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Old 12-17-2019, 08:37 AM   #21
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Originally Posted by 986Eve View Post
Here we go. I would greatly appreciate a head up.
What is this? Gentlemen, please advise. Thank
986Eve,

Actually you have great news :-)

Because.. the CV Joint is way cheaper than replacing a broken flywheel, clutch plate etc...

I would recommend a used half shaft from Woody (actually both sides), as the other side has the same mileage...

Clean the treads very well and install the bolts with a few drops of Locktite blue and you should be clear to chase the Chiquitas again :-)

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Old 12-17-2019, 09:32 AM   #22
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@Gilles - I was gong to ask that question, what caused that to come apart? It does look like one of the bolts may have snapped off in the plate there.

And yes @986Eve - good news considering the other alternatives.
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Old 12-17-2019, 11:16 AM   #23
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I'd just slap in a low mile used axle and stuff it in there. new bolts obviously and make sure the holes on the flange are good. Seems to be the best option.
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Old 12-17-2019, 11:17 AM   #24
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Thank you TRP and Gilles.

I zoomed the photos and it looks as only one of the bolts is sheared/broken. You'll see the threaded cover plate #5 in the photo.

How did the other bolts come out? And were they loose when I'm blowing past Audis on I-95? :/

Respectfully I bought this from the most particular owner but I have not inspected the vehicle. I didn't even have to vacuum it.

With the hexagonal connection to the transmission... does that look okay?

The meal clunking noise was the cover shredding in a few rotations.

HOW ABOUT BEST REPLACEMENT PART / PART NUMBERS? Links?

I'd like to BUY THIS TODAY and HAVE IT HERE TOMORROW or Friday at the latest. HOW ABOUT LOCALLY here in PALM BEACH or Miami?

I normally buy everything from Rock Auto for Fords and Chrysler's...

Lastly, I hope there is no damage inside the transmission/clutch and my problems are limited to the axle.

Please advise and thank you.

Last edited by 986Eve; 12-17-2019 at 11:30 AM.
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Old 12-17-2019, 11:22 AM   #25
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That's a huge ****************ing picture.
She said something similar...
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Old 12-17-2019, 12:37 PM   #26
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HOW ABOUT BEST REPLACEMENT PART / PART NUMBERS? Links?
986, Ask Woody (search Woody) for a pair of used drive shafts..
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Old 12-17-2019, 04:05 PM   #27
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Originally Posted by 986Eve View Post
Here we go.

I would greatly appreciate a head up.

What is this?
Where can I get the parts the cheapest?
A video link to the repair.

I have the tools and I need to park this in front of a serious yacht in like 7 days.

Gentlemen, please advise. Thank you

Looks like the bolts all came loose.
When you bolt everything back together use a torque wrench and torque to specs.
if you need the torque spec. holler I will look it up for you

Last edited by blue62; 12-17-2019 at 04:17 PM.
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Old 12-17-2019, 06:41 PM   #28
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You can certainly do as suggested and just replace the axle, but looking at that flange it appears to have been hammered pretty badly. Maybe you can dremel the burrs off and get a good fit but the outer ridge that centers the axle flange will never be the same. Be sure to use blue loctite and retorque in 500 miles.
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Old 12-17-2019, 08:18 PM   #29
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I use loctite on these bolts. I don't really care what color 'cuz heat will take care of whatever.

I'm still confused about the odd clutch behavior you were experiencing. This had nothing to do with that.

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Old 12-17-2019, 09:19 PM   #30
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From the photo it looks like there is one broken bolt... the 5 others must have backed out and the last one broke. The flange near what I take to be a broken bolt is messed up as if the shaft was banging around in that area before the bolt broke. If the threads in the bolt holes are OK and if the flange does not prevent the shaft from properly seating you may be able to put it back together with NEW bolts and be on your way.
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Old 12-18-2019, 04:42 AM   #31
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she said something similar...



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Old 12-18-2019, 09:24 AM   #32
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I use loctite on these bolts. I don't really care what color 'cuz heat will take care of whatever.

I'm still confused about the odd clutch behavior you were experiencing. This had nothing to do with that.

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Yeah, the clutch may need adjusting as well.
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Old 12-18-2019, 10:40 AM   #33
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Yeah, the clutch may need adjusting as well.
There is no adjustment on your clutch.

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Old 12-19-2019, 01:14 PM   #34
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Originally Posted by TRP View Post
That's the CV Joint where it attaches to the trans

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5V1uAoFl0qw <-- not a really in depth video but you should be able to find something similar.

CV Axle Removal Help

What you are looking at is the inner joint cover.
Thank you! I'd like to replace the inner joint cover. And the 6 bolts.

Does anyone know the fastest and cheapest place to order the cover?
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Old 12-20-2019, 05:08 AM   #35
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Update!

Quote:
Originally Posted by elgyqc View Post
From the photo it looks like there is one broken bolt... the 5 others must have backed out and the last one broke. The flange near what I take to be a broken bolt is messed up as if the shaft was banging around in that area before the bolt broke. If the threads in the bolt holes are OK and if the flange does not prevent the shaft from properly seating you may be able to put it back together with NEW bolts and be on your way.
Thank you Grant and Well said. 2 of the bolts are broken/warped. I'm inspecting the receiving plate that mounts to the transmission. and soon removing the remaining bolt.

There is a friction/shield piece that tore up. Can I operate with out it?

In the next hour or so I will know if the CV receiving mount will be usable. I'm concerned about the treads. I'd really like to put a new one on.

The drive shaft is in very good condition from the outside. Much nicer than what I could get used.
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Old 12-20-2019, 05:17 AM   #36
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Looks like the bolts all came loose.
When you bolt everything back together use a torque wrench and torque to specs.
if you need the torque spec. holler I will look it up for you
BLue62, Kindly, what is the torque spec for those bolts?
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Old 12-20-2019, 09:25 AM   #37
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BLue62, Kindly, what is the torque spec for those bolts?
M8 bolts -39 N/m (29ft-lb.)
M10 bolts -81 N/m (60ft-lb.)

I believe in your first post you stated the car was a 1999 if so it should have
M8 bolts. I gave both specs. just in case
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Old 12-20-2019, 09:47 AM   #38
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I use loctite on these bolts. I don't really care what color 'cuz heat will take care of whatever.
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I second the loctite. Mine came loose a couple days. Even after being torqued to spec (according to my crappy torque wrench at least).

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Old 12-20-2019, 02:48 PM   #39
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Update!

Thank you everyone for your help and suggestions.

Turns out this was a NEW axle that had not been properly bolted in and NO thread locker.

Two of the bolts were sheared off and 5 were bent in such they were very difficult to get out. I removed the bolts (2-3 hours), cleaned up the threads on the receiving mount.

The broken bolt was a ********************. It was bent and broken. Access mostly. I drilled out the bolt but widened the hole in such the threads are no good.

I replaced all of the bolts with NEW bolts and tons of blue lock tight. I pickup up 3 normal nuts and 3 metal locking nuts hoping that one would fit the broken backside. Its right on the line and not quite. Suggestions?

I also bought 2 longer bolts and they are too close to hitting the back side of the casing. But could be ground down. I'm considering adding a slightly longer bolt and retaining it with a nut in the back. All Lock tight. Considerations?

All in all. She went back together quite well and it was a quick jump start lesson on the Boxster.
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Old 12-20-2019, 03:02 PM   #40
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Originally Posted by blue62 View Post
M8 bolts -39 N/m (29ft-lb.)
M10 bolts -81 N/m (60ft-lb.)

I believe in your first post you stated the car was a 1999 if so it should have
M8 bolts. I gave both specs. just in case
Thank you!

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