Window drop question...again - passenger side

[Bruce]

Late last fall I noticed the passenger side window was not dropping low enough to clear the top and open the door without the window catching on the top. I've been through a TON of websites and forums and still don't have a clear answer on where to turn next.

Both windows function with the console switch(es), up/down and one touch. Passenger side window does drop when I get ready to open the top. I can lower both windows with the key in the driver side door.

So far I've replaced the door handle microswitch...no help. I've disconnected the battery and reset the windows...nope. I even tried the 'cable tie' trick...nothing.

Spoke with my Indie guy and he suspects it may be a programming/learning thing.

Is it possible the window may need to be adjusted? Sometimes my wife will forget to WAIT that extra second for the window to drop.

Many thanks!

[rexcramer]

Do you know if they are the original regulators? The regulators are a known problem. They are cable driven and the cables tend to stretch as they get older. When they stretch they tend not to drop enough when you first start to open the doors. (My experience) I'm not sure about the 'cable tie' hack. Some have used a bicycle cable adjuster to extend the life.

There is a very specific method to adjusting the windows laid out in the Bentley manual. You need to pull the door card and the plugs on the bottom of the door to access the hardware. It takes a bit of fiddling to get them right.

If you do need to X/O the regulator, I suggest that you use the OEM part. I tried an aftermarket part and it failed in 6 months. Luckily it was covered under warranty.

[Bruce]

Thanks for the reply, rexcramer!

I'm going to assume the regulator(s) is/are original since the door membrane was interesting to remove! If anything, I thought the driver door would be first since that door is used the most. I agree...OEM the only way to go! I wouldn't want to remove the door panel every few years! This has been interesting thus far...terrified I'd snap/break something! Go slow, take notes, and label the not so obvious screws, etc...

I'll update the post once I decide how I'm going to tackle this.

Thanks again!

[rexcramer]

It's a medium DIY project. Simple tools, sockets and allen wrenches. I did buy a door card tool from HF that makes popping the cars off easy. Make sure to get the plastic liner on good and sealed. I had mine off for a couple of days and we had a rare rain day. I was surprised at the amount of water that got on the carpet. Passenger side thankfully.

[1096369fred]

I am fighting the same issue.... And have done the same fixes as you with no luck.... I must have had the door apart 10 times.....
I did buy the cheap $50 regulator.... It is a piece of ****************..... Don't waste your time.....
I haven't been able to get it set correctly..... Just close.... I don't know if the $100 dollar one will work.... But no one seems to complain about OEM..... Just say'n!

Good luck!
Fred

[zerosleep]

Any update on this? just bought a boxter s and it has that issue on the driver side.

[rexcramer]

I tried the URO regulators and the one side wouldn't fit and the other side failed in less than a year. I was able to return both fortunately. IMO the OEM regulators are worth the money in times savings alone. Once and done.

[tonythetiger]

First, it is an easy install. I can do one in about 30 minutes.
Read the advice in pelican tech articles,
set the limits on your new regulator matching the one you took off, I was always close enough
take your time pulling off the door and the membrane, using the door card tools. harbor freight sells a set for 10 bucks that work fine
DONT remove the bolts from the clamps that hold the window and make sure you spread the rubber, giving the window a place to go in advance as they are usually stuck together from sitting on a shelf for years.

I've been thrilled with the URO regulators...installed four of them over the years and they are still performing flawlessly, with less effort out of the motor presumably because of the bearing rollers. There are some cheap regulators out there for about 40 bucks on amazon I was tempted by, but stuck with the 125 buck UROs, as I was unwilling to pay 300 for OEM. Also, comparing the OEM to the URO, the OEM looked less durable.
What when wrong with yours Rex?

[rexcramer]

I was also intrigued by the bearing roller guides. I wanted to like them. They looked and felt better than the OEM. And the engineering made better sense.

The first one had a roller guide break apart. I never could figure out why. It was literally in 4 pieces in the bottom of the door. Before it broke, I needed to replace the passenger side. Bought another from the same vendor and tried to install it. The mounting holes wouldn't line up. They weren't off by much, but enough to not line up with the motor. I actually had to take my calipers and the OEM motor sample with me to convince the guy I was on the level. He pulled another off the shelf and it measured different than OEM also. He called his supplier and they finally agreed it was an injection molding issue. Ordered an OEM and viola.

Then the original failed and back to the shop for a refund. The counter guy was getting tired of me and my problems. Ordered OEM number 2. All good now.

I have been in my doors one too many times. I tried the bike cable adjuster and it worked for a while. But a cable that is already failing/stretching just ends up stretching more. +1 on the HF door card pliers tool. I spent some time smoothing the rough edges on it and wrapping it with electrical tape to protect the door. But it works great.

Final thought, the plastic inner door sheet is really important to get back on properly. I had one off for a couple of days, running back and forth, and damned if it didn't rain here. I was surprised at how wet the passenger floor carpet (luckily) got with it off.

[zerosleep]

All great information guys, thanks. I am going to try that zip-tie trick first and hopefully I won't have to do the regulator too soon.

[tonythetiger]

Originally Posted by zerosleep

All great information guys, thanks. I am going to try that zip-tie trick first and hopefully I won't have to do the regulator too soon.

Get some sleep



Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[professorman]

For those searching, this thread seems like it contains the best solution for this particular issue: Window regulator permanent fix for stretched cable