Reset check engine light

[JFP in PA]

If this has been going on for five years, I would say the problem is probably permanent, even if intermittent. Even force clearing it will not prevent it from registering as a "pending code" which would probably be enough to fail the car, as this code can lead to misfire events.

P1341 Camshaft Adjustment, Bank 1 – Below Limit

Potential causes:

– Short to ground

– Actuator faulty

– Open circuit in triggering wire

– Open circuit in B+ supply

None of these look like $7K repairs, even if the actuator needs to be replaced, and quite often we find dirt in the actuator assembly that is causing the problem.

[Homeoboxter]

Originally Posted by JFP in PA

If this has been going on for five years, I would say the problem is probably permanent, even if intermittent. Even force clearing it will not prevent it from registering as a "pending code" which would probably be enough to fail the car, as this code can lead to misfire events.

P1341 Camshaft Adjustment, Bank 1 – Below Limit

Potential causes:

– Short to ground

– Actuator faulty

– Open circuit in triggering wire

– Open circuit in B+ supply

None of these look like $7K repairs, even if the actuator needs to be replaced, and quite often we find dirt in the actuator assembly that is causing the problem.

If the actuator needs replacement the part alone is around $1000, plus typically they pull the engine for the job (although it`s doable without doing that). This is the Bay area, so I wouldn`t be surprised if it cost around 7k. What would it cost to replace the actuator in your shop? Just wondering. For the Poster perhaps it`s worth a trip to PA

[sfkjeld]

Originally Posted by Homeoboxter

If the actuator needs replacement the part alone is around $1000, plus typically they pull the engine for the job (although it`s doable without doing that). This is the Bay area, so I wouldn`t be surprised if it cost around 7k. What would it cost to replace the actuator in your shop? Just wondering. For the Poster perhaps it`s worth a trip to PA

I’ve done everything but tear down the top end. Which is what 3 of the top Bay Area Porsche shops concluded after checking out the car.

I guess I wasn’t clear tho. I am not looking to permanently clear the 1341. Just clear it long enough to pass smog. This is what the shop has been doing for me since 2019. I was even talked into an expensive oil additive, that’s how desperate I was. Frankly, I think they feel guilty for diagnosing the issue as ground wires, etc. which I spent in the neighborhood of $2000+ for with no improvement. So I am just thankful they have hung in there with me at all.

If there was a Durametric tool that could do this for me, I would buy one. Guessing they must be horrendously expensive tho.

The car really runs great and the CO2 and other smog numbers are great. So I have no reservations about driving the car.

[Homeoboxter]

Originally Posted by sfkjeld

If there was a Durametric tool that could do this for me, I would buy one. Guessing they must be horrendously expensive tho.

I`m not sure what you mean by "this", but any generic tool ($30 on Amazon) that is able to clear the codes and show the readiness monitors can be used to pass the smog test, IF the error code does not come back right away. Of course you need to know what to look for. Probably that`s what the shop did. They didn`t fix anything but they cleared the codes, drove the car until the readiness monitors finished but the error code did not re-occur (yet), and took the car to smog. If you know what to look for you can be sure the car will pass. If the code had come back immediately they would not have taken the car to smog. That`s my understanding.

[JFP in PA]

Originally Posted by Homeoboxter

If the actuator needs replacement the part alone is around $1000, plus typically they pull the engine for the job (although it`s doable without doing that). This is the Bay area, so I wouldn`t be surprised if it cost around 7k. What would it cost to replace the actuator in your shop? Just wondering. For the Poster perhaps it`s worth a trip to PA

It isn't always necessary to drop the engine to do one of these actuators. Realistically, it should probably come in as a $2500 - $3000 job IF the actuator needs to be replaced, which is not always the case. More commonly, this is a wiring issue, which is why the OBD II manual describes it in the manner noted.

[Homeoboxter]

Originally Posted by JFP in PA

It isn't always necessary to drop the engine to do one of these actuators. Realistically, it should probably come in as a $2500 - $3000 job IF the actuator needs to be replaced, which is not always the case. More commonly, this is a wiring issue, which is why the OBD II manual describes it in the manner noted.

That`s not too bad. I wonder what would a shop here charge for this job. Here everything is awfully expensive. A lot of cars end up in the junkyard because they don`t pass the smog test and it`s too expensive to get it fixed.