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Old 09-10-2016, 07:53 AM   #1
Crib
 
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Changing pads and rotors - need some help

Hi guys,

I'm in this newbie situation right now.

About to change my brake pads and rotors on my -03 S.

Problem 1: After pressing the caliper pistons and brake fluid back into the system I expected to be able to wiggle the pads out, but it looks like the pads are really stuck to the pistons. I've tried gently with a flat screwdriver to bend them apart. Any tricks on this? WD40 and a heat gun? Should i put copper paste on the surface of the pad on the new ones when i eventually get there, to prevent them sticking next time?

Problem 2: On all videos i've seen the brake hose going into the caliper seems lose, so people hang the caliper with string in the suspension while changing the rotor. But it looks on my car that they are more brake tubes in metal going into the caliper. They dont look like they really want to be bent that way? Do I need to loosen everything up before removing the caliper?

Thanks in advance!

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Old 09-10-2016, 08:03 AM   #2
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Hello Crib,

in general there are dampening pads glued to the brake pads. So this might cause the stuck. Remove the cap of the brake fluid reservoir first. Push the old pads back as far that you can. Than you should be able to get them out. Don't use copper paste for the back of the brake pads; only for the duct of the brake pads (hope duct is the right word here). The Brembo brake system is designed for the dampening pads which pulls the brake pads away from the rotors.

Don't break the brake lines loose. You can change the brake discs without doing that. Just hang the brake calipers on a piece of wire, so that the brake lines aren't stretched.

Regards from Germany
Markus

PS: be careful. Brakes are important. If you don't know 100% what you are doing let somebody else with experience check you work. Safety always first.

Last edited by Smallblock454; 09-10-2016 at 08:07 AM.
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Old 09-10-2016, 08:15 AM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Crib View Post
Hi guys,

I'm in this newbie situation right now.



Problem 2: On all videos i've seen the brake hose going into the caliper seems lose, so people hang the caliper with string in the suspension while changing the rotor. But it looks on my car that they are more brake tubes in metal going into the caliper. They dont look like they really want to be bent that way? Do I need to loosen everything up before removing the caliper?

Thanks in advance!

Regards
Crib
If you think you have a unique situation, then please post a picture! As Marcus comments we "know" what it's supposed to look like but may not be what you have. A picture will help immensely.
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Old 09-10-2016, 09:59 AM   #4
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Thanks a bunch for your insights guys!

Actually i figured it out thx to a different video.

The brembo is different to other brakes i've worked with.

I have now done the front axle (with the caliper hanging in the spring with a wire )

Tomorrow i'll do the rear.

Again, thx guys!
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Old 09-10-2016, 06:52 PM   #5
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Use a putty knife to split the back of the brake pad from the dampers
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Old 09-10-2016, 07:15 PM   #6
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Jay has the trick. I wasted a lot of time with mine before someone turned me on to this. Doh!
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Old 09-11-2016, 03:27 PM   #7
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Those backing plates with pistons going into the caliper pistons threw me for a loop too. Since I was also replacing the rotors I took a caliper off with the pads pushed back but in place and all became apparent!
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Old 09-11-2016, 04:18 PM   #8
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I went through the same thing when I was replacing the pads on my 2001 Boxster S. The book showed the pads coming right out, no mention of the dampening weights (or whatever they are) that are riveted to the dampening plates on the back of the pads. When I figured out what was going on I removed the dampening plates from the pads using a putty knife.
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Old 09-12-2016, 12:00 PM   #9
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Any brand reccomadations for street?
I've seen good reviews for Textar..?
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Old 09-12-2016, 12:17 PM   #10
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I went with ATE rotors and TRW pads.

Had them recommended by another owner.

I'll give some own feedback in a couple of miles, since I did the rear axle today.

Lost a day by losing my lug lock key on Sunday, don't ask.... Haha.
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Old 09-12-2016, 03:59 PM   #11
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I went with ATE rotors since Pelican had them for 10% off last month, and Textar pads. The Zimmerman rotors are supposed to be the same as OEM. I would have bought those except the ATE's were a little less expensive even before the extra 10% off. Textar are supposed to be the same as the OEM pads. My original front pads and rotors went 62,000 miles, including my first HDPE at 61,000 miles. The pads still had some material left when I changed them but not enough to pass tech for my next HDPE. The rear pads and rotors are still going strong at 63,000 miles.

The new pads and rotors are great, they bedded in well, survived my second HDPE and seem to be the same as the original OEM brakes.
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Old 09-13-2016, 08:57 AM   #12
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Look for Meyle rotors on ebay. Around $75 for a pair !
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Old 09-13-2016, 09:10 AM   #13
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Quote:
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The Zimmerman rotors are supposed to be the same as OEM.
Hello,

Zimmermann rotors are after market. The OEM rotors are made by SHW. You won't get them after market. SHW is not allowed by contracts with Porsche to sell these rotors after market.

OEM pads are Brembo or Textar – mine in the 2003 S (US MY 2004) were Brembo.

Regards, Markus
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Old 09-13-2016, 11:07 AM   #14
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Look for Meyle rotors on ebay. Around $75 for a pair !
Got front and rear Meyle rotors for about $150 on eBay, they are very good quality for the price.

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Old 09-13-2016, 12:47 PM   #15
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Great score !
So what pads did you buy ?
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Old 09-13-2016, 02:55 PM   #16
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Just call Paragon Parts
The know what works and what doesn't.
I have used their rotors on the track for 3 years on my 2000S
No problems with warpage.
Not very expensive. I run Pagid Pads for track and switch to stock for the street.
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Old 09-14-2016, 09:44 AM   #17
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Crib - Yes I had the same issue... turns out there is glue that you need to use a small flat screwdriver and pry it off and then you can easily pull the pad out. This took me a while to figure out myself the first time.... enjoy!
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Old 09-14-2016, 11:21 AM   #18
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Ok, so i now had time to drive and grind the protective layer off the rotors.

My old pads (Textar) was semi worn and the rotors had quite a lip, but a nice surface.

None the less I feel a distinct positive difference in the brakes.

So by that I feel that I can recommend the ATE rotors and TRW pads i went with.

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Old 09-14-2016, 03:19 PM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GTsilber View Post
Got front and rear Meyle rotors for about $150 on eBay, they are very good quality for the price.

Sent from my SM-G935T using Tapatalk
There you go

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