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- - Appropriate size Jack Stands? (http://986forum.com/forums/boxster-general-discussions/64828-appropriate-size-jack-stands.html)

Quote:

Originally Posted by Pdwight (Post 521536)

I went by the local HF store and was surprised how sturdy it is made, and along with my 20% off it made a pretty good deal. They had one mounted on a high lift jack and it seemed very sturdy. The jack had a lift height printed on it of 23 3/4 inches ( or somewhere there close). This with the lift of the arm/brace or whatever you want to call it should give you a lift height of well over 25 inches this would give a lot of working room at a very reasonable cost. Two jacks and two arms at less than $400, my question to anyone who has and has used one of these is will it go under our P Cars with the low profile jack ???

and is 25 to 27 inches enough to pull a transmission....if so this is a good alternative to a inexpensive lift. If this does work out and I eventually buy the jacks I would raise it to height and then place jack stands at 4 corners, even I would feel safe under this.

Problem for lifting the rear of the car - The jacking points are under the sills at either side, not at the rear. That is why I mentioned using 2 long frame jacks.
If you plan using your new cross=beam jack to get the car up on 4 jack stands , better to lift one side at a time and elevate the car sequentially -one side at a time in stages.
The HF adjustable cross beam is not long enough to reach both jack points . You would need to extend/reinforce it. Go back to HF and buy a MIG welder?
Check the GJ link I posted and these:
http://www.corvetteforum.com/forums/c6-corvette-general-discussion/2809584-will-this-cross-beam-adapter-work.html
http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=217325&showall=1

I am going to do my own lift bar. 2" square steel tube 3/8" thick with bolts at the ends whose heads fit into the jack point recesses. Should cost less than $100 for two. McMaster to the rescue.

McMaster is expensive ! Your local steel yard has all this.
The bolts If you measure the socket in the jacking point ,you'll realize a bolt head is a tedious shape to use.
I made some using flange head nuts and a bolt -upside down to what you propose. The leading threads of the protruding bolt shank act as a primary guide into the lift point socket Then 1/4" behind comes the nut.The nut almost fills the socket width. The flange shoulders actually rest on the face of the jacking point. A structural steel H.D. washer may help. Be careful it is not the tip of the bolt that supports the car ! You want the weight on the flange & /or the structural steel H.D. washer
Bolt Depot !

Thanks. Makes sense. Will look for steel yards around here.