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Old 05-31-2016, 09:09 PM   #1
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Name that part and replacement options

While replacing my power steering pump I managed to break the accordion-looking tube going into the top of the AOS. When I had the car towed in for a flush he told me not to feel too bad, when they have 100k+ miles on them the heat makes them really brittle and they can be broke simply by looking at them wrong. Anyway, he tried to heat shrink wrap but admitted he couldnt get the heat gun under the line and recommended wrapping it in tape. That seemed to have worked for about 150 miles and now I am throwing P1128 and P1130 codes and idle is now 900 when it used to be 750 and rock-steady after my recent AOS replacement. Yeah, May has been an interesting month, filled with smiles and frowns as I get something fixed, finally get to drive my car for a day or two and something else goes wrong. Nothing that shouldnt be expected for my milage but recent repairs are starting to give me a little financial squeeze...

He mentioned that tube is over priced, is there no other option besides replacing it with the Porsche part? If not can someone give a part name or number for that tube? As always thanks and any advice is appricated.

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Old 05-31-2016, 10:12 PM   #2
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My P car parts store had it. Don't recall number. Wasn't super expensive, but it click or twist locks on so it needs to be that part. Edit. Apparently not.

Maybe Woodie? Pelican?
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Old 05-31-2016, 10:25 PM   #3
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Is it 996.107.146.00? It connects to the throttle body and at the top of the AOS, just replaced mine. You can go to autozone and buy a 3/4 in hose and make a "sleeve" to connect both broken ends if just the middle tube broke. Unfortunately, there was a tee so I couldn't patch it, but it is very easily doable.
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Old 06-01-2016, 04:24 AM   #4
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The Tee for small hose is the difficult part trying to fashion a Shade Tree Mechanic version
When mine was not seated correctly I threw those same errors. It is a vacuum leak in that instance
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Old 06-01-2016, 07:23 AM   #5
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If you really want to fix one, here's my old one. It's one break as shown.



I'll send it free, but I'm thinking new is best and done with.
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Old 06-01-2016, 07:54 AM   #6
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Its cheap and you can replace it yourself. I broke mine while doing a starter swap and I think it was 45 dollars and that included next day shipping. The part itself is 25 bucks. It'll cause a vacuum leak if it's not right. Just replace it.
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Old 06-01-2016, 08:37 AM   #7
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Thanks for all the input. He was quoting off the top of his head and seemed to have the wrong part in mind, something like this perhaps???

https://www.amazon.com/Genuine-94810721702-Engine-Crankcase-Breather/dp/B0072JAL0G/ref=pd_day0_263_1?ie=UTF8&dpID=11uosR1bNrL&dpSrc=sims&preST=_AC_UL160_SR160%2C160_&refRID=5R9Q77M0JPF3GZGE2TY6

Correct part ordered from pelican for $35, thanks again.
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Old 06-04-2016, 06:57 PM   #8
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Got the new line in and sadly it made no difference. Stumped now. Didnt throw the 1128 and 1130 code again yet but idle is very rough and high and fluctuating, got as far as the driveway and backed it right back into the garage. There are only a few vacuum lines, I looked them over and everything seems in order. Thought for sure the patch job on that hose has just failed, a new hose and Id be good. Any thoughts where to go from here?

Edit: Removing the oil cap while its running does create a change so it seems to be a leak in the intake correct?
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Old 06-04-2016, 09:06 PM   #9
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Remove and clean the throttle body next, and clean MAF.
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Old 06-12-2016, 03:09 PM   #10
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still trying to track down this vacumm leak. I took the car to the shop and had it smoke checked, so that gave me something to go by. Don't know what this canister looking thing is, it's directly in front of the Aos and it appears to have a connection at the bottom, is there supposed to be a line going into that?

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Old 06-12-2016, 03:29 PM   #11
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Vacuum reservoir. Needs that vac line! Look around, you'll find it
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Old 06-12-2016, 04:16 PM   #12
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Cool, thanks for the help. Directly below that is this three way connector with two very brittle lines. The broken line you see coming off the right was trapped under the passenger side intake, did the end of this line formally have a connector that plugged into the vac reservoir? Or is there another vac line running under the passenger intake that Im not able to see? Im not seeing another stray line that might go into the vac reservoir but this broken line has no end and wondering if it continues under the intake as another vac line to another destination, or the end has simply broken off and its the line that indeed plugs into the vac reservoir....

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Old 06-12-2016, 07:10 PM   #13
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Well I took a guess I wasnt missing anything and that broken line went to the vac res. It seems it did and I have a broken connector that will be floating around the engine compartment until the engine is retired.

Its interesting, at one point I had three vacumm leaks all at the same time; a broken line, a disconnected line and a rubber ring that had a chunk out of it causing a leak at a connector, no wonder they all took me so long to track down. Amazing the car ran at all with all those leaks but Im happy to report idle is now steady at 850 and she runs like a champ. Thanks for all the help on this, you guys are great.

This next weekend will be my first ever brake fluid flush on the Box but got to try out my new MityVac MV8000 brake bleed kit on my rainy-day car this weekend, its a 94 Lexus LS400. Put new pads on the rear too. Hand pump is a pain but it worked great and what do you want for $40?
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Old 06-12-2016, 08:24 PM   #14
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Quote:
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Well I took a guess I wasnt missing anything and that broken line went to the vac res. It seems it did and I have a broken connector that will be floating around the engine compartment until the engine is retired.

Its interesting, at one point I had three vacumm leaks all at the same time; a broken line, a disconnected line and a rubber ring that had a chunk out of it causing a leak at a connector, no wonder they all took me so long to track down. Amazing the car ran at all with all those leaks but Im happy to report idle is now steady at 850 and she runs like a champ. Thanks for all the help on this, you guys are great.

This next weekend will be my first ever brake fluid flush on the Box but got to try out my new MityVac MV8000 brake bleed kit on my rainy-day car this weekend, its a 94 Lexus LS400. Put new pads on the rear too. Hand pump is a pain but it worked great and what do you want for $40?
The Motive brake bleeder is great. Easily does all 4 in no time.
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Old 06-28-2016, 11:26 PM   #15
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These pics might help.


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