Painting recommendations

[flmont]

AzLvr...what brand of paint/clear are you using, I may have to do the same.?? Thanks frank

[azlvr]

Originally Posted by flmont

AzLvr...what brand of paint/clear are you using, I may have to do the same.?? Thanks frank

RM Diamont which is a sister to Glasurit and has very close color match at around $250qt. Clear is Tamco Euro high solids 2104 at $175 gal kit that you can buy direct, 3 coats. A lot of people luv Tamco.

[Qingdao]

EuroChem is a good starter paint. You can hammer on the clear and its really forgiving. Cheap too. A single car kit of HS paint is about $400. Which is pretty average.

BUT I feel like EuroChem is kind of a soft paint. It takes forever to fully cure IMPO.


I like the Limco finish I'm using on my box. I sprayed my RX7 with it and I can attest to the LC4000 limco clear being some tough stuff. I can almost hose my car off with gasoline. LOL Also about 4 years on that paint job and I've only really needed to buff it once.

[Seal1968]

Limco is a great DIY'er brand...decent quality.

I've used it many times - very reasonably priced. I just did my son's A4...front fenders, rear quarters, trunk, hood and front bumper cover. $400 in materials. BC/CC x3 each. Wet sanded and buffed. Brilliant black...such an awesome colour when shiny.

The major cost for a paint job is the labour to prep for paint.

Options:

If you ask around I'm sure you can find a painter who works for cash on the side and will produce a great result. Check with a custom shop who works on cool muscle cars...they'll know someone.

I've also seen Maaco jobs turn out decent, with a wet sand and buff. Remember, you can pre-sand your car for Maaco and ensure decent prep has been done, and remove parts for them. I assume if you're in the south there's no rust to repair, so a pretty easy prep job really. Don't be afraid to tackle it yourself.

By the way, just how bad is your paint? Clear faded/peeling clearcoat? You can fix that quite easily if so. There's 2K clear in rattle can that you can re-clear issues. Works like a charm...kind of like "cut in clear" used for touch ups by the pros.

Post up some pics.

[azlvr]

Originally Posted by Seal1968

Limco is a great DIY'er brand...decent quality.

I've used it many times - very reasonably priced. I just did my son's A4...front fenders, rear quarters, trunk, hood and front bumper cover. $400 in materials. BC/CC x3 each. Wet sanded and buffed. Brilliant black...such an awesome colour when shiny.

The major cost for a paint job is the labour to prep for paint.

Options:

If you ask around I'm sure you can find a painter who works for cash on the side and will produce a great result. Check with a custom shop who works on cool muscle cars...they'll know someone.

I've also seen Maaco jobs turn out decent, with a wet sand and buff. Remember, you can pre-sand your car for Maaco and ensure decent prep has been done, and remove parts for them. I assume if you're in the south there's no rust to repair, so a pretty easy prep job really. Don't be afraid to tackle it yourself.

By the way, just how bad is your paint? Clear faded/peeling clearcoat? You can fix that quite easily if so. There's 2K clear in rattle can that you can re-clear issues. Works like a charm...kind of like "cut in clear" used for touch ups by the pros.

Post up some pics.

Limco is also part of the BASF family only the next step below. Glasurit, RM, Limco, Norbin. Glasurit clear is about $750 a gallon kit but is good stuff, Tamco is a comparable product using fine German resins at a much lower price from a family owned company.

[Qingdao]

Originally Posted by azlvr

Limco is also part of the BASF family only the next step below. Glasurit, RM, Limco, Norbin. Glasurit clear is about $750 a gallon kit but is good stuff, Tamco is a comparable product using fine German resins at a much lower price from a family owned company.

I might try Tamco next go round. How is the chemical resistance of their clear? That's all I really care about in a paint.


OP: What color are you painting your car? White?? or the dreaded black?? I wouldn't take my car to Maaco for a black paint job; white no problems (you can hide all kinds of mistakes in white finish).

[986Chick]

Originally Posted by Qingdao

OP: What color are you painting your car? White?? or the dreaded black?? I wouldn't take my car to Maaco for a black paint job; white no problems (you can hide all kinds of mistakes in white finish).

Ocean Jade Metallic.

[azlvr]

Originally Posted by Qingdao

I might try Tamco next go round. How is the chemical resistance of their clear? That's all I really care about in a paint.


OP: What color are you painting your car? White?? or the dreaded black?? I wouldn't take my car to Maaco for a black paint job; white no problems (you can hide all kinds of mistakes in white finish).

Excellent they compare it to Glasurit only much cheaper. Lapis Blue, dark blue metallic.

[Seal1968]

If you want an inexpensive and quick repair, and it's just the clear coming off you can sand the top layers with 400 wet, then re-clear. No need to break through the basecoat into the primer layer and have to re-spray the entire panel. When sanding the clear it will be a white residue...if you see colour on the sandpaper, you're into the basecoat.

To re-clear you can get 2K clear coat in a rattle can - it has the activator in it, and the UV protection needed. Cans of the 2K clear are @ $35 each.

There's a ton of DIY clearcoat repair videos on YT if you want to tackle this project.

If you feel this above your skill level, a body shop can blow in your hood and top lid easy. They will be able to match the paint codes. Even a Maaco shop could do this for you.

[Qingdao]

Originally Posted by Seal1968

If you want an inexpensive and quick repair, and it's just the clear coming off you can sand the top layers with 400 wet, then re-clear. No need to break through the basecoat into the primer layer and have to re-spray the entire panel. When sanding the clear it will be a white residue...if you see colour on the sandpaper, you're into the basecoat.

To re-clear you can get 2K clear coat in a rattle can - it has the activator in it, and the UV protection needed. Cans of the 2K clear are @ $35 each.

There's a ton of DIY clearcoat repair videos on YT if you want to tackle this project.

If you feel this above your skill level, a body shop can blow in your hood and top lid easy. They will be able to match the paint codes. Even a Maaco shop could do this for you.

Its a metallic flake paint. Any sanding in the base coat will stand out like a sore thumb.

If you did do this you'd need to put on a control coat of base then re-clear, but at that point its better to just do the normal two base coats and one control coat.