Z-top thread

[JBauer]

Hey Bran, I dont know if you did this, or what the consequences of would be but if you take off this great big thick rubber molding look what happens.




It's almost completely flush and if I add just a little pressure it is 100% flush :dance::dance::dance:

[BRAN]

wow...where exactly did you take it off? The clam shell area?
Just consider, that the window will add a few pounds and the latch will lock and "keep" the TOP down as well. If it took away a few mm, then that might do the final trick.

JB, could you take a few close up pics of your hinges for me, please? I wonder why mine are so troublesome, that I had to grind extended holes into the hinges to be able to move the hatch towards the spoiler.

Thanks.

[JBauer]

Here's the rubber seal I took off from around top of clamshell hole and the hinges. Unfortunately I just took them off. I bought them used off Woody. I don't know what year they are from. Another thing ive discovered it the only thing, I think keeping it from being completely flush at the molding by the door is the spin locks. I grinded mine at the post so it would be flush but the spinlock wont lower it enough to make it flush. I may take the spin lock shaft thing off my factory top just to see if they are shorter. They are kinda pricey new tho

[itsnotanova]

Originally Posted by BRAN

JB, could you take a few close up pics of your hinges for me, please? I wonder why mine are so troublesome, that I had to grind extended holes into the hinges to be able to move the hatch towards the spoiler.

Thanks.

If you bought them used, maybe they sold you the front hinges and not the rear? The hinges I sold JBuaer were off a 2001 or 98. I can't remember which one but I believe they're all the same from1997-04.

[JBauer]

Its not the spinlock shafts. They are the same length on factory. Don't know if you can tell by this pic but pass side is flush. Hatch on without hinges, latched. It won't go any lower even with weight or downward pressure. Still waiting for small molding piece so i can make the final, very minor trimming. I'm going to work on driver's side today its almost flush. Got tired last night. I'll update as soon as I see how that's going to go.

[JBauer]

Originally Posted by itsnotanova

If you bought them used, maybe they sold you the front hinges and not the rear? The hinges I sold JBuaer were off a 2001 or 98. I can't remember which one but I believe they're all the same from1997-04.

I believe Bran bought new hinges. Maybe they are too tightly put together being new? Mine fit really nice. ��

[BRAN]

Originally Posted by itsnotanova

If you bought them used, maybe they sold you the front hinges and not the rear? The hinges I sold JBuaer were off a 2001 or 98. I can't remember which one but I believe they're all the same from1997-04.

Hmmm....I bought mine brand new from my dealership:
98651215101
98651215201

If I use the standard holes, the hatch sits too high up and too up front.
So I extended the holes in the hinges...will see how it fits with the modifications

@JB: What screws did you use for the hatch? Manual says "not to use wrong screws", but does not mention what the correct ones are for the hatch...lol...

[JBauer]

Originally Posted by BRAN

Hmmm....I bought mine brand new from my dealership:
98651215101
98651215201

If I use the standard holes, the hatch sits too high up and too up front.
So I extended the holes in the hinges...will see how it fits with the modifications

@JB: What screws did you use for the hatch? Manual says "not to use wrong screws", but does not mention what the correct ones are for the hatch...lol...

I used the factory bolts. That way I cant lose them and the fit great.

[BRAN]

I checked the rubber seal underneath the TOP...it sits on it.
But I think it should, to keep moisture/water away. So I would say to keep it where it is. Nonetheless a cool idea to let the TOP sink extra mm.

[JBauer]

Originally Posted by BRAN

I checked the rubber seal underneath the TOP...it sits on it.
But I think it should, to keep moisture/water away. So I would say to keep it where it is. Nonetheless a cool idea to let the TOP sink extra mm.

Ya I thought about that. I'm thinking about replacing it with something rubber that is thinner.

[BRAN]

some plug'n'play mods, takes 10secs now to cable connect the Z-top.
I pulled the cables out for a pic, 3rd brake light and rear window defroster.
I usually route them underneath the TOP.

What I bought:
OEM cables:
-cable adapter Hardtop 98661208300
-REAR 3RD BRAKE LIGHT WIRING HARNESS WIRE 99661204100
aftermarket stuff:
-CABLE CONNECTORS 9 STCK1.0 - 2.5MM POSI LOCK PL601
-car, waterproof male/female connectors
-crimps etc..

[JBauer]

I'll definitely pickup some those. We wiring and windows should be a challenge.

Thanks again

[JBauer]

Getting the fit pretty close but have a bow in the hatch that's bugging me. The hatch doesn't seem to be hitting anywhere. I'm starting to think it's just bowed. Tomorrow I'll investigate further.

[JBauer]

Bran, no need to remove your clamshell gasket to get a better fit. All you need to do is pop it loose and remove this thing. It just clips to the bottom of the gasket a few inches from the end it on each side. That's what I believe was keeping the top from seating better. It's almost a 1/2 inch thick. Those remove, gasket back on I see no diff from the fit with gasket removed :dance:
Oh and does anyone know what this is for?

[JBauer]

Started trim today on my top to try to get the bow out of my decklid.
Sorry I have no idea why these pics are all diff ways. The pic were loaded right side up
Measure twice, grind once:



Several have told me they had to wallow out the holes in his their hinges to fit but after assessing the situation I decided to also shave off the FGlass where the hinges were bottoming out.


The hinges will now adjust to the lowest level possible but I think I'm going to have to shave a little more at the contact points to get rid of the bow.
Better but not gone yet.

[MWS]

Originally Posted by JBauer

Oh and does anyone know what this is for?

If you can make out the p/n, search the .pdf of PET catalog, but my guess is an alignment bracket for the gasket or a stop for the frunk hood, but then again just a guess.

[particlewave]

Nice work
They really should have just eliminated that trim piece with the top.

[JBauer]

Originally Posted by particlewave

Nice work
They really should have just eliminated that trim piece with the top.

Agree It would of been easy to make it cover that area.

[MWS]

Looking good! I can understand being a perfectionist (as for me, NOTHING is ever perfect), but as you are getting very close, I might make a small suggestion.... With the top and the trunk lid being F/G, an as the trunk will be opened and closed, you might want to (God forgive me here) say "good enough" as I fear the shifting of top due to vehicle movement and the opening and closing of the trunk "might" present some alignment issues later on. I would just hate to see you spend hundreds of hours achieving perfection only to have an issue present next month. I guess my point is that if you accept some panel gap issues now, they won't be as maddening if they happen later on.

BTW, nice job with the rattle-can...has that ever been said before?

[JBauer]

Originally Posted by MWS

Looking good! I can understand being a perfectionist (as for me, NOTHING is ever perfect), but as you are getting very close, I might make a small suggestion.... With the top and the trunk lid being F/G, an as the trunk will be opened and closed, you might want to (God forgive me here) say "good enough" as I fear the shifting of top due to vehicle movement and the opening and closing of the trunk "might" present some alignment issues later on. I would just hate to see you spend hundreds of hours achieving perfection only to have an issue present next month. I guess my point is that if you accept some panel gap issues now, they won't be as maddening if they happen later on.

BTW, nice job with the rattle-can...has that ever been said before?

I'm going to give it one more day. I want it a close as possible fit.