Dealer incompetence just dumbfounds me

[blinkwatt]

I took my wheel to a indepdent shop "supposedly highly recommended" to work on Porsche wheels,I asked them to mount a tire and balance it. I get the damn wheel and tire back and the tire pressure was up to almost 70psi!!!!!!! Needless to say I let the air out the moment I read that.

[mach schnell]

and people said i was reacting too quickly (remember 4 trips to 2 different dealerships in the span of 5 weeks) re: my vibration problem and the decision to dump the car rather than continue to subject myself to dealer imcompetence!

now i can only hope that bmw has some competent folks working for them.

[rctboxsters]

Mach,

Never had a problem with the BMW services while the car was under warranty.

Enjoy your ride!

Richard

[MNBoxster]

Hi,

Economics aside, the horror stories stated here are exactly why I prefer to do my own work - I know it's done right!

Good Job on the Brakes, but I have to say that if you are not experienced, you need to have someone who knows assist you the first time. Also, you need to pay attention to properly lubing the brake hardware to insure a Caliper doesn't stick.

Also measure your rotor thickness to make certain that you're within spec. Typically, these rotors will go through two sets of pads and then they need replacing. This wear is accelerated with the use of more agressive Track or Street/Track pads. Failure to do so will cause the pistons to expand too much and corrode which then acts to prematurely wear the seals requiring rebuild/replacement of the calipers.

Runout should also be checked as well for maximum Braking efficiency and Pad wear. Failure to do these checks can be just as bad as not having the wheels properly torqued. You do it while you're in there because you're not in there every week, month or even year.

Changing Pads, while not Brain Surgery, is still Surgery and a certain amount of know-how is necessary to insure that both you, and the people you share the road with, remain safe...

Happy Motoring!... Jim'99

[EPIQTodd]

Originally Posted by MNBoxster

Hi,

Economics aside, the horror stories stated here are exactly why I prefer to do my own work - I know it's done right!

Good Job on the Brakes, but I have to say that if you are not experienced, you need to have someone who knows assist you the first time. Also, you need to pay attention to properly lubing the brake hardware to insure a Caliper doesn't stick and also measure your rotor thickness to make certain that you're within spec. Typically, these rotors will go through two sets of pads and then they need replacing. This wear is accelerated with the use of more agressive Track or Street/Track pads. Failure to do so will cause the pistons to expand too much and corrode which then acts to prematurely wear the seals requiring rebuild/replacement of the calipers. Runout should also be checked as well for maximum Braking efficiency and Pad wear. Failure to do these checks can be just as bad as not having the wheels properly torqued.

Changing Pads, while not Brain Surgery, is still Surgery and a certain amount of know-how is necessary to insure that both you, and the people you share the road with, remain safe...

Happy Motoring!... Jim'99

Jim, all good stuff, thanks, and rest assured my car is well inspected. All POC events it has a full inspection by a qualified motorsports technician, as required. I see how easy it is to replace the rotors, also, so I'm looking forward to that, even though it is more money...

Where would you lube the brake hardware and what would you use to lube it?

[MNBoxster]

Originally Posted by EPIQTodd

Jim, all good stuff, thanks, and rest assured my car is well inspected. All POC events it has a full inspection by a qualified motorsports technician, as required. I see how easy it is to replace the rotors, also, so I'm looking forward to that, even though it is more money...

Where would you lube the brake hardware and what would you use to lube it?

Hi,

Typically, the Brake grease is part of the Pads fitment kit in the form of a capsule or small tube. Porsche recommends replacement of these parts every time the pads are replaced. From the Dealer Service Manual: "Fit new spreading spring, new holding pin and new retainer (retaining clip) These parts are available as a repair set and must be "renewed" each time the pads are replaced."

Most people believe they can get by with reusing the existing hardware, especially when the cost of new is factored in. The PN# for the Front, non-S Brakes is: 996.351.959.01 - list $24.95 and Rear, non-S Brakes is: 996.352.959.01 - list $35.00. I don't have the 'S' Brakes repair kit PN numbers. Neither Porsche or I recommend reusing this hardware, but if you insist, at least inspect it, clean it up with emery cloth to remove any dust or corrosion and then apply new grease.

You use High Temp Waterproof Brake Grease. Apply sparingly to the contact points where the piston meets the rear metal surface of the pad assembly, and to the holding pins. This grease "lubricates" the opposing vibrating surfaces, and therefore reduces or eliminates the resultant squeal and allows the pads to move freely and smoothly. Additionally, it provides some corrosion protection to the Pins as well. Be careful not to use too much, or get any grease on the friction surfaces, or you won't have any brakes. Brake pad grease can be purchased separately at most any auto supply store. Hope this helps...

Happy Motoring!... Jim'99

[Perfectlap]

I guarantee you the tech who forgot to torque you lugs was a newbie.
Sooner or later the young pups are let loose at the dealership and they do these sort of things until someone like you chews someones arse out and they track down Jimmy. He learns a hard lesson and pays more attention.

On my last visit to the Porsha house, The kid (and I mean kid, couldn't have been over 21) who "checked" my soft top relay was obviously right out of Porsche school. My soft top relay was bad according to him. I had to point out to him and the service rep that the relay wasn't bad because I JUST INSTALLED A NEW ONE! Well turns out it was just loose.

My dealership is a very high volume shop. The garage looks like a aircraft hangar I must have counted 15 lifts. They need to hire more people and have one guy who checks all of the new guys works and does a checklist inspection of every car leaving.

which reminds me how much torque should the wheel lugs get?