Z-top thread - 986 Forum - The Community for Porsche Boxster & Cayman Owners

JBauer · 11-05-2017, 08:49 AM

This is getting fun :dance:

Test fitting

pidj · 11-05-2017, 08:53 AM

Judging by your other work, to date, this is going to look sweet! Can't wait for the final product pics

particlewave · 11-05-2017, 09:46 AM

Nice.

You should keep this all in one thread instead of 3 so we can follow.

JBauer · 11-05-2017, 09:56 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by particlewave

Nice.

You should keep this all in one thread instead of 3 so we can follow.

Ya this is going to be it. I just realized this morning that I've been kinda hijacking Brans thread 🙄

JBauer · 11-05-2017, 10:13 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by pidj

Judging by your other work, to date, this is going to look sweet! Can't wait for the final product pics

Thanks! 😀

You must of missed all the things I've screwed up threads.

JBauer · 11-06-2017, 10:14 AM

Opinions. My new top fits really nice without the two front tabs. The tabs that came with the top were the wrong ones. May get the right ones but who knows.
Using the factory tabs off my convertible top it latches unevenly. When side fits right, the other doesn't. Shift so the one that doesn't fits, the other side pulls uneven. I know it's not the top because of how it fits w/o the tabs. What part of the tabs do you think need trimmed? This is incase I'm unable to get a set from Zart. Passenger side fits:
.

The drivers side does this etc.

The tabs w/o top, both sides fit:

Switching sides on the tab has no effect. Where would you trim the tab, tabs?

MWS · 11-06-2017, 12:42 PM

Erg...the pain of fitting an aftermarket (or third party) piece. Looking at this logically, if the factory tabs fit with your factory soft top and fit with your other hard top, I would suggest that if any modification is to be made it should be to the aftermarket top. I say this because any alteration to the OEM part to accommodate the third party part will, in turn, cause issues when reverting back to the OEM (I hope this makes sense). If you do decide to alter the OEM, I would think it wise to check what the cost would be of an OEM replacement (as Porsche parts can be expensive).

Whatever you do, have fun....after all, this seems to be turning into a hobby for you.

JBauer · 11-06-2017, 02:40 PM

Cant alter the top. Replacement Porsche tabs are about $65 a pair, so not too bad but since I posted that last post the Ztop distributor has tabs but they want to know if I want offset tabs or centered tabs. I'm thinking I need one centered (drivers side) and one off centered (passenger side).
Reading my earlier post and viewing the pics below which should I take??

MWS · 11-06-2017, 07:53 PM

What I'd do... With both tabs removed, put some painters tape on both the top and on the car (left and right sides) then measure and mark the center line of the area on the top (where the tabs should fit) then on the car measure and mark the centerline of where the tabs fit. Measure the offset (if any) between the line on the top and the line on the car and this should let you know what to get from the distributor (also ask if they have the actual offset distances for the tabs that you will be purchasing). You might want to also ask if the tabs are solid or hollow cast...if solid, you could trim to fit, if hollow, then you got some work to do.

Best wishes.

BRAN · 11-07-2017, 01:19 AM

I would ask the vendor, if "off set" means
...both tabs off set or centered
OR
...a set with one centered & one off set tab (and if the sides are determined)
Further I would ask if it would be okay to return them for a switch, if you got the set / side mixed up.

You might want to look at the pictures in my thread:

My tabs seem asymmetrical / offset.
-- Passenger side "centered".
-- Driver side "off set".

I might have a wrong set, too?
The passenger side (a centered tab) just does not sit as centered as the driver sider tab (off set tab), gaps upfront are okay though.

JBauer · 11-07-2017, 05:34 AM

Thanks Bran, after studying your pics and looking at mine. I'm guessing that I need one center and one off centered also. Just not sure which side should be centered and which offset since your saying that your combination may not be right. I'll ask the vendors opinions. I'm wondering how they decide what to send with the kids?
I'll post what i find out.
If you or anyone else has an opinion please what zi should go for let me know.

Thanks again.

BRAN · 11-07-2017, 06:56 AM

some fast shots of the tabs...kind of difficult to take proper pics of them

driver side

passenger side

that passenger side tab might actually be the reason for the passenger side fitment gap not being 100% even...hmmmmm

JBauer · 11-07-2017, 08:47 AM

So what do you think? My problem is I can't for sure know what I need.
Oh and also....
Progress pics front latched without tabs. Rear hatch latched but latch not adjusted. Both spin lock clamped. Still a little high in places but with the tabs in it may change the fit so I'm done until I get them.

[img]

JBauer · 11-07-2017, 08:50 AM

Progress pics Continued. More down there 👇🙂

BRAN · 11-07-2017, 09:50 AM

I see you cut more of the little sides...driver side looks good, don't take any more off.
Passenger side...might want to take just a little more off, hard to tell.
Obviously, the passenger side seems the "problematic" one. Gap/fitment is not as good as on the driver's side. And it seems not to sink in as good. Just like mine or most others I have seen.
There should be a solution, somehow.
I am impressed, how good the hatch sits in place (hinges installed).
We will see, how it will work out with the new tabs.

Looks promising, JB.

JBauer · 11-07-2017, 10:29 AM

Ya a little too much on drivers. Passenger needs a little. I've got new moldings coming, those are just stuck on. I broke them. Once I get ones to really put on and the tabs I can start again. 😀

JBauer · 11-07-2017, 11:26 AM

Hey Bran, I dont know if you did this, or what the consequences of would be but if you take off this great big thick rubber molding look what happens.

It's almost completely flush and if I add just a little pressure it is 100% flush :dance::dance::dance:

BRAN · 11-07-2017, 01:02 PM

wow...where exactly did you take it off? The clam shell area?
Just consider, that the window will add a few pounds and the latch will lock and "keep" the TOP down as well. If it took away a few mm, then that might do the final trick.

JB, could you take a few close up pics of your hinges for me, please? I wonder why mine are so troublesome, that I had to grind extended holes into the hinges to be able to move the hatch towards the spoiler.

Thanks.

JBauer · 11-07-2017, 02:07 PM

Here's the rubber seal I took off from around top of clamshell hole and the hinges. Unfortunately I just took them off. I bought them used off Woody. I don't know what year they are from. Another thing ive discovered it the only thing, I think keeping it from being completely flush at the molding by the door is the spin locks. I grinded mine at the post so it would be flush but the spinlock wont lower it enough to make it flush. I may take the spin lock shaft thing off my factory top just to see if they are shorter. They are kinda pricey new tho

itsnotanova · 11-08-2017, 02:13 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by BRAN

JB, could you take a few close up pics of your hinges for me, please? I wonder why mine are so troublesome, that I had to grind extended holes into the hinges to be able to move the hatch towards the spoiler.

Thanks.

If you bought them used, maybe they sold you the front hinges and not the rear? The hinges I sold JBuaer were off a 2001 or 98. I can't remember which one but I believe they're all the same from1997-04.