DIY Clutch Replacement?
 

I've read tons of threads, Pelicans how-to and gone over it in the Bentley, but would appreciate any fresh perspectives from those that have done their own clutch.

Any pointers or things to look out for?
What did you do/use for engine support and clutch centering tool?
Any other special tools and where did you buy them?
I saw a video of a replacement in which the mechanic did not remove the axles, just unbolted from the transmission and left to hang...good or bad idea?

I'm not looking forward to it, but I'm probably over thinking everything. :(

There is a fellow on YouTube that has a 13 part videos on the entire process from removing trans, clutch, IMS, to completion. Very informative and this guy even makes his own tools for the IMS for dirt cheap out of PVC and steel stock. Pretty detailed. Give it a look.

Not a very complicated project. (Done it 3 times)
You can leave the axels hanging.
The only thing you will need that is "special" is the 10mm triple square, and the clutch alignment tool.
I also got a cheap transmission jack from HF, and engine support bar.
Makes life way easy. The support bar will hold the engine from the top, so you don't have a jack stand in the middle of your way. Also helps you lower the engine a bit, to get better access to the transmission top bolts.

It's Burners Cars:

https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCIocrQqlYRWYPh7d9GmRbDQ

I can appreciate his approach. Almost knocked himself in the head with the DMF and left it in. Good lesson.

I've done the clutch on my 2007 Cayman S and on my 1999 Boxster.

In both cases the new Sachs clutch kit came with a plastic clutch alignment tool that worked well.

i knew that doing this job on the ground would have been tough and bought a mid-rise lift by MaxJax. It was $2000, but it's been a great.

Once you get a lift you'll wonder how you ever lived without one.

All the engine mount bolts are different from each other. Like most people, I use a scrap of cardboard and poke holes in them and label each bolt. If they get scrambled up some how, the Pelican web page has pics of the order they go in.

The 10mm triple square (it's not a torx fastener) may have to be cut down, which you can do with a dremel tool and several minutes of your time. Others have found stubby ones. YMMV.

I use a floor jack and piece of wood to support the engine from underneath. I've also got the Harbor Freight transmission jack which is a POS but good enough for the 99 lb boxster trans (It'll hold more weight without collapsing, but the mechanism will likely bind up with anything heavier).

It's not a hard job.

If you're going to do the clutch you might as well do the IMS and rear main seal at the same time. Here's my DIY for the 911 - hope this helps.

http://www.corner-carvers.com/forums/showthread.php?t=46451

This should be
 

a Stickie post...great info

this waits for all of Boxster owners.....well the Manuel guys :cheers:

Just did mine in August.

Order the special bolt bit early and ask whether your Sacks clutch will come with an alignment tool. Mine did not but I ordered one for $13. Its plastic and works fine.

Put each Transmission bolt in a baggy and label it as you go.

Disk dust is nasty so put down a plastic sheet as it does not like to come out of the concrete that easy unless you pressure wash it out.
Take a picture of yourself with the black "War Paint" on your face, arms etc. You'll be able to laugh about it when you are done and cleaned up. You'll have earned a solid DIY mechanic reputation looking like that.

The procedure to test the DMFlywheel is very easy and will save you lots if you don't need to replace it. When your ready we can tell you what to do to test it once the clutch/transmission is out. Its in the Bentley manual as are all the proper torques and bolt dimensions if you happen to get them mixed up.

Replace the throwout bearing when doing the clutch whether you think it needs it or not. It comes with the Sachs kit.

Its a pretty easy job if you take your time, go slow and carefull. Remember safety first on a car on stands. I put the rear tires under the car next to the stands just in case of the unthinkable, like an earthquake or an ooops.

I have just done this task on a 3.2l +6 speed. Which do you have ?
To do this job well, plan on way more time than you can possibly imagine.
For example, this is a great time to:
1. replace the AOS and any cracked hoses
2. RMS IMSB
3. Driveshaft boots. For the 6 speed an 8mm wobble hex bit 3/8" drive makes it easier.
4. If it is a 6 speed, consider fitting a detent- the new design.
5. Consider replacing the header bolts in the crankcase halves with s/s.
6. Inspect the trans mounts before you remove them and consider replacement.
Be wary of the "Oh ,it's a breeze descriptions" . For example the DMF is over 30 pounds and if you are doing this on ramps - be very careful when you remove the last bolt....
Use one old bolt to make a thread chaser. You'll be using all new bolts anyway. Note the updated torque/degree spec for the bolts.
The bellhousing bolts- clean them as you remove them. Mark the head of each bolt and the corresponding area of the engine with a black sharpie per Pelican's layout. Do not rely on measuring the depth of each threaded hole in the engine and matching the bolts.The bolts are shorter,some much shorter than the full depth of the threaded holes - but you will know this from the thread chasing task.
Remove the CPS to avoid damaging it
Do not ding the reluctor teeth on the DMF .If you do, bend them back very carfully an accurately
Dress the leading edge of the input shaft splines and grease lightly. This will avoid many of the problems experienced in mating the gearbox .
The clutch/pilot alignment tool - for the 6 speed(not 5) a cheap ,plastic tool worked .The specs are 1" x 19/32" 23 spline. It was intended for a Ford Explorer ! Part # T-869B.
But the difficult alignment trick is to get the gearbox perfectly level/aligned with the engine. Without a Trans jack that has a tilt adjustment, this could be a difficult/damaging/dangerous process.It is easy to get the spines engaged.The problem is the last 1/2" .If you let the weight of the gearbox 'hang' on the input shaft and clutch ......
Fit the clutch slave cylinder to the gearbox before you refit the gearbox to the engine.If you forget, and have difficulties, apply some vaseline to the rubber boot to help it slide in.
Consider using aluminum or brass guide pins for the Bellhousing, DMF and clutch Pressure Plate.
Consider using either green wicking Loctite or the 'medium' blue threadlock paste where appropriate.
Be very particular about the torque of the DMF bolts and the driveshaft bolts.If they loosen ...
http://986forum.com/forums/general-discussions/64190-expert-engine-removal.html

Thanks for the pointers, guys ;)

It's the 2.5, 5spd. I've done clutches, just never on the Boxster. CV boots are good. I'll do a visual inspection of the IMSB flange for leaks, but not touching the OEM dual row bearing unless I see something. Will check the RMS and probably replace it, regardless.

I stopped by HF today and picked up an engine support bar and some odds and ends. Probably overkill, but why not? :)
I have a triple square set on the way, but still looking at clutch kits. It would be nice to find one with the disc, pressure plate, DMF, alignment tool, throw out bearing and all bolts, but that may be asking a lot.

I hope to make it as quick and painless as possible as the car is now my DD. I'll be sure to post results!

Thanks again! :D

If you car is a DD and you'll in need of it:

1. Make a list with all torque values you need. Check that you have all tools you need.

2. Derust all exhaust and other bolts that need to be loosened before you start (i put rust solver on mine for some weeks and cleaned the threads everytime; they were super clean, which helped a lot)

3. Use power tools. If you don't have compressed air, there are also electric tools available. And since you have to loosen and fasten a lot of nuts and bolts this really safes time.

4. Use a lift

I think 2, 3 and 4 saves you up to 50% of time.

Regards, Markus

The Pelican master clutch kit came with a very short pivot stud. Don't use it. Keep the longer one. This changes the engagement point to very high in the travel and it sucks.

I also got a creak in the arm or slave. The arm was exactly identical to the one I replaced. I'm thinking I missed greasing a part. :(

It's been a lifetime since I did a clutch job and I've never done a Boxster clutch. This is probably covered in the how to's, but I would also add check the pilot bushing, clutch release fork bushing/bearings and slave cylinder and any flexible hydraulic hose and use antiseize on nuts and bolts going back together where appropriate. Good luck!

He said :
"I've never done a Boxster clutch":
but I am giving advice anyway !
You missed the Hippocratic oath- first ,do no harm.
A new DMF has the pilot bushing already fitted
There is no hydraulic hose -it is coiled tube.....I could go on.
P.O. Just stick with the Pelican and Bentley Instructions, the PET and the more knowledgeable hints above and the videos already linked.

What do you guys think about putting the rear end on ramps instead of stands? Not sure that would give me enough clearance, but I'd feel better about being under there yanking on stuff. :)
Does the suspension need to unloaded (car suspended by jack points)?

It's going to be a couple weeks yet...

Edit: I'll need to turn the axles to get to all the bolts, so I guess I answered my own question. :D

Ok, my bad, sorry!

I used a 2 Post lift. I have seen photos using 4 very tall jack stands.That way the car is level.
The Harbor Freight floor trans jack(scissor type) seems to feature in some but a tall hyraulic cart is probably better?

I used standard height jack stands from HF. I think I measured 17", but you will have to get the transmission to within 6" of the floor.

I used my floor jack. I drilled some holes in the floor jack pad and bolted a square of 1/2" ply 12"x12" for the transmission to rest on and used load straps to keep it from falling off. Worked perfectly and due to the fact that there was some slack/play it made jiggling the tranny back into place fairly easy.

I don't like jack stands either but nothing budged as your not pushing hard sideways on anything during this job.

HF sell 12 ton jack stands that raise the car up to 30"
I use a set of 4 on a diesel truck and regular cars. Rock solid and cheap(on sale)
12 Ton Jack Stands