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Old 02-05-2018, 03:26 PM   #1
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P1341 - What's Really the Problem

Hi all:

While driving in town today, the CEL popped on. It was steady, not flashing, and the code was P1341, Porsche fault code 174, camshaft adjustment bank 1 below limit value

I checked the camshaft deviations and the camshaft actual positions at idle and 3000 RPMs with the engine at operating temperature. Here's what I found. Both camshaft deviations were about -2.4 degrees. Actual camshaft positions were something like -1.75 degrees at idle and 24 degrees at 3000 RPMs.

It looks to me like the variocams are working just fine. Could this be something as simple as a cam position sensor going bad?

Thanks

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Old 02-06-2018, 06:43 PM   #2
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Hi all:

This is a follow up. After clearing the code yesterday, I drove the car on several local trips. Today, P1341 returned.

Everything looked normal at idle. Camshaft deviations were within spec and camshaft positions were normal. When spinning up the engine to 3000 RPMs, bank 1's camshaft only advanced to 8 degrees whereas bank 2 advanced to 24 degrees like yesterday.

It looks like either bank 1's solenoid is failing or the entire actuator itself. It's possible although I'd think unlikely, that the crankshaft position sensor is providing bad readings.

Is there a way to determine which part is failing? For example, can I activate the variocams with my Durametric. Or is there some other test that I can do?

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Old 06-08-2018, 06:30 PM   #3
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Hi all:

I'd like your help placing the following bet. Option 1: replace the bank 1 variocam solenoid for about $1500. Option 2: replace the bank 1 variocam actuator completely for about $3500.

Since this 1341 problem first popped up, the CEL has gone off for several days and then come back on for several days. The on/off again cycle has happened multiple times over the last 1000 miles.

The local independent looked into the problem and found that the following. Compared to the bank 2 actuator, the bank 1 actuator adjusts camshaft angle slowly. In other words, bank 2 seems to adjust instantly whereas bank 1 takes several seconds to adjust fully. The indie showed me the graph to prove this.

To me, this slow reaction sounds like a dying solenoid. If I bet wrong by replacing the solenoid and and its the actuator, I'll have flushed the $1500 down the drain and have to go to option 2.

If you were in my shoes, would you drop the $3500 right off the bat and go with option 2 or risk going with option 1. It's not that I can't afford the $3500. I just hate to spend $2000 that I don't have to.

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Old 06-08-2018, 06:53 PM   #4
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https://www.renntech.org/forums/tutorials/article/423-vario-cam-solenoid-swap-in-car/

failing actuator *may* leave green bits in sump. same route in to change actuator as it is solenoid, so perhaps open it up, pull solenoid and test. if ok then move on to actuator. if not, replace and button up.

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