Clunk Clunk Cluck silence - No Gears | WHAT BROKE?
 

Need a little help here Gentlemen...

New to 986forum too.

1999 Boxster, 53,000 miles, White.

The last few days I've felt a power loss / lag when releasing the clutch and the amount of pedal with torque seemed gradually less.

Yesterday morning, I was driving in 1st and 2nd leaving a very long parking lot and I came to a stop sign and gently let off in 1st and a very loud CLANK CLANK CLANK with a rotatory repetition began. Something big broke.

I made it 50 feet and it seems as there was no second gear. Being 300 yards from home, I hoped to limp her home in 1st gear. If I was very gentle with just a few RPMS there was no VERY LOUD CLANKING. Just a small bit of travel in the clutch petal where I still had power to the wheels.

I made it about 100 feet and then it stopped and 1st gear was gone. I checked second gear and I'm fairly sure that the clutch has no actuation. And I rolled her home.

WHAT Broke?

I'm a fair mechanic, I have all the tools and I love this car. I live in Palm Beach so the weather is good for the repairs and there is an endless line of blonde girls that want a "ride" - Please advise.

Thank you
Jeff

CV Joint exploded. It happened to me after I had the car a week with 90K on it.

It's either a CV joint, driveshaft, or clutch. It's possible that the transmission broke, but not likely.

The CV joint came to mind first but if the clutch pedal feels iffy could be a broken fork (throw out bearing) as well.

The CV joint is very easy to check (visually) but the fork it's a bit more complicated as you will have to remove the gearbox..

Hmm... A bit more.
 

The car has been babied. Literally wiped with diapers.

I've been good to the car less a few times I over revved past the red line.

On Tuesday I raced an R8 off the line (and have only done this type of driving a handful of times) and I could feel the shifting was not perfect and there was some slop. Where i revved past the red line as the clutch pedal was not as quick as it needed to be.

The clutch pedal has been tight although actuation seems as it was only at the end of the pedal travel. To the point it's easy to cough out the car in first gear and has happened once a week for the last few months.

The clanking was rotary. Very very loud metal banging on a 1 to 1.5 second interval with about 3 very loud clanks.

I would adjust to quiet the car attempting to limp her home. As first gear was making a ruckus with the clanking I tried second gear and I'm fairly sure I had nothing. When I would rev over 1500rpm ish the clanking started.

About 12 clanks total and then silence. First gear was gone and there is no mechanical connection today.

I have not looked at or under as it is... awkward, raining today and you guys (and gals) know where I should start...



http://986forum.com/forums/uploads02/11576174747.jpg

Broken shift linkage? Doesnt really explain the bang though...

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk

These cars have a duel-mass flywheel your issue may be with it.
I always go with simplest things first and work my way up step by step.
So check the things mentioned by the other posters first.
Like things that could cause the clanging noise.
CV joint,axles and so on.

Sure sounds like clutch- time to me.
Check the easy stuff first, but I think you'll be dropping that gearbox. I bet when you do, little pieces of clutch rain out on ya.

Sent from my SM-G970U using Tapatalk

This is what it sounded like when my axle was snapped in two pieces after being hit on the race track. You'll hear the grinding sound at 1:15 into the video (just shortly after my cussing at the other driver for hitting me! :rolleyes:.

Take a look under the rear end and grab each drive shaft and wiggle to see if there is any slop. If its a drive shaft, there will be LOTS of slop.

<iframe width="560" height="315" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/tBGkP7V8RSY" frameborder="0" allow="accelerometer; autoplay; encrypted-media; gyroscope; picture-in-picture" allowfullscreen></iframe>

http://986forum.com/forums/uploads02...1567571794.jpg

Send them to Pittsburgh.

with a broken CV you wouldn't have any drive. so maybe it partially broke and then expired upon stopping. Could potentially be a shift fork or clutch disk also.

Gotta take a look and start crossing out potential culprits

No problem. When I've worn them out too. (:

Thank you Everybody. I'll start the investigation on Tuesday the 17th! I'm headed out of town for a few days (to see more blonde girls... with a RS2).

I'm really hoping it's something like the axle. It's big and heavy metal clank center under the car. I suspect it may be the flywheel or that size as the amount of vehicle travel before the sound was repeated was radial and geared to be about 5 plus inches and it rotating and hitting something that was noting going to to move. Hardened steel over 1/2 inch thick Clanking/Banging.

The car is 20 years old and I've had a chance to prove her a bit around Palm Beach and it's done great.

I'll update next week! Thank you again. Way cool.

That's a huge ****************ing picture. :rolleyes:

You know if you use your phone the pics should be a size your used to. +/- 3 inches? [emoji6]

Just kidding Starter. As a new guy, am I allowed to make jokes?

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk

Ha Ha!. You are granted joking privileges. I love me a good sense of humor.

Welcome!!

If it was a drive shaft or CV joint, wouldn't he still be able to shift gears with the clutch feeling normal, just no power to the wheels. Sounds like clutch/flywheel/throw out bearing issue.

That's what I've been saying too.

Sent from my SM-G970U using Tapatalk

THE BAD - Please Advise
 

Here we go.

I would greatly appreciate a head up.

What is this?
Where can I get the parts the cheapest?
A video link to the repair.

I have the tools and I need to park this in front of a serious yacht in like 7 days.

Gentlemen, please advise. Thank youhttp://986forum.com/forums/uploads02/1a1576601515.jpg

That's the CV Joint where it attaches to the trans

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5V1uAoFl0qw <-- not a really in depth video but you should be able to find something similar.

http://986forum.com/forums/performance-technical-chat/60516-cv-axle-removal-help.html

What you are looking at is the inner joint cover.

986Eve,

Actually you have great news :-)

Because.. the CV Joint is way cheaper than replacing a broken flywheel, clutch plate etc...

I would recommend a used half shaft from Woody (actually both sides), as the other side has the same mileage...

Clean the treads very well and install the bolts with a few drops of Locktite blue and you should be clear to chase the Chiquitas again :-)

@Gilles - I was gong to ask that question, what caused that to come apart? It does look like one of the bolts may have snapped off in the plate there.

And yes @986Eve - good news considering the other alternatives.

I'd just slap in a low mile used axle and stuff it in there. new bolts obviously and make sure the holes on the flange are good. Seems to be the best option.

Thank you TRP and Gilles.

I zoomed the photos and it looks as only one of the bolts is sheared/broken. You'll see the threaded cover plate #5 in the photo.

How did the other bolts come out? And were they loose when I'm blowing past Audis on I-95? :/

Respectfully I bought this from the most particular owner but I have not inspected the vehicle. I didn't even have to vacuum it.

With the hexagonal connection to the transmission... does that look okay?

The meal clunking noise was the cover shredding in a few rotations.

HOW ABOUT BEST REPLACEMENT PART / PART NUMBERS? Links?

I'd like to BUY THIS TODAY and HAVE IT HERE TOMORROW or Friday at the latest. HOW ABOUT LOCALLY here in PALM BEACH or Miami?

I normally buy everything from Rock Auto for Fords and Chrysler's...http://986forum.com/forums/uploads02/1b1576613799.jpg

Lastly, I hope there is no damage inside the transmission/clutch and my problems are limited to the axle.

Please advise and thank you.

She said something similar...:)

986, Ask Woody (search Woody) for a pair of used drive shafts..

Looks like the bolts all came loose.
When you bolt everything back together use a torque wrench and torque to specs.
if you need the torque spec. holler I will look it up for you

You can certainly do as suggested and just replace the axle, but looking at that flange it appears to have been hammered pretty badly. Maybe you can dremel the burrs off and get a good fit but the outer ridge that centers the axle flange will never be the same. Be sure to use blue loctite and retorque in 500 miles.

I use loctite on these bolts. I don't really care what color 'cuz heat will take care of whatever.

I'm still confused about the odd clutch behavior you were experiencing. This had nothing to do with that.

Sent from my SM-G970U using Tapatalk

From the photo it looks like there is one broken bolt... the 5 others must have backed out and the last one broke. The flange near what I take to be a broken bolt is messed up as if the shaft was banging around in that area before the bolt broke. If the threads in the bolt holes are OK and if the flange does not prevent the shaft from properly seating you may be able to put it back together with NEW bolts and be on your way.

;)


.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.

Yeah, the clutch may need adjusting as well.

There is no adjustment on your clutch.

Sent from my SM-G970U using Tapatalk

Thank you! I'd like to replace the inner joint cover. And the 6 bolts.

Does anyone know the fastest and cheapest place to order the cover?

Update!
 

Thank you Grant and Well said. 2 of the bolts are broken/warped. I'm inspecting the receiving plate that mounts to the transmission. and soon removing the remaining bolt.

There is a friction/shield piece that tore up. Can I operate with out it?

In the next hour or so I will know if the CV receiving mount will be usable. I'm concerned about the treads. I'd really like to put a new one on.

The drive shaft is in very good condition from the outside. Much nicer than what I could get used.

BLue62, Kindly, what is the torque spec for those bolts?

M8 bolts -39 N/m (29ft-lb.)
M10 bolts -81 N/m (60ft-lb.)

I believe in your first post you stated the car was a 1999 if so it should have
M8 bolts. I gave both specs. just in case;)

I second the loctite. Mine came loose a couple days. Even after being torqued to spec (according to my crappy torque wrench at least).

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk

Update!
 

Thank you everyone for your help and suggestions.

Turns out this was a NEW axle that had not been properly bolted in and NO thread locker.

Two of the bolts were sheared off and 5 were bent in such they were very difficult to get out. I removed the bolts (2-3 hours), cleaned up the threads on the receiving mount.

The broken bolt was a ********************. It was bent and broken. Access mostly. I drilled out the bolt but widened the hole in such the threads are no good.

I replaced all of the bolts with NEW bolts and tons of blue lock tight. I pickup up 3 normal nuts and 3 metal locking nuts hoping that one would fit the broken backside. Its right on the line and not quite. Suggestions?

I also bought 2 longer bolts and they are too close to hitting the back side of the casing. But could be ground down. I'm considering adding a slightly longer bolt and retaining it with a nut in the back. All Lock tight. Considerations?

All in all. She went back together quite well and it was a quick jump start lesson on the Boxster.

Thank you!