08-14-2019, 05:06 AM
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#21
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Registered User
Join Date: Sep 2012
Location: S. New Jersey
Posts: 1,239
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rob175
After costing out buying good jack stands Jackpoint Jack Stands ($350/pair w/tax & shipping), a cheap HF floor jack and the parts at Pelican I'd be spending about $1,100.....so, it's not worth it to me to DIY for the $300 difference of letting my mechanic do it. (he quoted $1,400 total)
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wow, slow down
All you need is
a pair of $35 jack stands (Some day you may want 2 pairs for complete off the ground
2 trolley jacks $40
1 scissor jack $40
(6) coils @$43/each
Doing plugs and tubes
My math is somewhere around $500
And you can use the lifting tools over and over.
I use the scissor to lift just enough to get my cheap trolley jacks under. Then use both Trolley jacks to lift high enough to put stand under. Then you're ready.
Sometimes getting the car up and ready can take as long as doing the actual work.
But it's your $$$ and many really don't want to deal with the DIY stuff and often I feel the same way. But I'm just to cheap. The other benefit for me to DIY is I can buy the tools I need as well and be ready for next job.
__________________
2002 S - old school third pedal
Seal Grey
Last edited by kk2002s; 08-14-2019 at 05:10 AM.
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08-14-2019, 05:18 AM
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#22
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1998 Boxster Silver/Red
Join Date: Sep 2017
Location: 92262
Posts: 3,064
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rob175
After costing out buying good jack stands Jackpoint Jack Stands ($350/pair w/tax & shipping)
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LOL! Dude!
I sourced the ESCOs for $125 a pair shipping included.
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1998 Porsche Boxster
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08-14-2019, 07:41 AM
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#23
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Registered User
Join Date: Nov 2018
Location: Pomona, CA
Posts: 158
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Liftbars and a low-profile HF jack with HF Y-top stands (never use the rubber caps on those with Liftbars - ask me how I know).
I saved a lot of hassle raising the car doing suspension, rotors and fluids.
If you will be doing a lot of DIY, those will pay for themselves in no time
__________________
'99 986 Base
2010 Golf TDI
'74 914 2.0
'56 356A
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08-14-2019, 10:10 AM
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#24
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Registered User
Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: O.C. CA
Posts: 3,709
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kk2002s
Really, throw some epoxy, jb weld on the coils if their cracked.
I had 3 of 6 cracked at 90 k miles. I was getting intermittent codes, very random and they would clear. No they are not cheap but the new style has a much thicker base. Pull them and you will no right away if they need replacing.
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Coils let you know when it needs to be replaced by the misfire code. (30?)
__________________
OE engine rebuilt,3.6 litre LN Engineering billet sleeves,triple row IMSB,LN rods. Deep sump oil pan with DT40 oil.
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08-14-2019, 07:59 PM
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#25
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Registered User
Join Date: Jan 2013
Location: Houston
Posts: 370
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You can test coils with an ohm meter. Google for good number. I'm at 117k on all original coils last tested 5k miles ago.
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08-15-2019, 04:10 AM
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#26
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Registered User
Join Date: Jan 2019
Location: PA
Posts: 1,615
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tailwind
Liftbars and a low-profile HF jack with HF Y-top stands (never use the rubber caps on those with Liftbars - ask me how I know).
I saved a lot of hassle raising the car doing suspension, rotors and fluids.
If you will be doing a lot of DIY, those will pay for themselves in no time 
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I used a HF low profile jack with a 4' piece of 2x4 instead of lift bars to do suspension work and replace brake fluid. And 4 HF jack stands. Worked like a charm, so I probably won't buy lift bars. But if I do, why not use the rubber caps?
Last edited by piper6909; 08-15-2019 at 04:13 AM.
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08-15-2019, 08:30 AM
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#27
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Will there be cake?
Join Date: Mar 2017
Location: East Coast
Posts: 623
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Brian in Tucson
Do it yourself. Spend the money on the tools, which are a permanent investment. Also, the 3 ton jackstands aren't tall enough. My system, which I've accumulated over years is a pair of Rhino ramps (plastic, don't bend or rust,) a bunch of 1' by 1' by 2 wooden blocks (from new lumber.) And then an air/pneumatic 12 ton bottle jack (need a compressor for this,) and the 6 ton jackstands. I have a pair of the 3 ton ones, but they don't allow enough room to crawl around and work. Nice for doing brake jobs. The air jack really does make lots of work possible and almost pleasant.
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'
Agreed on the jack stands...the 3 tons don't extend enough to give you room for some things. you need 4 of them.
Buy a decent floor jack, you want at least 24" of lift (harbor freight, low profile long reach has been working fine for me and under 200 bucks) lift bars make it even easier to shimmy up each side and get some separation between the floor and the car.
I toss the tires underneath in case something goes wrong, figuring that will save me from most of the squish if the car falls.
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08-15-2019, 10:19 AM
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#28
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Registered User
Join Date: Jul 2019
Location: Carolinas
Posts: 108
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I picked up a dozen hockey pucks off amazon for cheap. I use them on the contact points of the jack and jack stands. No chance of scraping paint. I agree on the coils. Order a couple and keep them on the shelf ( they don't eat anything). If you have a coil that needs replacing, it's right there. But I wouldn't replace them just because of milage. Other parts are really cheap and do wear out.
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08-16-2019, 04:40 AM
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#29
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Registered User
Join Date: Apr 2013
Location: Lincolnshire, IL
Posts: 513
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Can a cracked coil(s) cause AM radio static (at a slow crawl speed it's a "ticking" type sound) that inceases or decreases with acceleration or deceleration? I know resistor plugs are made to eliminate static, but I get some pretty significant AM static....but strangely it's not all the time, just most of the time.
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