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Old 09-08-2016, 01:40 PM   #21
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Not much has happened as I've been completely out of action with my back. Back surgery 3 weeks ago has left me a completely different person. I'm out of pain for the first time in over 6 months and can move so, so much better. Stunned to find we've put almost 5K miles on the Boxster since getting it considering I haven't driven for a month and it was in the body shop for 4 weeks.

So the weekend I got originally it failed to start. Looked like a dead battery so I replaced that, but since then things have been getting weak so I've kept it on a battery tender, but last week the alternator died so I needed to fix that. Reading online and in the 101 Boxster projects book indicates that you need access from the top side of the engine, as well as through the front from the passenger area. I'll tell you now there is no need to go through the top, the whole operation can be done through the front access. The only think you need to go through the top for is to undo one earth strap, but I see no need to do that. It was worthwhile going through the top as the engine was filthy covered in dust and It gave me a chance to swap the air filter.

Pics. Putting the soft top in the service position is easy. Open part way, pop off a couple of top cables from their ball sockets and hold the hood out of the way with a bungee. This is the cable, one each side.


Then remove the glove box/carpet and the rear carpet.


Finally remove the engine cover to reveal the filthy engine. This represents 12 years and 20-25K miles of grime I assume since the brand new engine was fitted by Porsche.


YEah, the air filter is past it's best


OK, inside, move both seats forward, remove the rear carpet/matt with 4 plastic push pins then something like 8 bolts to remove the cover. Dead easy, faster and easier than I was expecting to tell the truth.



To remove the alternator there are just two bolts. The lower right (left if your in the car looking back at the front of the engine) just comes out. The other is the lower left (right looking at the front of it) is also an idler pulley. Undo that about 4-5mm then wack on the end with a drift and a metal hammer. The reason for this is that there is a bucking in the alternator rear housing that get's pulled into the mount as you tighten it up to help locate it. This has to be pushed back into the alternator to allow it to be removed. This was the toughest part as it was a bit stuck, but not too bad. Then carefully rotate the alternator CCW as you look at it, pull it forward and remove the connects.

Part way out. As you can see, lots of room actually to reach stuff.


I'd called a friend who works at the local Porsche dealer so I texted him and there was a new accessory belt and air filter waiting for my credit card at the dealer when I stopped there after picking up rebuilt alternator from a local re-builder.

It went back together like a dream and was running soon.
https://www.youtube.com/embed/pPG484iUKNw

Then I filled a garden weed sprayer with hot hot water and simple green and spent 30 mins cleaning up the engine before putting the covers back on. Nice and easy and made a massive difference.



Then a thorough cleaning of the trim and carpet bits and put it all back together. All in all easier than I expected, access really isn't as bad as people lead you to believe and it was quicker than an SVT Contour alternator swap that I can do in 3 1/2 hours start to finish despite internet lore saying it's a full day job with a lift that I never had.

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Last edited by Adrian Thompson; 09-08-2016 at 03:18 PM.
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Old 09-08-2016, 01:50 PM   #22
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Tried to read your thread but but couldn't continue due to the size of your pics.
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Old 09-08-2016, 02:11 PM   #23
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 911monty View Post
Tried to read your thread but but couldn't continue due to the size of your pics.
Yes, good thread, but on my PC the size of the pics is way too big. Here's what I see:
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Old 09-08-2016, 02:13 PM   #24
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OK, I'll see what I can do about the pics
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Old 09-08-2016, 02:14 PM   #25
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Looks fine on my iPad. Nice work, BTW.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
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Old 09-08-2016, 02:19 PM   #26
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Holy ginormous pictures, Batman!

I can't read your posts because the pictures are far too large.
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Old 09-08-2016, 03:21 PM   #27
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OK guys, let me know if you can see the pics and read it better now. I've resized all the pics so hopefully you can see them on the screen. It's funny, the other forum I post on GRM has the most god aweful forum software the seems like it was designed in the early 90's, but the one thing it does fine is re-size images with no issue.

LEt me know if this works for you now.
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Old 09-08-2016, 03:33 PM   #28
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Yes now that works and I can appreciate what you did just 3 weeks after back surgery! Amazing the amount of detail you miss when pics too large! Looks much better now (the engine I mean) LOL.
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Old 09-08-2016, 04:03 PM   #29
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Thanks guys.

Should I post this drivel in the small projects thread or leave it here, I'm thinking of this as an ongoing ownership and fix it thread.

Today something strange happened. I had the top up this morning due to rain and suddenly the two windows dropped an couple of inches like they do when you lower the top. They wouldn't go back until I stopped and lowered then raised the roof in the rain. This afternoon when the top was down they dropped a couple of inches again, and again wouldn't go back up until I parked for the night and cycled the roof again. Is this an known issue?
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Old 09-08-2016, 04:10 PM   #30
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There is a very common cause to this issue. There is a microswitch that gets weak over time. You can test next time this happens by unlatching and press the switch and see if the windows then roll completely up, I'll bet they do. Either replace the microswitch, about $80.00. or stick some thick tape on the microswitch pad that contacts the roof latch. I have a new microswitch but the tape has worked fine for over a year, so I have not replaced.
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Old 09-08-2016, 07:44 PM   #31
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You may enjoy this episode of Wheeler Dealers.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oS_yKQRcln0

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