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Old 09-02-2017, 01:04 PM   #1
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Thanks Monty!
We know for sure that the coolant was coming from the overflow. The mechanic had it on the lift yesterday and showed me. I just looked again (OCD) and there are only a few drops on the garage floor.
One other question, there's nowhere to get a German oil filter (Hengst is what I like to use on this Sat of a 3 day weeked. I found this at Autozone: STP Oil Filter S8278 - Read Reviews on STP #S8278

I guess it's going to have to do as it's all I can find within a short distance to go pick it up. I think it will hold me over until I change the oil again which will be in way less than 5k just to play it safe.
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Old 09-02-2017, 01:11 PM   #2
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Yes I have no doubt it's coming from the overflow. The coolant cap and the purge valve are in the overflow formed into the top of the expansion tank. With the cover off you should be able to open the trunk and see the coolant leaking. Just don't attempt to tighten when leaking!
Do you have a NAPA nearby? I think they carry the Hengst filter but I'd put a WIX/NAPA gold in if they have it.

Last edited by 911monty; 09-02-2017 at 01:22 PM.
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Old 09-02-2017, 10:25 PM   #3
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Looks like its time to bring the car to a mechanic/shop. These folks learn all about car diagnostic and carry most if not all the checks that you've described in this thread. Kind of a second nature to them mate... all it needs is a pressure test kit, which they 'all' have anyway.

Any reason you don't want to give the car to a mechanic? If you want to keep it that's what I'd recommend you to do
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Old 09-02-2017, 10:35 PM   #4
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No question that my indy can do it. He's $140 an hour though.

I'd also like to see and do as much as I possibly can before I take it to him as well.

It's a 3 day weekend here and he's not in until Tues anyway.

I also think that the more information I can give him, the better.

And hey, I may just stumble on to the solution and save some $$

When he gave me the new cap on Friday and I called him to tell him i was still leaking his reply was, "This is where it gets complicated"

I survived cancer, I'll survive this.

Thanks for the solid advice nine8Six
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Old 09-02-2017, 10:48 PM   #5
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No question that my indy can do it. He's $140 an hour though.
Totally feel you. That is the main reason I've purchased a VW Lavida 1.4TSI under warranty. I just can't afford to drive a Porsche everyday man, even less afford to buy a new one under warranty. One day I will tough One day lollll

Try to see if you can get a (cheap) pressure test kit with a Porsche adapter for less than $40~50. If this exist?... Harbor freight? Autozone....

WP is fine imo... the car would overheat instantly if you'd have failed impeller(s). Certainly would run much hotter that what you are describing anyway.
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Old 09-02-2017, 11:24 PM   #6
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The reality of my situation is that I am a recent cancer survivor.
I was laid off during my treatments and had been doing delivery work that involved using the vehicle while I looked for a real job.
I was able to afford the necessary maintenance until the meltdown.
I'm at the crossroads now of just how much more I can put into this car to hopefully keep it for a few years while I save up some cash.
Or to cut my losses and get out of it if it's a money pit.

I'd like to keep the trips to the $140/hour guy to a minimum right now while I evaluate what my next move is going to be.

If there are things I can do, I want to try those first.

My experience so far with The Boxster has been good medicine while I recover.

It brings joy into my life and that **************** eating grin that anyone who drives one knows.

That is worth fighting for.
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Old 09-03-2017, 02:04 AM   #7
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The reality of my situation is that I am a recent cancer survivor.
Great hope for those who are fighting, thanks for sharing.

Survivor myself. Survived suicide tendencies only one week ago (also Porsche/part/price related lollll). First time it even happen to me and hope it doesn't again. Porsche cars looks so much better when they work. Hope you'll (our indy, I suspect) get it fixed
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Old 09-03-2017, 01:25 AM   #8
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If you are getting coolant running from the tank overflow pipe it can only come from two sources , the cap or the bleeder valve .You can see both of these if you remove the cover plate below the coolant cap / oil filler cap , neither should leak .As JFP says the only sure fire way to bleed this system is to apply vacuum .If you have a compressor an Airlift vacuum bleeder is about $100 , if you don't I have used a Harbour Freight vacuum brake bleeder $10 and a rubber bung ,a bit slower but it worked ok. Utube the operation detail .I think you still have air in the system , the heater circuit can be the problem as the pipes are at the top of the core
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Old 09-03-2017, 05:33 PM   #9
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OK, first of all, calm down. No, the tank is not under pressure when the car is cold. But I have some concerns that unless the lines that broke in the first place were correctly reconnected, you have been chasing your tail. If memory serves, you broke the line leading off the top of the oil cooler; if that line was not correctly reconnected to the tank, coolant is going to flow all over the place as soon as the car is started.

I would most strongly recommend you get your cooling system pressure tested. That will immediately tell you if it is tight or not; I suspect it is not.
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Old 09-03-2017, 05:41 PM   #10
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Thanks JFP.

You are correct, the quick disconnect on the line from the top of the oil cooler melted and blew.

I'm taking deep breaths.....
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Old 09-03-2017, 05:43 PM   #11
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A system pressure test takes about 5 min to do, and will immediately tell you where you are. It does require a special tool and the correct adaptor to attach to your tank (the adaptor is for a VW), but will immediately tell you if your cooling system is closed up or open to the atmosphere. I suspect that is where you are.
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Old 09-04-2017, 01:01 PM   #12
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You really shouldn't mess with something you don't understand.
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Old 09-04-2017, 01:04 PM   #13
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Very true.

I did loosen the belt and feel the water pump pulley.

I am pretty certain that I felt vertical play in the bearing, which can't be good.

I'm not doing anything else except going to the mechanic tomorrow.

I'm in over my head.

At least I have a little bit more information to give him.

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Old 09-06-2017, 07:40 AM   #14
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I talked to the mechanic at length yesterday.
He wants $1100 to replace the water pump and thermostat!
I'm not willing to gamble that kind of money at this point.
Call me crazy, but I'm going to DIY the water pump and thermostat, flush the system, clean the front radiators, and see what happens.
I'll gamble the $300, some skinned knuckles perhaps, and an afternoon to see what's going on. If it still leaks or the head gasket is blown or worse, than it's either for sale or to the scrap yard it goes.
On the other hand, if it solves my problem and best case scenario is I get some more life out of the car or can sell it while it's running.
Worst case is I'm out $300 and some time.
Inspecting the impeller will reveal a lot and where to go from there.
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Old 09-06-2017, 04:00 PM   #15
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Call me crazy, but I'm going to DIY the water pump and thermostat, flush the system, clean the front radiators, and see what happens.
Great call.
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Old 09-06-2017, 12:21 PM   #16
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I have a nearly new waterpump (1k miles) that I'll give you for a great price.

let me know.
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Old 09-06-2017, 04:36 PM   #17
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I ordered the parts from Pelican today and a flex 10mm socket, which seems to be the trick for those pesky water pump bolts.

I did clean out the radiators today.
They look like that had never been done, or at least not in a long, long time.
But, the driver side air dam disintegrated when I unbolted it - cracked down the middle.
Not completely in half, so I should be able to salvage it for a little while as I proceed along to see what's going on. The plastic mush have been so dry and brittle from all those miles a few inches off the road in the hot dry air that it just gave way.

Pretty minor, all things considered.

One question, depending on what I find with the water pump (shot bearing is what I'm thinking) do I want to flush the car with a garden hose and tap water or fill it with distilled water completely, run it, drain it, and then put in the 50/50 mix?

I'm holding good thoughts on this working out.

Last edited by robdelorenzo; 09-06-2017 at 04:38 PM.
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Old 09-06-2017, 07:27 PM   #18
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Perhaps, I missed it by not reading every post.

I would think a mechanic could pressure test the cooling system and narrow down the source of the leak. With such information in hand, one could decide what things to do 1st, 2nd, etc.
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Old 09-08-2017, 02:52 PM   #19
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Some of you may be sick of reading this, but here goes.

I pulled out the water pump and thermostat today.
Tested the thermostat in a pot of boiling water and it opened, so I know that works.

The water pump did have a blade or two that appeared to have had some of the blade sanded down a bit. Nothing too major, but when I compared it to the new pump and used a magnifier, it really looks like it to me.

I'm going to flush the car a few times tomorrow and see what happens.
I'm really not quite sure how anything will be any different as the thermostat is good, the pump bearing spins fine and other than a barely noticeable amount of impeller being sanded off, nothing's changed.

Will a new pump and thermostat, coolant overflow cap, flush, fill, and I also cleaned out a small village of hobbits worth of crap out of the radiators (which I'm sure was blocking some air flow) make any difference or do I have bigger problems?

The coolant had no oil in it and was pink and the oil was dark, but did not have coolant in it when I changed it a few days ago.

I'm keeping my fingers crossed that the coolant overflow will stop.

I will know more tomorrow and thanks for the help and encouragement.

I now know how to do a thermostat and water pump!

Last edited by robdelorenzo; 09-08-2017 at 02:54 PM.
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Old 09-09-2017, 04:20 AM   #20
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Some of you may be sick of reading this
Absolutely not my friend, you got it all wrong! Anything car related is good to go here. I'm enjoying reading your updates in fact. Sure it will be 10x more exiting to read when you'll finally fixed it tough

Don't give up is all I can propose! Also proposing a pressure test on the system to ensure it is water tight. Slight drop of pressure in that thing and the heat is going to take over and will eventually manage to piss out all of that pink stuff (entirely, if not careful refilling regularly lolll). Got to be sealed correctly.

Just do it!
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