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986 Forum - The Community for Porsche Boxster & Cayman Owners (http://986forum.com/forums/)
-   Boxster General Discussions (http://986forum.com/forums/boxster-general-discussions/)
-   -   2002 Boxster S No electrical Power at all (http://986forum.com/forums/boxster-general-discussions/83366-2002-boxster-s-no-electrical-power-all.html)

gtsracer 05-09-2023 03:23 PM
Quote:
Originally Posted by Bill Ladd (Post 653110)
Sounds like you have a multimeter. Start tracing voltage from the battery and move down the circuit path until you no longer have voltage.

Do you have 12.9v to ground at the line side of the kill switch? If so, do you have 12.9v to ground at the load side of the switch once you’ve turned it to the on position?

I’ve never been around a Boxster race car, but used to race a Formula Ford. Much simpler wiring scheme on a race car. This shouldn’t be too hard to figure out.
Seems like have 12.9.on all points

gtsracer 05-09-2023 03:24 PM
Quote:
Originally Posted by seningen (Post 653114)
Racer thing -- not on a street car.

Since you have a voltmeter -- start measuring voltages at different places around the car -- find an online wiring diagram to find the locations you should have 12v.

Especially check the connector at the front/top of the engine compartment. It sort of a jumped box from the engine area to the front of the car (and your battery). It's a simple post with a 10 or 13mm nut that could have worked its way loose.

There is also the fuse box behind/under the dash/glovebox (if you have one) that connects to the battery and has some master fuses there.

Mike
Will check some more. Did check 80 amp fuses, seems fine.

gtsracer 05-09-2023 03:26 PM
Quote:
Originally Posted by Gilles (Post 653117)
This fuse box has a rod that goes through the firewall and plugs with the + battery cable (with a funky connector), this is where the failure occurred on my 987.. just giggle the cable (at this connector) with the ignition on, to see if you regain power.
.
I looked for that funky connector but could not locate anything similar.
Will search more.

gtsracer 05-09-2023 03:31 PM
Quote:
Originally Posted by seningen (Post 653114)
Racer thing -- not on a street car.

Since you have a voltmeter -- start measuring voltages at different places around the car -- find an online wiring diagram to find the locations you should have 12v.

Especially check the connector at the front/top of the engine compartment. It sort of a jumped box from the engine area to the front of the car (and your battery). It's a simple post with a 10 or 13mm nut that could have worked its way loose.

There is also the fuse box behind/under the dash/glovebox (if you have one) that connects to the battery and has some master fuses there.

Mike
I checked that, looks good.
Just removed the alternator today, will be taking it to O'Reilly tomorrow. Found little cylindrical piece behind it on the top of the engine bay.http://986forum.com/forums/uploads02...1683675032.jpg
Have no idea what it is.

gtsracer 05-09-2023 03:34 PM
Here;s another photo of the piece.http://986forum.com/forums/uploads02...1683675284.jpg

Bill Ladd 05-09-2023 04:16 PM
Quote:
Originally Posted by gtsracer (Post 653122)
Seems like have 12.9.on all points
Keep going. Where does the switched 12 volts go from the switch? Keep following that 12 volts until it stops and that’s where your problem is

gtsracer 05-09-2023 06:23 PM
Quote:
Originally Posted by Bill Ladd (Post 653127)
Keep going. Where does the switched 12 volts go from the switch? Keep following that 12 volts until it stops and that’s where your problem is
Will do. Thank Bill and all 986 guys..

tcoradeschi 05-10-2023 02:18 AM
Quote:
Originally Posted by tcoradeschi (Post 653108)
Re-reading your original post, what’s this “kill switch” you refer to?
Quote:
Originally Posted by seningen (Post 653114)
Racer thing -- not on a street car.
D’oh. Missed that completely

Starter986 05-10-2023 05:14 AM
Quote:
Originally Posted by gtsracer (Post 653126)

Don't lose that piece. That is for the alternator bracet. That piece will slip in a hole in the bracket, if correctly I remember/it's been a few years since I pulled my alternator).

The bottom or top bolt that holds the alternator in place will go through that piece.

Unless you're taaking the car to a mechanic... look at parts diagrams so YOU know what that piece is for. No biggy, just don't lose it. :cheers:

gtsracer 05-10-2023 07:15 AM
Quote:
Originally Posted by Starter986 (Post 653137)
Don't lose that piece. That is for the alternator bracet. That piece will slip in a hole in the bracket, if correctly I remember/it's been a few years since I pulled my alternator).

The bottom or top bolt that holds the alternator in place will go through that piece.

Unless you're taaking the car to a mechanic... look at parts diagrams so YOU know what that piece is for. No biggy, just don't lose it. :cheers:
But this one has no treads. I got the treaded piece I already hammered back to a normal position for the bolt to engage.

gtsracer 05-10-2023 07:18 AM
So, today I took the alternator for O'Reilly to test but apparently they are not able to test manual gearbox alternator due to the pulley being clutch type. Go figure...

seningen 05-10-2023 09:49 AM
Where do you have 12.9v? Where do you not?

I had a Spec Boxster that would not start -- but I got the display, but just crank and no fire.
Turned out I had the DME in fuel remap programming mode, by incorrectly sending a 5v signal to the DME.
This is unlikely you're issue.

Right now, if my battery is low-ish, I seem to have to cycle my kill switch a few times to get my display to come on, and thus be able to start my SPB. I monitor the voltage -- and it seems high enough so I'm not 100% sure why that is happening -- I have not diagnosed it any further -- but I plan to replace the battery (mini-ATV battery) before this race season.

Just a datapoint for you.

Mike

gtsracer 05-10-2023 11:41 AM
Quote:
Originally Posted by seningen (Post 653150)
Where do you have 12.9v? Where do you not?

I had a Spec Boxster that would not start -- but I got the display, but just crank and no fire.
Turned out I had the DME in fuel remap programming mode, by incorrectly sending a 5v signal to the DME.
This is unlikely you're issue.

Right now, if my battery is low-ish, I seem to have to cycle my kill switch a few times to get my display to come on, and thus be able to start my SPB. I monitor the voltage -- and it seems high enough so I'm not 100% sure why that is happening -- I have not diagnosed it any further -- but I plan to replace the battery (mini-ATV battery) before this race season.

Just a datapoint for you.

Mike
Appreciate your input Mike. I will be reinstalling the alternator after verify it's ok. Got the new voltage regulator but before changing it wanted to make sure the current one is bad. I hope it is bad.

Bill Ladd 05-15-2023 01:30 PM
@gtstacer - whenever you’ve found your issue, please post here to let us know. So often folks post for answers and then disappear. Thanks.

gtsracer 05-27-2023 07:48 PM
Quote:
Originally Posted by Bill Ladd (Post 653227)
@gtstacer - whenever you’ve found your issue, please post here to let us know. So often folks post for answers and then disappear. Thanks.
Have not found the cure yet. Replaced the alternator voltage regulator but did not help.
Had limited time to work on it. Will keep you all updated. Thanks for checking on me.

gtsracer 07-12-2023 06:16 PM
Solved
 
OK, everyone, found the problem. The issue was the defective kill switch, when checked power to the main fuses it was zero amp. Strange, because I thought that was first thing I checked but I guess not.
Connected positive with the main fuse wire and car started like a champ. Thank you all for the help.

Bill Ladd 07-13-2023 03:56 AM
Glad you got it sorted!


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