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Old 07-18-2016, 02:32 PM   #1
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Top Latch Micro Switch

I had a problem putting up the top this weekend which i fixed tonight, thanks to all the information found on the forum. the latch micro switch failed, after applying more solder to the connections, I am back in business. my question thought is, what is the difference between the switch for 97 to 99 cars and the 2000 to 04
this spring i changed out the top transmissions and relay to the B style from a 2000 car and am wondering if i wanted to replace it which switch would i buy, or does it even matter?
99 part number 986 613 795 02
2000 part number 986 613 799 00
any one know?
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Old 07-19-2016, 05:35 PM   #2
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Hi

Good show! Can you point me to the post where they show where to apply solder on the connector? I tried the search function but there were many, many posts. Is there a how to?

Thanks!
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Old 07-20-2016, 08:54 AM   #3
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i believe the top latch switch is the same, what is different between the two top models is that 2000 and up have a microswitch inside the transmission on the drivers side. The relay is also different but you probably already know that since you converted to the newer model.

if you did not have to change the top latch micro switch when you updated the top i'd say it works fine and they are the same.
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Old 07-20-2016, 01:40 PM   #4
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I had some help Schoir, he is a invaluable source of information, below was what he sent me, hopefully it will help you as well.
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Here are two write-ups I found in my files.**** Read them over and see if they give you some clarity.**** I'm sure it's one of these two that is causing your problems.**** If your Boxster was in the sun, that parallel microswitch crack is a very common cause of intermittent operation.**** In any case, here they are and let me know how you make out:

Since your parking brake light is on, the most likely suspect is one of the two microswitches that are located in the latch receptacle in the windshield frame.

There are two microswitches in the latch receptacle assembly. There is one on the left side of the assembly (has a large plunger that juts out when the latch is open). That one controls the 4" window drop that occurs immediately when you pull down the latch to open the top. There is another one on the right side of the assembly, and that is the one that activates the convertible top double relay.

My guess is that the latter switch is faulty, even though it may appear to be intact when you visually inspect it, and sometimes even when you test it with a multimeter. Specifically, take a close look at the solder joints where the leads attach to the plug. This can be hard to detect, so check it with a magnifying glass for hairline cracks in the solder joint and for corrosion. If necessary, heat up the connections with a soldering iron and flow a tiny bit of solder onto the suspect joint(s).

Believe it or not, the temperature (sun light, A/C blowing on it, etc...) can affect it to the point where the connection is broken and then re-established.

To gain access to the microswitch you have to remove the latch plate at the center of the windshield frame. Pop out the two little black plastic "eyes" by carefully prying them off with a very small flat blade screwdriver or borrow one of those "orange sticks" that women use on their fingernails to pry them out. Remove the small torx bolt that you will find under each one of the two eyes. Remove them and then pull down the latch plate carefully until you can see and access the wires for the switch and for the light. Unplug the wires and the latch plate will come off. You will find two fragile retaining clips that attach the switch to the underside of the latch plate. These are easy to break, so use a pair of small needle nose pliers to pull them off, very gently. You can reuse these if you are careful by squeezing the cross sections that are located at the center of the clips until they are flattened.

Also double check the two fuses (even if you have already visually checked them) by using a multimeter there as well, as one of them also provides power to the double relay.



Here's how to deal with the "plunger microswitch":


Try in the microswitch where the hook from the convertible top latches into the front windshield frame and then try to close a window at the same time.
This microswitch switch often requires replacement or a small modification to stop causing the symptoms that you describe.
You must remove the whole assembly so that you can properly access the microswitch. The switch is made of plastic and sometimes it gets distorted out of shape from extended use or even by the force of its own return spring.
Before you go buy a new switch, you can try to modify it by applying a little heat to the plastic shaft and then rotating it. The actual part that makes contact with the micro switch would be twisted in the opposite direction of the lever. By twisting it in that manner, the lever will have more leverage and it will make and maintain contact that much sooner.
When applying the heat, either use a heat gun or a small torch. Be careful if you use the torch because you then only need to apply the heat for 1/2 to 1 second. If you heat it too much with the torch, you run the risk of burning or melting the plastic.

Once you open up the assembly, this will all make perfect sense.
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Old 07-22-2016, 07:40 AM   #5
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Top problem.

I had a window / top issue . Windows would not return to fully closed with top up. The problem is. The spring / contact in the switch is tired. Needs just a bit of help to close the switch.
I cut a little piece sticky back felt about an 1/8 " thick . Put it on the hook tip . NOT in the switch. Cured.
You can fool with the thickness but start small.
Temporary fix but wtf.
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