Afraid of the answer.....

[robdelorenzo]

I've decided to have the idie take a look at things.
Yes, I could probably do the work and save the labor cost, but what's really important to me is his opinion once the engine runs again and gets up to temp.
I really hope I didn't kill my car.
I'll report back this afternoon.
You guys have been most helpful in gathering the info before deciding what to do.
So it's basically spend the $$, roll them bones, and see what's next....

[seningen]

Originally Posted by Qmulus

It is just semantics, but the alternator clutch/pulley did not shear off, it spun off. If it had sheared the shaft, you would have a snapped off alternator shaft. It looks to me like you could just install a new clutch/pulley assembly and it would be OK. The alternator has a one-way clutch on it so it will continue to spin and not throw the belt when you shift. This is kind of unique and not usually seen on other cars. What may have happened is that the clutch seized (they do fail occasionally) and when you shifted the momentum of the alternator unscrewed the pulley from the shaft and the pulley fell away. Normally the one-way clutch would slip in that situation, as it was designed to do. After that, the temperature and pressure in the cooling system got so high that the weakest point failed (that plastic fitting) and the cooling system blew. I don't understand why the cap wouldn't vent though...

That is my theory anyway. I bet if you look where this happened you will find the pulley pretty much intact on the street.

This was my point -- it did not look like it sheared to me...

My guess is you will be back on the road in no time --

Mike

[robdelorenzo]

I just dropped off the car.
We will see what he says in the next day or two.

This message board and it's members are invaluable.
Thanks to all of you!

[jcslocum]

You can trust Woody with used parts. He's been a supplier to us and we have always been treated VERY well. Don't get overcharged with "factory" parts....

[robdelorenzo]

No question Woody has been most helpful in helping me figure out what to do.
He is a good man and a valuable resource to all of us.

[robdelorenzo]

Got the car back from the mechanic. New alternator pulley and clutch, new belt, fixed hose leak. He told me he brought it up to temperature and it didn't leak or overheat.
He even told me that he drove it. I drove it for maybe an hour and there didn't seem to be any problems. I thought that I had dodged a bullet. The temp gauge never got above 195 the whole time, even when I got home.

Then as soon as I got home and pulled into the garage and stopped the motor, I heard a hissing sound and coolant leaking out onto the floor by the passenger rear wheel. The inside of the trunk was dry, as well.

Not a whole lot of coolant leaked out, but it doesn't look good, does it?
What would the symptoms of a blown head gasket be?
Isn't there a coolant overflow back there? Am I deluding myself thinking that it just may have been spitting out some overflow?
I can't call the mechanic until the morning, but what should I look for in the mean time?

edit: I just looked again, the oil is clean the coolant is pink and there does not appear to be any intermix.
Is it possible it's just burping out air or am I delusional?

[nicecar]

there is an overflow tube located by passenger rear wheel. I think that there might be air trapped in the system and it has to be bled. Wait for the experts to chime in. In the meantime do search air trapped and how to use the bleeder valve on top of coolant tank. Again I could be totally wrong but I have been down that road. How much coolant?They say to drive thru a couple heat cycles with valve open. My solution was to back up on ramps and run to purge....worked great. Good Luck and I am sure you will be fine soon!

[Lew]

Originally Posted by robdelorenzo

Got the car back from the mechanic. New alternator pulley and clutch, new belt, fixed hose leak. He told me he brought it up to temperature and it didn't leak or overheat.
He even told me that he drove it. I drove it for maybe an hour and there didn't seem to be any problems. I thought that I had dodged a bullet. The temp gauge never got above 195 the whole time, even when I got home.

Then as soon as I got home and pulled into the garage and stopped the motor, I heard a hissing sound and coolant leaking out onto the floor by the passenger rear wheel. The inside of the trunk was dry, as well.

Not a whole lot of coolant leaked out, but it doesn't look good, does it?
What would the symptoms of a blown head gasket be?
Isn't there a coolant overflow back there? Am I deluding myself thinking that it just may have been spitting out some overflow?
I can't call the mechanic until the morning, but what should I look for in the mean time?


edit: I just looked again, the oil is clean the coolant is pink and there does not appear to be any intermix.
Is it possible it's just burping out air or am I delusional?

The Mechanic said he drove it.....strange he didn't hear the hissing and see coolant on the shop floor Something is not right.....How much collant leaked on the floor?

[robdelorenzo]

Maybe a 1/2 cup of coolant. Enough to be noticeable. The hissing sound is what caught my attention.
The mechanic is Rob Wessels at Dutch Treat here in LA. He's supposed to be very good and seems like a decent guy, so I don't think that's an issue.

I'm really disappointed and concerned.
I don't know what's going on now.
I'm a recent cancer survivor, I was laid off during treatment and I bought this car as a celebratory gift and project to bring myself (and the car) back to life.
At this point do I sell it as is and get out from under it? Keep a close eye on things, try driving it locally a bit more tomorrow and try to see what's going on?
Would a failing head gasket do this? Did the overheating it kill it and it's dying a slow death? Or is it just in need of more burping?
It ran fine, no loss of power or any issues, didn't budge the temp gauge, just started pissing a bit when I got home.
What do I do?

[itsnotanova]

Watch your oil and coolant for intermixing and watch for excessive coolant and oil usage. If everything seems normal over the next few weeks, you're probably in the clear. You seem very quick to want to label the motor as being blown. Don't throw in the towel just yet. While driving a car with blinking lights for 20-30 minutes is very very bad, you more than likely dodged a bullet. I'm guessing you still have air in the system. Find the steepest hill you can find, park your car nose down and open the bleed valve.

[Lew]

Originally Posted by robdelorenzo

Maybe a 1/2 cup of coolant. Enough to be noticeable. The hissing sound is what caught my attention.
The mechanic is Rob Wessels at Dutch Treat here in LA. He's supposed to be very good and seems like a decent guy, so I don't think that's an issue.

Have you contacted the mechanic about your problem? If it were me I would take the car back to him and let him check out the problem. Remember he said it didn't overheat or leak......

[911monty]

I'm with the possible air still in the system camp. However is the coolant expansion tank cap the one that was on during the overheating event? If so it could be weak, I'd replace.

[p3230]

I'm a recent cancer survivor, I was laid off during treatment and I bought this car as a celebratory gift and project to bring myself (and the car) back to life.
At this point do I sell it as is and get out from under it? Keep a close eye on things, try driving it locally a bit more tomorrow and try to see what's going on?

Hey I'm also a cancer survivor and bought this car after 3 years of being free from that disease. The thing is do like itsnotanova said and give that a try before giving up I also had my share of problems with mine. Don't forget you didn't give up on life so don't give up on the car.

[robdelorenzo]

Good encouragement!
Thank you.

[seningen]

Originally Posted by Lew

The Mechanic said he drove it.....strange he didn't hear the hissing and see coolant on the shop floor Something is not right.....How much collant leaked on the floor?

I know this may sound over simple -- but I had this happen to me coming off of the track one time.

I was double checking everything before I went on track -- even undid the water cap and screwed it back on.

As I came off track -- temperature started to rise -- and it was peeing all over the paddock, right in front of the right rear tire.

I thought my weekend was shot. Water pump for sure. NOPE -- dummy me I had cross threaded the screw on cap.

Found a jug, filled it with water. Opened the pressure vent, and carefully put the cap back on. Went out and ran the next session, took it a little easy -- no issues ever again.

Don't give up on things... Just be diligent and work through some of the kinks...

Mike

[911monty]

There is a possibility the residue in the tank is from the previous water pump. Did you see the removed pump? I don't think your WP saw high enough temps to melt or cause the impeller to fail since they are designed to operate in conditions to 220 deg. Once the system lost pressure steam is only ~212 deg. Yes the cylinders no doubt saw much higher temps but with no coolant transferring that heat, the entire block would have to be heated to the failure point of the impeller. If that had happened I don't think your engine would be running now. The caveat to this is, was there collateral damage to the pump when the alternator failed? Since the car appears to not be overheating while driving then the simplest step is bleed and drive again.
However if this was my car, in order to have any confidence in it, I'd pull the WP and check it's condition. if good, a new gasket and a new thermostat and you can have some confidence that your coolant circulating system is at least functional. If bad then the next steps can be considered to find the parts.

[robdelorenzo]

Thanks for that.
The mechanic insists that there's no air in the system, but I'm not convinced yet.

[MWS]

Sorry if this is overly obvious, but has a total system flush been done? I would suggest a flush, drive a while, maybe flush again, and see where you stand. Oh, and yes, get the new cap. I lost coolant about a year ago due to a bad cap (and I would have sworn it was something more serious).

Best wishes.

[robdelorenzo]

Thanks guys!
I am encouraged.
I just bled the system and then drove it up and down a very steep canyon road.
It's sitting in the garage now and only let out a few drops! from the overflow.
I'm going to let it cool down for a few hours and then drive it again.
Temp gauge stayed right around 190 which was good.
I need to change the oil from the meltdown tonight, which I have not done yet.
I also will also change out the water pump and thermostat as soon as I can swing it.
I will also need to flush the whole system.
I like the idea of multiple flushes, but not $120 in coolant again (still cheap insurance)
And yes, I did see the old pump when it was removed and all of the vanes were intact.
But so far, so good!
This is a new cap as of yesterday. I read on here to drive for a few days with the bleeder valve open. Is that a good idea? One guy said that's what they do when they race Boxsters. I'm just a daily driver guy, though.
This board is a lifesaver and I'm beginning to think that my mechanic is a "Worst case scenario" thinker. He's right in the fact that he doesn't cut corners and does lay out all possibilities though.
I LOVE my Boxster and need to listen to the warnings from now on.

[911monty]

Good news! BUT get that oil out of there before you drive again!!! That oil has done a marvelous job but should be changed out ASAP since I'm sure it's suffered from Thermal Breakdown and if any engine deserves it I think this one qualifies. And yes leave the bleeder open and the cover off and see if you can identify where the coolant is leaking from. Congratulations on maintaining sanity/