How to do IMS bearing job without locking crankshaft?

[Yuta]

Hi all,

I have an 02 986 Boxster. I have been thinking of doing IMS bearing job myself. I just found out today that my front crankshaft pulley is an aftermarket one, which has no dedicated hole for locking crankshaft at TDC. This is a devastating news! Any idea how to proceed the IMS bearing replacement job without locking crankshaft??

[BoxsterSteve]

it would be a fool's errand to do that job without locking down the crank.
Source an OE pulley and install it for the IMSR procedure and put your aftermarket unit back on when done.

[78F350]

I have a crank pulley or two laying around my garage. If you have a U.S. address, I can loan one to you or sell it. Still, I expect there's a way to do it with the aftermarket pulley - I just don't know what it is.

[Gilles]

I was in the same situation and instead f removing the front pulley I decided to lock the crankshaft at the flywheel side.
They sell small flywheel locks that bolt into the bell housing and have teeth that locks into the flywheel outer ring (after you set the crank at TDC...)
.

PS: I would definitely lock the crank (@ TDC) and lock the cams before removing the chain tensioners is not worth taking a chance.

[tonythetiger]

To Gilles point, you can lock the crank on the flywheel side, just make sure it’s TDC. You need to lock the cam as well, don’t trust locking the ims shaft. Make sure you have replacement cam seals, and poke a hole in the center of old seal to pull it out. There is a hole in the metal support there. (My first time was frustrating pulling the seal because I didn’t know that and was prying from the edge)
Be gentle, replace RMS and freeze bearing plus gently heat the block with propane, not oxy/acetylene when putting in new. They slide right in.


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[Yuta]

Originally Posted by Gilles

I was in the same situation and instead f removing the front pulley I decided to lock the crankshaft at the flywheel side.
They sell small flywheel locks that bolt into the bell housing and have teeth that locks into the flywheel outer ring (after you set the crank at TDC...)
.

PS: I would definitely lock the crank (@ TDC) and lock the cams before removing the chain tensioners is not worth taking a chance.

I was thinking of the same thing. However, when you replace IMS bearing, the flywheel is already off. So locking flywheel is not going to work... Have to think of a way to lock the flywheel flange of crankshaft...I'm thinking of bolting 2 flat bars on flywheel flange to bell housing to lock the crankshaft down.... Just an idea...hope it's gonna work...
the

[piper6909]

Originally Posted by Yuta

I was thinking of the same thing. However, when you replace IMS bearing, the flywheel is already off. So locking flywheel is not going to work... Have to think of a way to lock the flywheel flange of crankshaft...I'm thinking of bolting 2 flat bars on flywheel flange to bell housing to lock the crankshaft down.... Just an idea...hope it's gonna work...
the

I don't think that set-up would stop it from moving. remember, even the slightest movement is enough to upset the timing.

If you want to try that route, I'd suggest an L-shaped flat bar, something like a faming square where you can bolt it to, say, A, crank and C. Then another for E, crank and G. This way, it's well-triangulated so it can't rotate.

[Yuta]

Originally Posted by piper6909

I don't think that set-up would stop it from moving. remember, even the slightest movement is enough to upset the timing.

If you want to try that route, I'd suggest an L-shaped flat bar, something like a faming square where you can bolt it to, say, A, crank and C. Then another for E, crank and G. This way, it's well-triangulated so it can't rotate.

Good point. I thinking I'm going to do the following

[tonythetiger]

True, true. The bar has to reach 2 bolt points, either across or an el.


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