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Old 05-01-2018, 07:22 PM   #1
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Window Woes

Hay y'all:
so there are so many threads on window problems, that I find I've been diving down a never-ending rabbit hole for the last hour or so..... each seems like it's getting closer, only to leave me hanging..... ::sigh:: story of my life, haha!

So I hope you'll forgive another thread, with a problem that I'm not finding in any of these other threads.

Specifically, relating to the auto-lowering feature when you open the doors.

Here's what works:
Both windows operate correctly with the buttons. Both respond to "one-touch". Both will raise or lower if I insert the key into the door lock and hold it in a direction. The passenger-side door makes an awful "tearing" noise when the window operates, like a cable unraveling, but it doesn't seem to bind or run slowly.
Both windows will lower about 2" automatically when I release the handle for the convertible-top mechanism. So far so good.

Neither window auto-lowers the 1/4" when I pull on the handle, (either outside or inside). When I tug on the inside driver's door, it makes a sound like it "might", (and may actually move slightly t the rear, but barely perceptible), which makes me think the micro-switch is working. But it doesn't actually DO anything. The passenger side does nothing at all.

It seems there are two common failures on these cars: the regulator and the micro-switch in the handle. And apparently there are TWO micro-switches: one in each handle (inner / outer). It seems unlikely to me that ALL 4 would be bad?

I read in another thread that if the regulator / mechanism is bad, then you should be able to "press-down" on the window and make it move. I've tried with the driver's door, and it does not budge.

Do y'all have any ideas here? Haas anyone dealt with these symptoms before? Am I dealing with related issues left / right? or do you think it's a storm of several squalls?

Any help would be greatly appreciated. It's sorta a P.I.T.A. right now.... and I'm not even driving it yet!
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Old 05-01-2018, 08:42 PM   #2
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Drivers side - stretched cable. There are fixes for this that don't involve replacing anything.
Passenger side - bad microswitch.

Last edited by particlewave; 05-03-2018 at 11:17 PM.
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Old 05-02-2018, 07:10 PM   #3
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Particlewave.... dude.... you're a stud! Haha.

I'll do some searching on the stretched cable, and see what I can find.

Ditto on the micro switch for the passenger side.

Thank you!

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Old 05-03-2018, 05:15 PM   #4
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I've successfully completed the "stretched cable" fix. Thanks for the heads-up, Particlewave!
Now it drops perfectly. HOWEVER: if I open from the outside handle, the window only stays down as long as I've got the handle pulled. the moment I let go of the handle, it goes back up. NOT SO with the interior handle; If I pull the interior handle, it goes down and stays down until I get out and close the door.

I know I've seen some threads about this as I was searching, so I'll go see what I can find. if anybody wants to chime-in, that's also appreciated.
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Old 05-03-2018, 11:19 PM   #5
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I was wrong about the door handle switches (was going from memory). There are separate switches for the inside and outside handles, though they are wired in parallel with each other. This will require some investigation.
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Old 05-04-2018, 07:41 AM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by particlewave View Post
I was wrong about the door handle switches (was going from memory). There are separate switches for the inside and outside handles, though they are wired in parallel with each other. This will require some investigation.
Thanks for the notice, PW.
I haven't had a chance to really do anything yet, including a search. I'll have to try to get to it this weekend.
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Old 05-09-2018, 07:23 PM   #7
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noisy window

Any results yet on the "awful tearing noise when the window operates, like a cable unraveling"?
Just replaced my passenger window regulator with a good used one. The old one made squeaky balloon/grinding/crunching noises for a little while, while working fine. I didn't stop using it right then because I thought the noise was the interior rubber gutter rubbing against the sticky back residue from the window tint I had just pulled off. After about 15 ups and downs, the window stopped operating. Ordered a good used regulator from Woody, put it in, and it went up and down once smoothly, but then the next time it did the same grinding/cable chewing noise that preceded the death of the original regulator. I took it out and saw that the cable had come off one of the white pulley wheels. So, it turns out that the crunching noise was the cable running behind and not on the pulley. Do it enough, and the cable ends up shredded, as I saw in the original regulator. Donít know how it happened that the cable in the replacement regulator came off the pulley- possibly because I adjusted the window clamp screw to replicate the position on the original regulator, but without allowing for tension or slack to be taken up elsewhere in the system.
There was enough tension on the cable that I could not get it back on the pulley except by separating the motor and the spool. When I did that, the spring tension of the cable around the spool made it pop off the spool and I had to re-thread the cable on the spool- kind of a three handed job. But I got it back together, put it back in, and it has worked great for a coupla weeks so far, no issues.
In hindsight, it could be that if I had stopped using the window the first time I heard the grinding, I could have gone in there and found that the cable was off the pulley- and i might have seen it before it started shredding itself. Could be I might have salvaged the whole thing.
With the new/used cable in the passenger door, the window does the proper 1/2" drop whenever the door handle is used. Driver's door window stopped doing the full 1/2" a while ago so soon I will insert the bike brake cable barrel adjustment to restore that.

Let us know what goes on with the noisy window.
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