2nd gear grind and popout

[bobaachaar]

Hi everyone

I know that 2nd gear problems are a common issue with the 6-speed in the 986s and it started to show itself a few months ago. I found that if I engage the shifter into 2nd gear with a little extra force, it wouldn't grind and would engage nicely. However, the issue has recently got much worse, to the point where I'm actually scared to engage the gear for fear of damage.

The issue is worst in a few situations:
1. When I accelerate hard in first up to between 5k-redline and then shift into 2nd, the gear doesn't engage and I get a horrible grinding. Putting my hand on the shifter, it feels like I'm trying to hold down an angry rabid badger.
2. When I'm downshifting from 3rd into 2nd at any speed, but especially at 35+ mph, where the revs in 2nd would be 3k+, the same issue happens; it doesn't engage and the badger rears its ugly head.
3. Sometimes when the gear does engage, for example if I shift into 2nd at low speed and it goes in, or if the 3rd to 2nd goes smoothly and it engages, when accelerating hard, the gear stick pops into neutral. It happens mostly when the revs climb over 3k, but it has popped out as low as <2k.

I guess my question is will the gbox detent kit do anything at this point or am I looking at a transmission removal and rebuild? I'm going to change the transmission fluid either this or next weekend and see if that helps, but I've got no real expectations for that.

Long post, so thanks in advance for helping

[husker boxster]

Others can reply about the engagement issue, but don't waste your time or resources changing the trans fluid. That horse is way out of the barn for a flush to make a difference.

I had an issue with my 08 CSS downshifting from 3 to 2. It would grind. While I had the engine out to repair bore scoring, I sent my trans to a shop in AZ to get the 2nd gear synchro replaced. It was shot. As he dug further into the trans, he found a tooth on the pinion gear was chipped and then he found the 3rd & 4th gear synchros were past their prime. I ended up buying a reman trans. Hope you have better luck with your repair.

Trans guy told me to replace the trans fluid every 10K mi. I do 2-3 DEs / yr. 10K mi might be a bit of overkill, I'm going to do 15K but that's way earlier than the 50K it had before I changed it the 1st time.

[JZeke]

Sounds like you're due for a 2nd gear rebuild.

Yea I know, this isn't helpful you might be thinking! What cheap options are there instead? Well, I bought what I thought was a fine, well-maintained higher miles '03 S for a decent price. Passed PPI in the heat of summer with flying colors. Except that heat was masking a terrible secret: 2nd gear was on its way out.

I had all your symptoms, and they only got worse as temps dropped and I drove the car more. Got to the point where I was skip-shifting from 1st to 3rd every drive. Combined with a leaking seal where the shifter cable/pivot enters the gearbox (which wasn't present at purchase since the car had sat for too long) I knew something had to be done. Took it to one local St Louis area shop who didn't even comment on it, then found a better one who took the box off and concluded it needed to go to GBox for a 2nd gear rebuild.

$5300 later ($440 shipping to/from STL to GBox in Erie CO) and I have a fresh 'box with:

• New 2nd Gear
• New 1-2 Shift Sleeve
• New Pinion Cone Ring
• Shift Arm Repair Kit (PO must've ham-fisted the heck out of the gear!)
• Gbox Updated Detent Kit
• New Gaskets/Seals/Hardware (bolts etc)

Today the car drives well, but 2nd is stiff when cold and can't be rushed but when warm is buttery smooth. I hate to say it but your needs are probably similar, but you may be lucky and only need the 2nd gear and associated parts on the shaft. Figure closer to $3800 if that's the case. Mine needed love.

[JZeke]

Originally Posted by husker boxster

Others can reply about the engagement issue, but don't waste your time or resources changing the trans fluid. That horse is way out of the barn for a flush to make a difference.

I had an issue with my 08 CSS downshifting from 3 to 2. It would grind. While I had the engine out to repair bore scoring, I sent my trans to a shop in AZ to get the 2nd gear synchro replaced. It was shot. As he dug further into the trans, he found a tooth on the pinion gear was chipped and then he found the 3rd & 4th gear synchros were past their prime. I ended up buying a reman trans. Hope you have better luck with your repair.

Trans guy told me to replace the trans fluid every 10K mi. I do 2-3 DEs / yr. 10K mi might be a bit of overkill, I'm going to do 15K but that's way earlier than the 50K it had before I changed it the 1st time.

This is good to know, I will plan on trans changes regularly. I assume using the Porsche Shell OEM stuff? I've read that Redline and other brands don't play well with the OEM parts.

[husker boxster]

Originally Posted by JZeke

This is good to know, I will plan on trans changes regularly. I assume using the Porsche Shell OEM stuff? I've read that Redline and other brands don't play well with the OEM parts.

The guy in AZ (don't like calling him the trans guy) recommended Amzoil. That's what I used during break in and for the 2nd fill. Worked smooth in warm weather but I have to arm wrestle with it this winter. Will be going back to Mobil 1 (factory fluid) for next fill. I also think my shifter is slanted a tad to the right, which in conjunction with the stiff oil makes shifting into reverse quite the chore when cold. When the weather warms up I'll tear the console apart and use my cable shifter alignment tool to square it up.

I don't know all the specifics but other brands can have additives (or be missing them) that cause issues with Porsche trans. If JFP is watching this thread, he may want to chime in. I figure going back to requirements eliminates any potential issues.

[bobaachaar]

Originally Posted by JZeke

Sounds like you're due for a 2nd gear rebuild.

Yea I know, this isn't helpful you might be thinking! What cheap options are there instead? Well, I bought what I thought was a fine, well-maintained higher miles '03 S for a decent price. Passed PPI in the heat of summer with flying colors. Except that heat was masking a terrible secret: 2nd gear was on its way out.

I had all your symptoms, and they only got worse as temps dropped and I drove the car more. Got to the point where I was skip-shifting from 1st to 3rd every drive. Combined with a leaking seal where the shifter cable/pivot enters the gearbox (which wasn't present at purchase since the car had sat for too long) I knew something had to be done. Took it to one local St Louis area shop who didn't even comment on it, then found a better one who took the box off and concluded it needed to go to GBox for a 2nd gear rebuild.

$5300 later ($440 shipping to/from STL to GBox in Erie CO) and I have a fresh 'box with:

• New 2nd Gear
• New 1-2 Shift Sleeve
• New Pinion Cone Ring
• Shift Arm Repair Kit (PO must've ham-fisted the heck out of the gear!)
• Gbox Updated Detent Kit
• New Gaskets/Seals/Hardware (bolts etc)

Today the car drives well, but 2nd is stiff when cold and can't be rushed but when warm is buttery smooth. I hate to say it but your needs are probably similar, but you may be lucky and only need the 2nd gear and associated parts on the shaft. Figure closer to $3800 if that's the case. Mine needed love.

did some research. looks like a used trans is cheaper than a rebuild. what can i do when i put it in to prevent this from happening again?