The cooler came in but without new O-rings so I have to wait a couple more days. Decided to swap the AOS while I'm back there. The lines are also filled with sludge. Would like to remove both intakes to free up some of the lines so I can clean them. Tried the drivers side but discovered the fuel rail is attached somehow. How much of a headache is it to remove the intakes? Am I at risk of breaking any lines?

Agreed will be taking it to my guy when I get it back together.
I just didn't want to waste any money if its the head.
Wanted to figure that out for sure first.

Interestingly, when I drained the oil today, it showed very little signs of contamination. Doesn't look anything like what you see in the pics or in the coolant reservoir.

It worries me a lot for future resell values and availability of replacement engines.

Just like any aging car, engines need to be rebuilt/replaced. Just part of the game unfortunately. Availability of parts etc will not be a problem IMO. A: Porsche makes every part for the whole fleet, there is at least that. And, there is a robust aftermarket for Porsche as a whole, and many specialists. Don't think keep these cars in good running condition will be terribly difficult. In terms of cost/value... personal decision. These cars, like all Porsches, will have their day.

AOS and oil cooler replaced.
Now the flushing starts.
When I started the process I noticed that the plug for the air intake was unhooked.
When I finished and started the car, it wouldn't idle unless I unhooked it.
Any ideas?

Attachment 21569

Uh, that plug is your MAF sensor... not sure how the car is running without throwing codes with it disconnected. Have you ever had a look with a code reader? Something is not right with your overall system. Could be as simple as needing a new MAF, could be a can of worms... probably has nothing to do with your oil issue though... also, please clean that engine while you are there... makes it happy.

Weird...I'll have to dig out the reader.
CEL has never come on.
Car runs fine with it unplugged but stalls if I plug it in.

And yes a complete engine detail is in order.
Want it working correctly first.

Start by purchasing a can of MAF cleaner, give it a good cleaning and see if that helps. Cheap solution if it works. Just make sure you don't physically touch any of the sensing elements.

Good luck!

first bit of good news.
Took her for a quick 10km to bring her up to temp.
Carefully took it to redline a couple of times....no smoke :)
Seems to still run strong.
Still got hot because I have no coolant flow.
Other than the obvious..ie pulling the bumper and trying to empty the rads of the gunk, is there anything else is should clean to get it flowing and is there an additive I can use to break down the oil?

more news some good some bad
 

The good

First complete flush removed roughly 15 liters of mud...yes mud. thick chocolate milk.
filled with just water. let it come up to temp before taking it out for a drive.
Eventually things inside began to circulate.
I got back my heat.
Stayed just over 180 with just water...until I stopped and let it idle.

The bad..my oil level is not staying consistent.
May still be loosing it.
Will wait until the car has sat overnight to check it.
Thought I was ok because last oil change had virtually not coolant but now I'm not sure.

I fear freeze plug failure or cracked head still.
Will attempt a few more flushes tomorrow.
Today was over 30degrees...too hot to do much outside.

Time for a tear down. If you are still loosing oil (with no obvious external leaks) you are chasing your tail trying to flush. You have an internal problem. Best to get it solved before you grenade the entire engine...

Have you performed a coolant system pressure test..?

+1 and then some. Water can't be compressed. If it gets into a cylinder on the way back up, you will break a rod and or the crank, i.e. grenade'd engine squared.

Update
 

The good.
Oil has been changed a couple of times now with a couple of hundred spirited kms between changes...No more white smoke and absolutely no coolant in the oil. I'm now refilled with synthetic.

Coolant was flushed a couple of times, pulling the front bumper to get at the hoses, pulling the water pump and thermostat to removed any sludge. No matter how many times I flushed it with water I just couldn't get out all the sludge. I caved and went the cascade route which seems to be popular solution on the diesel truck sites. Throw in some non foaming cascade dishwasher liquid to help emulsify the oil. This seems to have done the trick. I have flushed it twice now with the cascade and the amount of oil showing up in the overflow tank seems to be getting progressively less. I'm still not 100% sure I'm out of the woods but it looks promising.

Surprisingly the coolant system on these cars seems to be excellent. We are experiencing a heat wave at the moment. It's been between 30-39 degrees for about a week now. Even with just water the car is holding steady just above 180. I would have to stop for a long time with the car running for the temp to climb at all. Even then it only gets have way to the next line and drops almost as soon as I drive away.

I'm still fearful of a blow head gasket but should know more within the week. I will continue to flush the system until I see no oil before putting coolant back in.

thanks for all the replies. I will let you know how it turns out..

Man oh man, I cannot fathom how you would have that much intermix from just the cooler going bad, but maybe? If you don’t have an internal problem, you should play the lottery, like NOW! Or, hit Vegas or something!

And, you still need to figure out why your MAF is unplugged...

Hi, It is still ok?

Im facing the same issue, even after an engine rebuild.

The mech said the oil coller was ok, but I still want to replace it, before i need to remove the engine again (3rd time)

Thanks!