oil in the coolant and vise versa.. :(
 

Had an oil change done three weeks ago. Dumbasses put in too much oil. The first time I put the pedal down and brought the revs up. Poof white smoke. I assumed the Air oil Separator must have some how self destructed so ordered a new one. While I waited I continued to drive the car but like an old geezer. A few days later my coolant light came on and the car got hot. Put in some coolant and tried to diagnose.

Here is what I found.
Oil in the coolant reservoir...chocolate milk and a lot of it.
Drained the oil...chocolate milk as well and this oil was only a couple of weeks old.

Is it possible that having too much oil ...say half a liter to a liter extra could have somehow damaged the AOS and the oil cooler at the same time?

Or is it more likely that the AOS was slowly starting to go but the extra oil caused it to rear its ugly head and the extra oil pressure blew the oil cooler?

I'm hopeful that this will be an easy fix.

I'm terrified the extra oil pressure may have somehow blown a head gasket.

2001 boxster S still runs and idles fine..only has issues if |I try to bring the revs up under load...reving in the driveway for example does not produce any smoke.

Several things come to mind.

They put oil in the coolant tank.
The oil cooler is a known failure point.
The AOS has no connection to the coolant system.

My bet is the oil cooler. Could it have been just coolant added to oil because of a coincidental failure?

How do you know they put too much oil in?

What do the plugs look like? All 6 the same?

After driving and getting the large poof of white smoke I parked the car to do some research. That's where I read about the AOS and decided to order one.
The next morning I checked the oil level like I always do after a change just to be sure it was at the correct level. It was reading too full. All the lines were lit up. I also did the test of running the car while trying to pull of the oil cap. I didn't have any suction when doing this but still ordered a new AOS.

Oh and I changed the plugs...all the ends looked great but...there was plenty of oil in the sleeves around the coils

While nothing is impossible, I doubt my guy put coolant in the oil or the other way around.

here are a couple of pics of the oilhttp://986forum.com/forums/uploads02...1527557038.jpghere is the dreaded sludge
http://986forum.com/forums/uploads02...1527557335.jpg This oil is only a few hundred kms old.
http://986forum.com/forums/uploads02...1527557400.jpg I tried to make a shadow so you could see it better.

IMHO, I seriously suggest that you don't run it anymore until you find out WTF is going on. You may make a minor problem something considerably worse.

Not likely that your car suffered two simultaneous independent failures. Also, extra oil shouldn't damage the oil cooler.


Yes, this is possible.

No. Extra oil shouldn't damage the oil cooler. The oil pump creates the oil pressure which is (generally) independent of the total volume of oil in the engine.


Yes, this is possible. But only the AOS would be affected and since the AOS is not connected to the coolant system, there is no way that an AOS failure can result in coolant in the oil.


If the oil cooler is the only failure, then yes, it will be fairly simple. If not the oil cooler, then you likely have a very serious problem.

No, extra oil would not affect oil pressure. But you still might have a blown head gasket for other reasons.


Never operate an engine with oil/coolant intermix until you know the cause.

I'd do a coolant system pressure test. This might help point you in the direction of the coolant leak.
If not, then I'd remove and pressure test the oil cooler.
If the oil cooler is ok, then I'd do a compression and leak down test on all cylinders.
Once you've got this far, you should have found something that points you in the right direction to find the problem.

perhaps related you your ticking noise ...

http://986forum.com/forums/boxster-general-discussions/69557-ims-something-else.html

I suggest you read flat6innovations write up ( google intermix 986 boxster) and click into article. compare your symptoms including what happened up until seeing the intermix issue.

I doubt it is the AOS or the oil cooler, or a blown head gasket. Boosters don't blow head gaskets very often.
I don't know the mileage but hope it isn't the dreaded cracked head. Oil reads high and coolant disappears. Does the temp light flas slowly now?
Let us know.

Sorry was away for a bit.
Parked the car.

Yes coolant going somewhere but no visible leaks.
Yes oil reads high...even after I flushed it myself and only added 7 litres of oil.
Read very low at first which it should. A coulple of drives later and it now reads high.
Can't notice any symptoms on the dip stick.
Coolant was vanishing at an alarming rate though.
Will do a bit more research before I send it to my guy for a barrage of testing.

Thanks to everyone who is responding. I fear the end may be near for the motor.

As for the ticking I posted a long time ago, a clip on the from bumper had come loose. Slowing from highway speeds it would start banging in the wind. fixed the clip and the issue went away.

My most recent engine failure went like this...

Losing coolant.
Continued to drive the car.
Replaced coolant tank. Still losing coolant.
Continued to drive the car.
Tightened all coolant connections. Still losing coolant.
Continued to drive the car.
Coolant system pressure test fail. Still losing coolant.
Continued to drive the car.
Compression/leakdown test. Leakdown test fail.
Continued to drive the car.
Engine stumbles once and low oil pressure light on intermittently.
Engine back to running fine. Continued to drive car. Low oil pressure light on solid.
Continued to drive car. Engine stopped running. Won't start or run.
Installed replacement engine.

I hope that your situation works out better than mine did.

The new oil cooler should be here tomorrow. While I have everything apart, is there anything else I should be looking at or cleaning?

Be sure to install new o-rings.

I had similar symptoms. Car is currently parked until I have a chance to check if it’s the oil cooler but I’m just accepting that’s it’s by and large a cracked head and it’s time to start saving for a 3.4 liter swap...


I swear we didn’t see intermix issues here a few years ago and now there is a thread every other month.......

The age and mileage of the 986 "fleet" continues to increase each year. Thus, a lot of engines are reaching the end of their useful life.

This is normal, expected and it will get worse as the fleet continues to age and add mileage.

I am predicting it's not the oil cooler.

I would have the poor thing towed to a shop and have the coolant system pressure tested. My gut feeling is that you have a cracked head, when the engine gets hot, the pressurized coolant is being pushed into the oil galleys and ends up in the crankcase. Which is why your coolant goes down and your motor oil goes up.

It doesn't look like you have that much oil in your coolant tank, when the coolant cools it's probably sucking a little oil into the cooling system.

Thanks for the info guys. Cooler got delayed but I'm starting the teardown today anyway. Hopefully it shows up today so I can finish the job and get back on the road. I am praying that it's not the head.

Thoughts? pic of the oil cooler removed.
Oil cooler or head?
It appears that sludge is only on the coolant side in the pic.

Thoughts on the pic
 

Attachment 21565 Thoughts on the pic of the oil cooler removed

Pressure test the cooler.

No surprise you have chocolate milk in the oil cooler which contains the same oil that's in the pan.

I'm betting your motor has an internal issue causing the intermix.

I would have it hauled to a real mechanic who can determine the exact issue. Your local POC members should be able to provide you leads to a competent wrench unless you're comfortable dropping and rebuilding yourself.

The cooler came in but without new O-rings so I have to wait a couple more days. Decided to swap the AOS while I'm back there. The lines are also filled with sludge. Would like to remove both intakes to free up some of the lines so I can clean them. Tried the drivers side but discovered the fuel rail is attached somehow. How much of a headache is it to remove the intakes? Am I at risk of breaking any lines?

Agreed will be taking it to my guy when I get it back together.
I just didn't want to waste any money if its the head.
Wanted to figure that out for sure first.

Interestingly, when I drained the oil today, it showed very little signs of contamination. Doesn't look anything like what you see in the pics or in the coolant reservoir.

It worries me a lot for future resell values and availability of replacement engines.

Just like any aging car, engines need to be rebuilt/replaced. Just part of the game unfortunately. Availability of parts etc will not be a problem IMO. A: Porsche makes every part for the whole fleet, there is at least that. And, there is a robust aftermarket for Porsche as a whole, and many specialists. Don't think keep these cars in good running condition will be terribly difficult. In terms of cost/value... personal decision. These cars, like all Porsches, will have their day.

AOS and oil cooler replaced.
Now the flushing starts.
When I started the process I noticed that the plug for the air intake was unhooked.
When I finished and started the car, it wouldn't idle unless I unhooked it.
Any ideas?

Attachment 21569

Uh, that plug is your MAF sensor... not sure how the car is running without throwing codes with it disconnected. Have you ever had a look with a code reader? Something is not right with your overall system. Could be as simple as needing a new MAF, could be a can of worms... probably has nothing to do with your oil issue though... also, please clean that engine while you are there... makes it happy.

Weird...I'll have to dig out the reader.
CEL has never come on.
Car runs fine with it unplugged but stalls if I plug it in.

And yes a complete engine detail is in order.
Want it working correctly first.

Start by purchasing a can of MAF cleaner, give it a good cleaning and see if that helps. Cheap solution if it works. Just make sure you don't physically touch any of the sensing elements.

Good luck!

first bit of good news.
Took her for a quick 10km to bring her up to temp.
Carefully took it to redline a couple of times....no smoke :)
Seems to still run strong.
Still got hot because I have no coolant flow.
Other than the obvious..ie pulling the bumper and trying to empty the rads of the gunk, is there anything else is should clean to get it flowing and is there an additive I can use to break down the oil?

more news some good some bad
 

The good

First complete flush removed roughly 15 liters of mud...yes mud. thick chocolate milk.
filled with just water. let it come up to temp before taking it out for a drive.
Eventually things inside began to circulate.
I got back my heat.
Stayed just over 180 with just water...until I stopped and let it idle.

The bad..my oil level is not staying consistent.
May still be loosing it.
Will wait until the car has sat overnight to check it.
Thought I was ok because last oil change had virtually not coolant but now I'm not sure.

I fear freeze plug failure or cracked head still.
Will attempt a few more flushes tomorrow.
Today was over 30degrees...too hot to do much outside.

Time for a tear down. If you are still loosing oil (with no obvious external leaks) you are chasing your tail trying to flush. You have an internal problem. Best to get it solved before you grenade the entire engine...

Have you performed a coolant system pressure test..?

+1 and then some. Water can't be compressed. If it gets into a cylinder on the way back up, you will break a rod and or the crank, i.e. grenade'd engine squared.

Update
 

The good.
Oil has been changed a couple of times now with a couple of hundred spirited kms between changes...No more white smoke and absolutely no coolant in the oil. I'm now refilled with synthetic.

Coolant was flushed a couple of times, pulling the front bumper to get at the hoses, pulling the water pump and thermostat to removed any sludge. No matter how many times I flushed it with water I just couldn't get out all the sludge. I caved and went the cascade route which seems to be popular solution on the diesel truck sites. Throw in some non foaming cascade dishwasher liquid to help emulsify the oil. This seems to have done the trick. I have flushed it twice now with the cascade and the amount of oil showing up in the overflow tank seems to be getting progressively less. I'm still not 100% sure I'm out of the woods but it looks promising.

Surprisingly the coolant system on these cars seems to be excellent. We are experiencing a heat wave at the moment. It's been between 30-39 degrees for about a week now. Even with just water the car is holding steady just above 180. I would have to stop for a long time with the car running for the temp to climb at all. Even then it only gets have way to the next line and drops almost as soon as I drive away.

I'm still fearful of a blow head gasket but should know more within the week. I will continue to flush the system until I see no oil before putting coolant back in.

thanks for all the replies. I will let you know how it turns out..

Man oh man, I cannot fathom how you would have that much intermix from just the cooler going bad, but maybe? If you don’t have an internal problem, you should play the lottery, like NOW! Or, hit Vegas or something!

And, you still need to figure out why your MAF is unplugged...

Hi, It is still ok?

Im facing the same issue, even after an engine rebuild.

The mech said the oil coller was ok, but I still want to replace it, before i need to remove the engine again (3rd time)

Thanks!