07-30-2016, 02:18 PM
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#1
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Motorist & Coffee Drinker
Join Date: Jul 2014
Location: Oklahoma
Posts: 3,866
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Chunk missing from bracket - Important?
I was under a car today and noticed that there is a corner broken off of one of the rear subframe support brackets. It is right where to bolt braces against for setting the alignment. New to me car and I don't know how long it's been like that. With the car on jack stands it all feels solid and secure.
My question is how urgent is it to replace? If the alignment is set already does it matter, or will that cause it to slip/float out of position?
This is the bolt on the aft end of one of these:
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I am not an attorney, mechanic, or member of the clergy. Following any advice given in my posts is done at your own peril.
Last edited by 78F350; 07-30-2016 at 02:45 PM.
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07-30-2016, 02:52 PM
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#2
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Registered User
Join Date: Oct 2014
Location: California Central Coast
Posts: 1,476
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It appears to me to be just a piece broken off? If so you are not in immediate danger as long as you do not subject to extraordinary forces. No AX, DE, enduros etc. However since it is in a stressed structural area I would replace at first opportunity. In meantime keep an eye out for any cracks emanating from the bolt hole area. My .02. The alignment won't change unless you loosen the bolt. Whoever aligned last time must have used the block to lever against. I think that is for toe adjustment.
Last edited by 911monty; 07-30-2016 at 03:43 PM.
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07-30-2016, 03:42 PM
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#3
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Registered User
Join Date: Oct 2013
Location: Atlanta, GA
Posts: 419
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It looks like the piece that snapped off is more or less a stop (when rotated the bolt will hit up agaist it forcing the bolt down in the slot), but it could have been designed that way to also add support around the bolt. If it were me I would probably change it when I had a chance, but I agree with 911Monty - I don't think you are in any danger if you don't AX or put the car under any undo extra stress.
Looks to me that the only way that broke was someone forced the alignment bolt against it doing an alignment and it snapped off.
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2001 Boxster S - Speed Yellow, Black Leather, Tiptronic, Jake Raby rebuilt 3.2 with IMS Solution
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07-30-2016, 05:50 PM
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#4
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Certified Boxster Addict
Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: Los Angeles
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I would replace it as soon as practical (like in a few weeks). Biggest risk/worry is developing a crack and then having the component break and possible immediate loss of control. Not immediately likely, but the longer its driven, the greater the chance of a crack starting.
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1999 996 C2 - sold - bought back - sold for more
1997 Spec Boxster BSR #254
1979 911 SC
POC Licensed DE/TT Instructor
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07-30-2016, 06:28 PM
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#5
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Registered User
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Location: Agoura Hills (LA) So.Cal.
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1995 Porsche C4 Cab
2016 BMW M2, 6 Speed LBB - ED 7/2016
1997 993 Cab - Sold; 1997 993 Turbo - Sold
2001 Boxster S - Original Owner - 30K Miles -SOLD
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07-30-2016, 07:47 PM
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#6
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Motorist & Coffee Drinker
Join Date: Jul 2014
Location: Oklahoma
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Thanks for the advice all. I think I'll just drive that one around town for now and fix it by the end of August.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Chuck W.
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I would definitely hit Woody up for that except there's still one left from my parts car:
It's amazing how much of that car was actually reused. Just two weeks ago I needed the brake booster to fix a sticking brake pedal. Almost threw it out when I scrapped the front 1/2 of the car. Never know what might come in handy.
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I am not an attorney, mechanic, or member of the clergy. Following any advice given in my posts is done at your own peril.
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07-30-2016, 07:52 PM
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#7
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Registered User
Join Date: Jul 2013
Location: Bastrop, Tx
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What year is your car and what year is the donor? They switched to a thicker one in 99
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Woody
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07-30-2016, 09:05 PM
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#8
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Motorist & Coffee Drinker
Join Date: Jul 2014
Location: Oklahoma
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Quote:
Originally Posted by itsnotanova
What year is your car and what year is the donor? They switched to a thicker one in 99
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Great info, thanks. It's going on a 99 and the parts car is an 01. ...got lucky. I just checked the donor part number to be sure and it's 986.331.152.08
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I am not an attorney, mechanic, or member of the clergy. Following any advice given in my posts is done at your own peril.
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07-30-2016, 11:56 PM
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#9
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Registered User
Join Date: Jun 2014
Location: LB, Germany
Posts: 1,509
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Hello 78F350,
this is a limiter for the eccentric screw. Seems somebody didn't know how to do a chassis alignment and didn't loosen the screw enough. Should be replaced, because the limiter doesn't work this way. Don't think it's a structural problem at this stage. Don't forget to do an alignment after installation.
Regards, Markus
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07-31-2016, 08:16 PM
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#10
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Registered User
Join Date: Sep 2014
Posts: 116
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this happens quite often when the wheel gets hit laterally, like hitting a kerb or another race car. Not critical, but the alignment will be way out.
Chances are the camber is totally out of whack and you will wear your tire more quickly. Cheaper to fix it sooner rather than later.
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08-01-2016, 07:20 PM
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#11
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Registered User
Join Date: Jul 2013
Location: Bastrop, Tx
Posts: 2,644
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Here's the early style next to the later style. The early style has a special nut that is used for the metal cross member to bolt to. The later style is cast into the subframe. The early style has clip on adjuster tabs and is about a 1/2 lbs lighter.
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Woody
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08-02-2016, 06:01 AM
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#12
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Registered User
Join Date: Jul 2016
Location: Minnesnowta
Posts: 90
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It takes a lot of force to crack a piece of aluminum off of a part like that.
So assume CORRECTLY that the rest of the part received just as much force and that it is now weakened, or may have microscopic cracks that you will not see.
It is a suspension part. Replace it ASAP.
BTW, if it is accident damage, you want to get a real good look at everything else.
If it is damage caused by an ignorant mechanic, raise a stink.
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