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Old 02-14-2018, 07:26 AM   #1
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Stero AMP question

I already have googled searched form ect... and have not found information.

I finally decided to do the Double DIN radio mod the kit has all the parts for inside. What I am looking for is an adaptor for aftermarket amp into the factory wiring harness. Plenty of adaptors available for the head unit to factory wiring just can't find one for amp.

I have 996 six channel amp in now I swapped in from ebay to replace the 4 channel unit. Non Bose.

Plan:
Install rear speaker kit.
Install updated Head unit with NAV
Change door speakers to either shallow mount 6.5 subs or shallow mount 8"
Already updated dash speakers.
Last would like to get an updated amp. Saw a guy used factory amp bracket and stacked 2 aftermarket amps, just doesn't list an adaptor to the factory wiring.

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Old 02-14-2018, 08:49 AM   #2
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Originally Posted by Cunningr View Post
I already have googled searched form ect... and have not found information.

I finally decided to do the Double DIN radio mod the kit has all the parts for inside. What I am looking for is an adaptor for aftermarket amp into the factory wiring harness. Plenty of adaptors available for the head unit to factory wiring just can't find one for amp.

I have 996 six channel amp in now I swapped in from ebay to replace the 4 channel unit. Non Bose.

Plan:
Install rear speaker kit.
Install updated Head unit with NAV
Change door speakers to either shallow mount 6.5 subs or shallow mount 8"
Already updated dash speakers.
Last would like to get an updated amp. Saw a guy used factory amp bracket and stacked 2 aftermarket amps, just doesn't list an adaptor to the factory wiring.
Check with crutchfield I believe they ship world wide. They have great customer service. https://www.crutchfield.com/S-xecuB7X41xk/
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Old 02-14-2018, 08:56 AM   #3
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Check with crutchfield I believe they ship world wide. They have great customer service. https://www.crutchfield.com/S-xecuB7X41xk/
I already tried crutchfield, they have everything for head unit. I cant find adaptor for the amplifier. I contacted a place in UK see if i grt lucky.
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Old 02-14-2018, 11:18 AM   #4
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I tore apart, and used the factory amp plug as my interface for the stock wiring.



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Old 02-14-2018, 11:27 AM   #5
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Looks like you've got a solution. I would have just run RCA's from the head unit to the amp and pick up power and ground from the battery. Speaker connections could be spiced from existing wiring (disconnect plug from factory amp).
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Old 02-14-2018, 11:43 AM   #6
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I tore apart, and used the factory amp plug as my interface for the stock wiring.



I was thinking about this i have an extra amplifier, was hoping someone else had made a commercial adaptor. Lol.

The install kit comes with an apaptorvto bring the rca line outs to the factory harness.
Guess i will take a look at my extra amp, hate to destroy it was factory original. Trying to leave things as least molested as possible. My desire for modern technology finally over came the desire to keep everything untouched. Lol

Thanks for the post.
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Old 02-14-2018, 12:18 PM   #7
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Old 11-28-2018, 01:16 PM   #8
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I am in the process of doing something similar. Do you have a pin out or diagram for what pins control what. Also what did you use to make that? Just soldered the wires on to the pins?
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Old 11-28-2018, 09:48 PM   #9
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I dont have the pin out any more i just googled it plus i think there is a schematic on our forum. In the end i just ran the rca cable for the input, my intent was to go like the one in the pic though so i ended up with a highbred. Used the speaker connection into factory via connector and from head unit to input via rca. No wire cutting at all.
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Last edited by Cunningr; 11-29-2018 at 08:56 AM.
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Old 11-29-2018, 07:23 AM   #10
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You will be disappointed if you are using the factory amp with a new head unit. The channel to the door speakers has an internal low pass filter that will remove frequencies above 50 Hz or thereabouts. It is possible to disassemble the Haes 6-ch and "remove" the filter. The procedure for that is on Rennlist, I think. There are also schematics for the mods necessary to the door cards to accommodate 6.5" speakers on Rennlist. Not enough room for 8", but some have installed 6 X 9. Good luck.
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Old 11-29-2018, 09:00 AM   #11
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You will be disappointed if you are using the factory amp with a new head unit. The channel to the door speakers has an internal low pass filter that will remove frequencies above 50 Hz or thereabouts. It is possible to disassemble the Haes 6-ch and "remove" the filter. The procedure for that is on Rennlist, I think. There are also schematics for the mods necessary to the door cards to accommodate 6.5" speakers on Rennlist. Not enough room for 8", but some have installed 6 X 9. Good luck.
I modified a pair of nokia door enclosures i go off ebay to hold 6.5 drivers in the door, added some air holes and sound dampening. Went with 3 inch in the dash and 1 inch tweeters. Alpine amp and found a bose subwoofer out of a cabriolet and modified that to hold a 8 inch pioneer subwoofer. HU is set to active mode sounds really good.
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Old 11-30-2018, 10:13 AM   #12
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I modified a pair of nokia door enclosures i go off ebay to hold 6.5 drivers in the door, added some air holes and sound dampening. Went with 3 inch in the dash and 1 inch tweeters. Alpine amp and found a bose subwoofer out of a cabriolet and modified that to hold a 8 inch pioneer subwoofer. HU is set to active mode sounds really good.
I kept the CDR220 and installed a Polk Audio 5-ch amp. Polk 2-way speakers in the dash, and four 3" from somebody that actually makes 3" speakers in the rear. Paper cones were all shot front and rear, but the door subs were/are perfect. The Polk sub channel is 2 ohm, so wiring in series with the two 2 ohm doors provides a sound level I didn't think would be available from those 5-1//4" subs. So many good ways to kill that rat.
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Old 11-30-2018, 02:10 PM   #13
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I kept the CDR220 and installed a Polk Audio 5-ch amp. Polk 2-way speakers in the dash, and four 3" from somebody that actually makes 3" speakers in the rear. Paper cones were all shot front and rear, but the door subs were/are perfect. The Polk sub channel is 2 ohm, so wiring in series with the two 2 ohm doors provides a sound level I didn't think would be available from those 5-1//4" subs. So many good ways to kill that rat.
So true. Maybe would have done something similiar if i had to do over, but would still add the passenger well sub. It doesnt really take away any leg room.

The way i did my install i can put it back to stock in a couple of hours maybe less. I wanted the capability to stream from my phone, but other solutions for that too.

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