Actually HF sell a Cross Beam Jack that is a pale imitation of this imaginative diy alternative. Problem with the diy version is stability but manageable with jack stands.
Steel Floor Jack Cross Beam
Some cross beams are adjustable for width. I use this specific jack -even on a full size diesel pick up - it is very sturdy and stable.It would be easy to widen to the dimensions shown in the diy alternative here.
http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=217325&showall=1
I also use 2 long frame HF jacks simultaneously You pump both together evenly ! The long frame floor jacks are no longer sold at HF but alternative brands are available elsewhere.
http://www.northerntool.com/shop/tools/product_200329613_200329613?cm_mmc=Google-pla-_-Auto%20Repair-_-Jacks-_-144795&ci_src=17588969&ci_sku=144795&gclid=CNjxof3 d5LkCFYl_Qgod-mYAdw

Thanks...good to know. Just looked under my car, and I think it would clear the skirts.

Haha, there are no simple answers, and you have to keep in mind most of the people on this forum are enthusiasts not mechanics so you will need to evaluate the information/opinions you get for yourself and determine what you think is the best/right way to do things. That said, there are a lot of super knowledgeable people on this forum!


Those Lift Bars look great, but they are model specific and $275 shipped, a bit pricey in my opinion. The problem with that Harbor Freight attempt at a lift bar is that it doesn't have a place to put the jack stands once you get the car into the air, since the bar is already using/covering the jack points.

+1 for the Harbor Freight Long/Low Jack Gelbster mentioned. That is what I use and it works great, and can reach the back of the engine cover/plate to lift both rear wheels at once.

My Esco stands have a minimum height of 13", which is doable, but getting the car onto the stands is somewhat terrifying. I think 15" minimum height is too high, without using a crib or some cut up 2x10" to get the car a bit higher when you start. I will be building a 2 or 3 stage wooden crib in 4" high sections before my next oil change.

If you saw the lift bars, you would understand why they are worth the money; they are incredibly well made and very strong. A car up on them is both high and very stable, even at heights above 20 inches. We have a couple of sets and used them both in the shop and at the track. I would highly recommend them to anyone working on jack stands.

I can't even remember what this post was about, but this cross beam thin from HF g is interesting.

I remember reading someone posted that when the HF ones are used you cannot inset the jack stands in position because the cross bar occupies the space you need to properly place them.

Is this true?

Is there another way around this problem?

Thx!!

Sure, they'll work but it's a matter of how much effort you want to put into it.

You're dealing with compromises. Chances are a jack that will fit under your Box may not have enough lift to clear 15" stands. So you have to lift twice. Or you drive onto some blocks before lifting to give you enough clearance for a larger jack to fit under the car.

My jack requires 5" of clearance and it barely fits under my PASM CSS. My JackPoint jack stands require 12" (probably 13 to get the cap lip to clear the stand) and it takes all the lift of my jack to get it to work. Going another 3-4" would take a lot of lift.

If you don't mind the time and effort of lifting twice, then buy the 15s. Otherwise, spring to a set for ea vehicle and save yourself lots of unnecessary effort down the road. Buy a set for the Box and it will be the best $40 you'll ever spend.

husker boxster,

I'm not sure if I totally follow you. It sounds like you are saying that 15" jack stands will require longer amounts of time and extra steps, whereas the 10" 2-ton jack stands will not.

Presumably this is a function of the garage lift and the range it offers. I'm not sure I understand why it will take longer to jack the car up to a 15" height. I mean I get it, it's 5 inches higher, but does that require additional step?

The jack I am going to buy tomorrow is the Daytona one from HF. That has a range from around 3" to a little over 20". Can you not just jack the car up to the 15" minimum height of the 6-ton jack stand?

If you jack will cover the 15", then it won't take extra time. Mine does not go that high.

Ok. Thank you. Now I follow you. Thanks for getting back to me so quick too!!

This looks very good.....but I have to ask a question
 

It looks like the car would tip forward or backwards if you leaned on it ??

This looks great ......but ?
 

Steel Floor Jack Cross Beam

I cannot find a weight capacity anywhere ???

Says in specs 2 ton - enough for 986 and most cars. Seems like you would need to buy 2? $80 a lot cheaper than the other choice posted....

It seems to stay a part of the jack so unless you have 2 jacks one should do it. Although, where could you raise the car from i order to get the jack stands on the factory lift points?

Bought one of these arms today
 

I went by the local HF store and was surprised how sturdy it is made, and along with my 20% off it made a pretty good deal. They had one mounted on a high lift jack and it seemed very sturdy. The jack had a lift height printed on it of 23 3/4 inches ( or somewhere there close). This with the lift of the arm/brace or whatever you want to call it should give you a lift height of well over 25 inches this would give a lot of working room at a very reasonable cost. Two jacks and two arms at less than $400, my question to anyone who has and has used one of these is will it go under our P Cars with the low profile jack ???

and is 25 to 27 inches enough to pull a transmission....if so this is a good alternative to a inexpensive lift. If this does work out and I eventually buy the jacks I would raise it to height and then place jack stands at 4 corners, even I would feel safe under this.

I am wondering if the HF one will reach both lift points. It only opens to 37" If not can you use it on the unreinforced part of the rail and then put jack stands under the lift points?

That might be wide enough to reach between the rear suspension points and lift the back evenly.
I raise from one of these points and it pretty much raises the entire rear. One side is a couple of inches lower

And what about the front. I need to get the car up on 4 stands.

I would not do that. I have seen crushed panels from lifting away from the jack points. The plates are wide, so it may work, but I would not take the chance.

What I do is use the rear side lifting point and it will raise the entire side
Put a jack stand at the front point
Repeat for the other sire and now the front is up
Then raise the rear and put stands at both rear points

or get lift bars and you can raise 1 side at a time and put stands on each side

Pic from Pelican for rear alternate lifting point

see post above ^^^^ for safe rear point

or check out
Jacking Up and Lifting the Porsche Boxster on Jack Stands | 986 / 987 (1997-08) | Pelican Parts Technical Article