Water in carpert behind lhs seat

[Aviator912]

I have had this car for 2 yesrs now but recently, (last few months) i have noticed water in the floor well behind the lhs (passenger) seat.

I have searched the forum and made sure the drain holes are clear (the one in the tray by the hood was blocked but i cleared this a few weeks ago).

I have dried the carpets twice now but they just get wet again,

Any ideas anybody?

Tks

[rexcramer]

Did you work on the window regulator on that side? If so, did you reinstall the plastic cover? Is the window going up and down correctly, when you pull the handles to open the door?

[Nedlands]

Hate to say this but your carpet probably never got fully dried out. The backing is about 2 inch thick foam. The water gets sacked in like a sponge, even a vacuum extraction machine won't fully dry it.
The only solution is to pull the carpet, dry it out fully for about a week inside a warm ventilated space and use the time to find out where the water is coming from.
On my car the foam drip trays around the roof drains were punctured and leaking. I replaced those, the sound deadening under them and sealed the lot with spray rubber seal. It was a ton of work but I now have a dry Boxster.
The design around the rear drains sucks.....

[Aviator912]

Thanks for ideas, I haven't taken any membranes off the door and the window operstes properly and the membrane at the back under the roof cover doesnt have any splits so I'm a bit stumped. If it was from the door, i guess the carpet would be wetter at higher level near the door. It appears to get wetter from the back bulkhead.
I read somewhere someone suggested you can accidentally detach a tube on tbe back drain point, but under the rubber mrmbrane there appears to be an outlet to the side... I have cleared this with a length of electrical cable and if i pour wster in it all drains by the wheel.

Cant work it out...

[Gelbster]

As a precaution do 2 things- particularly since you are in a wet environment:
1.Drill a drain hole in the lowest point of the pan under the seat near the immobilizer.
2. Seal the immobilizer in a ziplock bag
Look in Search for disasters that take hours and $$$ to diagnose and fix when these two cheap & simple precautions are ignored.
Cleaning and fixing the drains is good but there is no warning when they fail.If you are lucky you may smell the stagnant water before it corrodes the immobilizer .......

[BFeller]

Originally Posted by Nedlands

Hate to say this but your carpet probably never got fully dried out. The backing is about 2 inch thick foam. The water gets sacked in like a sponge, even a vacuum extraction machine won't fully dry it.
The only solution is to pull the carpet, dry it out fully for about a week inside a warm ventilated space and use the time to find out where the water is coming from.
On my car the foam drip trays around the roof drains were punctured and leaking. I replaced those, the sound deadening under them and sealed the lot with spray rubber seal. It was a ton of work but I now have a dry Boxster.
The design around the rear drains sucks.....

I agree with the idea of looking at foam trays. They can puncture if the rods for the top ever popped loose. It took a few searches to find my tears. I sealed them with silicone sealant to eliminate the leaks. Mine were way up front, near the mounts for the top. The leak can also come from door/window area as noted by Particlewave. There is a box that can be used to seal the immobilizer. It's fair price and piece of mind for an expensive repair.

[Gelbster]

"There is a box that can be used to seal the immobilizer. It's fair price and piece of mind for an expensive repair. "
Rubbermaid works well also at a fraction of the price.Drill the hole !

[Nedlands]

The boxes for the alarm ecu and drilling a hole are ok and all that but only address having a puddle in the car rather than avoiding getting one. Personally, I prefer a dry car which doesn't smell fousty and damp.
In addition to replacing my foam trays, I filled the extra space around the rear drains with expanding spray foam, trimmed it back and then sprayed the area under the trays with flex seal to give the poor design the best chance of working. New drip trays, then finished the job. A year later I have no leaks and dry carpets.
To find the source of the leak you need the carpet out. All of it! I then use talcum powder to coat the area and a water source to create a stream on the roof. The water will leave a trail on the talc coated surface which points to the source....
Good luck

[Aviator912]

Thanks chaps,

I think I'll look more closely at the foam trays, it sounds to me like that will be the most likely cause, but I can't see when they would have been damaged. The problem wasn't there over the Summer and I haven't had the hood down while the problem occurred. I checked the carpet at higher level near the doors and it is dry, so I don't think its tracking down inside the door.

The back section of carpet is also dry. All the electrics are bone dry under the seat, the water only looks as though settles behind the seat.

Somebody mentioned that it is possible to dislodge a tube inside the drain, how do you check this?

Tks

[particlewave]

Originally Posted by Nedlands

The boxes for the alarm ecu and drilling a hole are ok and all that but only address having a puddle in the car rather than avoiding getting one. Personally, I prefer a dry car which doesn't smell fousty and damp.
In addition to replacing my foam trays, I filled the extra space around the rear drains with expanding spray foam

Expanding foam absorbs water like a sponge. It will mold and you'll never get it dry (flex seal won't keep the water out indefinitely, either). Then your car will really stink.

The best tried and true preventative measures are to check your drains once per year (more often if you park outside) and to put the immobilizer in a sealed container.
Always have a backup.

[Aviator912]

I am still trying to solve this problem. I have now noticed that the gromet in tne drain to the side of the well, not the drip tray, the other one, is damaged. Does anybody know if you can change this and what are the actual tubes made of, can these be replaced, if so how much do you need to take appart to access the space?

[Gelbster]

to start - Get the Part Number from the diagrams on PET

[Aviator912]

Think its part number 986 514 241 00,

Has anybody fitted a replacement one of these? Not sur how you access the void where the tube is located..

[Anker]

Use the old tube to pull the new one through.

[bonesy]

Hi

Have you had any of the roof mechanism fail? Like the arms? Only was told when i bought my boxster (04) that they had just been replaced after failing. When they snap they pierce the foam water trap thats below them that pools the water and guides it in the rear boot towards the drains. Not long after our British weather changed i noticed the drivers side carpet wet behind the seat and the car inside constantly misting up easy. on investigation i found that when the arms fail the can rip the foam. It took a while to find the hole but by removing the trim from inside the car by the upper seatbelt anchor point i found the hole. These foam seals look a bi#*h to replace so i used a sealer gun & suitable sealer to seal the hole. Up to now the inside has remained dry.
The picture show the arm & foam seals
Hope this helps

[Gelbster]

Suggest you modify the drain holes slightly. There are also 2 in the frunk. Place some s/s mesh on the holes to eliminate debris. This is not fit and forget. You still have to remove debris.It just does not plug the drain. The official screens are expensive but it is easy to make a mushroom shaped piece of mesh to plug into the hole. An old sieve might be repurposed?