Engine Out - 996 Intake or Any Performance Mods I Should Consider Now?

[ike84]

Btw, the 996 tune is worthless without all the other mods. All the flash does is allow the computer to adjust to having a bigger MAF (which even by itself does nothing).

The hardware will cost $400ish for a genuine samtec unit, courtesy of Chinese pirates

The software is a different story. If you're good with pcs, it will cost you nothing but time and a quick trip to mega.nz. if not, the pirates will sell you a working clone but that ups the bill (I wanna say another $800).

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[nuvolari]

Originally Posted by ike84

Lari, I think your question about the longevity repairs is a very good question. If mine were out, there's a list of stuff I'd do just because. This is just my list but here goes

Replace the crankcase breather valve. It's a cheap part and may be responsible for most aos failures. 5 min with the engine out, 90 min with it still in.

Replace the cam wear pads. Not easy with the motor out, but damn near impossible with the motor in (and probably responsible for as much if not more heartache than the ims has ever caused)

Ims replacement... Im not going there

Replace spark plug tubes. Just do it. Again a 5 min job with engine out, royal pain with it in.

Get rid of all the **************** thermal padding in the engine bay and replace it with something respectable.

Some might suggest (depending on mileage) to dig into the top end and replace lifter springs. I forget the guy who detailed these issues (someone help me here - not raby or l&n, but a big Indy who does a lot of M96 work and has an awesome web page on this topic. I wanna say he's in Atlanta?). Not super common but I recall a thread detailing that issue.

Remove intake runners and paint them candy red....

I'll stop there.

Btw, I didn't say the intake mods weren't worthwhile. I have not dynoed mine but my LTFT run -17% on a stock 996 mk1 3.4 tune. If power is linear to fuel consumption (and my afrs are spot on), thats 250ish hp. THATS A VERY REAL POWER BUMP (and it does drive like it). If anyone has a stock 3.2 in SW Minnesota and wants to try a 0-100 sprint to test that out I'm certainly game .

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I already have all those parts ready to go in so I guess I did my homework. You're talking about Hoffman regarding the heads. I've spoken with him and seen some second hand info about things to do from him. I wish he was on here and posting info as he knows these M96 heads.

That's a nice bump for the 2.7. If MN weren't in another galaxy, I'd take you up on that sprint. Of course, that's assuming I get this mess back together. But I will....

I have spent a bunch of time researching lifter springs and from what I've read, it's mainly the lifters that fail. And they cause havoc when they fail. Of course they cost about $20 each. Yes, times 24, so it's a big investment. I've seen on youtube how you can take them apart and clean them but the jury's still out on whether this is beneficial or risky. Ha, pretty much the ongoing saga of our engines!

Thanks for the info; it's good to know I've covered most of the basic items to replace. As for IMSB, watch my Long Distance Rejuvenation thread for details as I've just received my new bearing from France, hint hint....

Originally Posted by ike84

Btw, the 996 tune is worthless without all the other mods. All the flash does is allow the computer to adjust to having a bigger MAF.

The hardware will cost $400ish for a genuine samtec unit, courtesy of Chinese pirates

The software is a different story. If you're good with pcs, it will cost you nothing but time and a quick trip to mega.nz. if not, the pirates will sell you a working clone but that ups the bill (I wanna say another $800).

Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk

Hmmm, sounds complex. It's strange the stock ECU can't compensate for the larger MAF.
I just bought my first PC to use with my Durametric. Unfortunately, I got scammed by the ebay seller of the Durametric; I bought and paid for a professional version and received an enthusiast version with one VIN left for $425! Bought from Jacob Kelso (lefco.jaco on eBay) in NJ so watch out if you buy from him.

That's a lot of work and trouble for the flash. And considering you have to do it for the larger MAF to work, I would have put more emphasis on the flash. Maybe Newart did it a different way and hopefully he will chime in about the specifics.

Out of my reach but still curious...

[ike84]

Originally Posted by nuvolari

I already have all those parts ready to go in so I guess I did my homework. You're talking about Hoffman regarding the heads. I've spoken with him and seen some second hand info about things to do from him. I wish he was on here and posting info as he knows these M96 heads.

That's a nice bump for the 2.7. If MN weren't in another galaxy, I'd take you up on that sprint. Of course, that's assuming I get this mess back together. But I will....

I have spent a bunch of time researching lifter springs and from what I've read, it's mainly the lifters that fail. And they cause havoc when they fail. Of course they cost about $20 each. Yes, times 24, so it's a big investment. I've seen on youtube how you can take them apart and clean them but the jury's still out on whether this is beneficial or risky. Ha, pretty much the ongoing saga of our engines!

Thanks for the info; it's good to know I've covered most of the basic items to replace. As for IMSB, watch my Long Distance Rejuvenation thread for details as I've just received my new bearing from France, hint hint....



Hmmm, sounds complex. It's strange the stock ECU can't compensate for the larger MAF.
I just bought my first PC to use with my Durametric. Unfortunately, I got scammed by the ebay seller of the Durametric; I bought and paid for a professional version and received an enthusiast version with one VIN left for $425! Bought from Jacob Kelso (lefco.jaco on eBay) in NJ so watch out if you buy from him.

That's a lot of work and trouble for the flash. And considering you have to do it for the larger MAF to work, I would have put more emphasis on the flash. Maybe Newart did it a different way and hopefully he will chime in about the specifics.

Out of my reach but still curious...

In his video (if I recall correctly) he said he had a dealer flash the 986 Spyder edition flash. I think that's for a 78mm TB housing iirc.

A 68mm (stock) TB has a surface area of 3629mmsq, while the 82mm TB has a surface area of 5278mmsq. That's an increase of nearly 50%. That doesn't necessarily mean you'll flow 50% more air, but you have to remember how MAF sensors work. The ECU is able to compensate for +/-20ish % in variables but the when closed loop operations have nbo2 and MAF readings so vastly out of concordance, the ecu cannot compensate. You WILL run lean to the point of detonation and your ecu will shut down into limp mode (yes, it has that).

Bottom line is that, as art said earlier, this is a system. It's all or none. The flash does nothing without the larger MAF and the larger MAF does nothing if you have a tiny ass TB and a horribly restrictive flow route. That's just the intake though. The exhaust is a joke. That's for another thread though.

In case you're scratching your head going "why the hell didnt Porsche think of these things?".... Well, they did. Look at the displacement to HP ratio of the 2.7, 3.2, and 3.4. They can't make a $40k boxster with similar power to the almighty 911, so they kneecapped the 986 by limiting the breathing. Look at guys who have done the 3.4 swap and then reinstalled the rest of the stock 986 intake - they only push out 250-260hp and then sit back and go "huh, what did I do wrong?".

There's method to this madness... You just have to understand where it all started.

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