Windows locks not working

[JP Summers]

Similar problems here. Parked for winter w/ battery Maintainer. Kid unplugged it when he was snow blowing. Battery went dead. I recharged the battery, reconnected to the maintainer. Checks out Good, 12.5v. Locks & Windows don't work.
Windows:
-switches don't work (relays in doors click)
-both inner & outer handles don't work (relays in doors click)
-top retract windows don't move, top retracts/extends normally (relays in doors click)

Locks:
-Key Lock works, locks both doors, but does not activate anti-theft
-dash switch doesn't work
-Fob locking- Locks, Unlocks, Beep Beep

I replaced the Immobilizer last year with one from ECU Doctors and had them make me a spare. The Immobilizer is fine. Fuses C3 & D1 are OK.

FINISHED REPAIRED!!!!

Windows: Corroded Power Supply Wire in Left A-Pillar. Seized Motor in Right Door.

Locks: Replaced w/ ElCheapo $30 VW Latches from Amazon. Part# 3B1837016A -RIGHT DOOR, 3B1837015A - LEFT DOOR. This is ONLY for the '97 Model as it has different latches than other model years. Locks & sets Alarm w/ Key, unlocks deactivates alarm w/ Fob. That's good enough for now.

[JP Summers]

Update:

Windows are working as advertised. Courtesy Drop & Raise from Key, drop to open doors or top and switches work.
Problems:
Left A-Pillar had the Gray/Red Wire corroded from both terminal Blocks. Rewired, Resealed.
Right Motor was seized. Removed, Lubricated, applied power, works.
Both Regulators are fine. Lubricated and working properly.

Locks are no longer a "big" Issue. They mostly work. Locks only w/ Key in Door, also sets Alarm & Locks Fuel Door. Unlocks and disable Alarm w/ Fob.

Fix:
Cheap Amazon $30 Latches for VW, Audi, Seat, etc. Part# 3B1837016A - RIGHT SIDE, Part# 3B1837015A - LEFT SIDE THIS IS FOR '97 MODEL YEAR ONLY!!! as it has a different latch set than any other year.

[Noel Brahimi]

It's great that you have found a solution for the lock issues by purchasing cheap latches from Amazon. It's important to note that the part numbers you provided, 3B1837016A for the right side and 3B1837015A for the left side, are specific to the 1997 model year and will not work for other years. It's always good to double-check the part number before purchasing with Stratford locksmith.

[Tweetdriver63]

I know this is an old thread, but I'm reviving it instead of making a new one.

My car was parked outside for the last week (SE Tennessee) and there were some heavy rains from the Hurricane Helene. When I got back to it, I found that the remote locking/unlocking doesn't work, and gives two immediate beeps when the button is pushed. The rear trunk carpet was wet (not soaked) and a few small puddles under it. The carpet under the driver's seat is also wet. I suspect a drain got clogged or at least overwhelmed.

My car has a history of getting water on that floor a few years ago that killed the immobilizer. I have a set off another car that I got on eBay, and I put the immobilizer in a waterproof box. Drains were all cleaned back then, and the rear driver's side drain also had a leak somewhere in it such that, even when clean, some of the water made its way into the floor somehow. A drain hole was installed in the floorboard as an extra precaution.

Current symptoms:
Windows do not work using the buttons, and do not lower when the roof is lowered/raised.
Windows DO lower as they're supposed to when the doors are openend/closed.
Convertible top works fine.
Doors do not lock/unlock using remote. Pushing the button causes double alarm horn beep.

(I already had the double beep symptom due to the fuel filler door lock not working, but that double beep sounded maybe 10 seconds after locking the doors with the remote. It is now immediately when the button is pushed.)

Just looking for any thoughts before I proceed with anything other than drying the car out.

EDIT: I checked all the fuses related to these issues. What I found is that the C3 fuse was blown. Also, there was a 10a fuse in that spot when the diagram calls for a 15a. I tried replacing the fuse, but it blows the new fuse as soon as contact is made.
Also, I wasn't accurate describing the wetness. It isn't nearly as wet as I said. Nothing more than some dampness, and some condensation on the underside of the rear trunk lid.
Finally, one thing I forgot to mention is that not long ago, I had an issue with the windows. They weren't lowering when the top was raised/lowered, and there was some noise and sticking in the driver's side window when raising/lowering it. Those things all went away after a very short time (only happened on one drive). Now I'm thinking that was just the first symptom of whatever electrical issue is causing this, and it seems likely to be something to do with that driver's side window.