How hard can coolant tank replacement be?
 

Seems like I need a new coolant expansion tank. Was going to book it in as it was due for coolant change and installing my low temp thermostat - But Thinking of doing myself, just because!
Is it really the pain to do as some people say?
Any experiences, advice, cheats, etc welcome.
Also what other bits can I do while i'm at it?
Thanks.

It’s a PITA DIY, four middle fingers out of five.
My tank was toast, so I cruised the DIY pages online. Pedro’s site shows how he did it all from up top.
I jacked the back of the car only on 18” stands, not only to gain underside access, but it kep the coolant lines to the tank from dribbling coolant into the trunk and saved me from burping the cooling system afterwards.
You’ll need that cable operated tool to remove the factory clamps, and pick up an oil fill tube too, because mine was really brittle and let go. Glad I had one ahead of time, saved me a trip to my Indie to pick one up part way through the job.
I removed the tank through the trunk, cutting it into pieces with a RotoZip tool and got all the hose connectors undo through the trunk too.
My hands are way too big, so I had to take the diamond shape brace from under the car and work from the bottom to hook all the tubes up again.
Certainly not a fun job, but definitely doable and I had a strong feeling of accomplishment afterward, probably because it was such a pain.

Patience, patience, patience
+1 PITA. Make sure no youngsters are within hearing distance
It's all in those hoses, oil fill on the engine side of the firewall
I worked under and on top to get them undone and connected. I did not cut the old apart
I had it stuffed and it now hangs on my fireplace mantle

Have to use cable clamp tool. I was worried about breaking the oil fill tube but fortunately it did not. They aren't to expensive, so it could be good time to replace
Make sure to position the clamps so you know you can get the clamping tool on them in those tight quarters

After reading all the horror stories, I was disappointed with how easy mine was when I did it.
These two two threads were very helpful:
http://986forum.com/forums/diy-project-guides/56334-diy-coolant-tank-replacement-under-2-hours.html
http://986forum.com/forums/diy-project-guides/50261-another-coolant-tank-replacement-diy.html

Here's notes from when I did mine:
Lastly, many people have tried to save a little money buying a cheaper coolant tank. Many of those people have posted their regrets.
http://986forum.com/forums/uploads02...1523282512.jpg

I got a really cheap expansion tank. $49.95 or so shipped. From Amazon. So far it's worked out really well. Guess I've been lucky. NLA, btw. But there is this:

https://www.amazon.com/Genuine-Porsche-Radiator-Coolant-Expansion/dp/B00AGR9XLE/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1523285780&sr=8-3&keywords=Porsche+boxster+expansion+tank

Mine wasn't so easy the first time, the Porsche factory elves seem to get a perverse delight installing those spring clamps pointing the wrong direction so they're impossible to compress. I put it back together, with a new oil fill tube and a new dipstick tube. Reused all the spring clamps except the two that go to the metal coolant tubes (replace those rubber hoses,) those were brand new worm drive clamps, the best I could find. Makes getting it all loose again more of a piece o' cake. In case my cheap coolant tank needs replacing in 4 or 5 years.

I think I will give it go!
I may get a new oil filler tube as mine looks oily.
Did anyone replace the temp sensor?
I also thought about replacing water pump at same time but is in only 3 1/2 yrs/23,000 miles old (replaced with IMS) so if looks ok it can wait until next time.
Of course I will get the real Porsche tank!

Thanks for all the advice.

Can we make this a sticky!

Another Question!
Has anyone experience of using a Coolant Air purge / Refill tool? - such as 'Schwaben 003466SCH01 Coolant Refill/Air Purge Tool'

Seems like a good idea and easier than than all the engine revving method.

It shows $189.

?

Ja. But it's jen u wine Porsche OEM. Decent price.

Look into UView. There is a basic one for around $80 but it needs an air compressor. I used a 6 Lb pancake without issue

Decent price. Yes.

You said:

I got a really cheap expansion tank. $49.95 or so shipped. From Amazon.

Would you take a moment to share the $49.95 link?

Thank you.

I just used the Uview 550000 Airlift on a 97. I paid $138 plus tax via a Brazilian Prime river. It is amazingly simple to use. Youtube videos convinced me. That and my indie wanted over $400 to flush and fill. Times two cars to do, the savings is significant for me. I say go for it. If you have the skills to R&R the tank, you have the skills to use it. The times savings alone is worth it.

Another question.
Did you guys re-use the hose clamps or use new ones or new screw type clamps.
Thanks.

Ahh - just looked at the post below which answers my question! I will try and re-use.

I would if I could, I looked it up in my Amazon orders and it's no longer available. Closest thing on Amazon is this:

https://www.amazon.com/Coolant-Reservoir-Porsche-Boxster-99610614708/dp/B078NG7CRQ/ref=sr_1_1?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1523400007&sr= 1-1&keywords=Engine+Coolant+Recovery+Tank%2FReservoi r+For+Porsche+Boxster+99610614708

I wouldn't hesitate to get one, but install it so it's easier to remove, particularly the clamps on the hoses that connect to the car's coolant system metal tubes. I use worm drive clamps on those two hoses.

You can get a cable type hose clamp compressor on Ebay--works okay for $11, but I ended up resoldering the ferule on the cable. And a cheap set of coolant how picks from Harbor Freight, too. Replace those hoses, btw. My replacements were from auto parts shop bulk stock and went on tight enough that I had to use Sil-Glide to get them to slip on.

I reuse them, except where the hoses go on the metal tubes of the car's coolant system. Those are worm drive. When you put on the spring clamps plan the location of the jaws for if you ever need to take them off. The clamps that Porsche uses are really good clamps, just knuckle busters to get off (which is why replacing the tank is such a pain in the arse.)

I had 2 screw and 3 spring. I changed them all out for new screws.

The quality of mine is as good as the factory oem.

That's arguable. If there's one thing I've learned from these forums is that, unless you're doing some modding, if it's connected to the engine, it's OEM only.

Nah, not worth arguing about.

You're entitled to your opinion and you can spend your money any way you like. I've learned from forums and email lists over about 30 years that it ain't necessarily so. If someone says something once, it tends to be a self fulfilling prophesy and a replicating rumor. Some one, some where had an aftermarket tank leak, OEM tanks leak, that's why we replace them. And maybe the brand new tank was mishandled on its way to the customer

I'll cite an example of self sustaining rumors, 30 or so years ago, a squid was throwing his rice rocket motorcycle around at a track day. His Fram oil filter let go and spewed oil all over a pit area. Ever since, Frams have had a bad rep. and have been a no-no. This despite the fact that some of the Fram stuff is very good--I use XG5 series in my Porsche--spin on. I bought them in bulk and paid about $3.50 each. Frams ain't no good, I know. I'll keep an eye on them. Just like I would with Bosch. http://www.gmtruckcentral.com/articles/oilfilter/gradesheet.htm

OR, that Wix and Napa Gold are the best filter on the market. I don't think so, but whatever!

Oh. I'm not arguing. However, I read at least 8 hours a day and, unknown to my wife, 3 of those are reading all about the tasks I have lined up for my 98. WP. LTT. Plugs. Coils. Coolant tank. AOS. And, from a variety of sources. I won't buy a toothbrush without first scouting the web, and Amazon. So, I didn't make the choice to go with OEM parts lightly, as I enjoy saving quid as much as the next guy. It simply isn't worth the $100-$200 headache if the part fails because of poor quality. That said...

I've been using FRAM filters for decades, despite a rice burner not tightening his filter sufficiently. Threw in some K&H... Purolator... etc... yet always finding myself returning to the FRAM.

In spite of all that... I would be interested in knowing just how the tank works out for you. If it's not leaking after 3 years... I'm in. I'll use that $200 elsewhere. Don't tell my wife.

Cheers! :cheers: