About to purchase 2004 50th anniversary

[tomonomics]

Hard to tell from the pics, but if the interior and top are Black/Grey, that will save you a ton of money instead of looking for the cocoa parts. The top and heated seat are the same as the standard models parts/colors, not sure about the dark gray leather covering.

Black was a factory option on the SE, and is pretty rare compared to the SE brown.

[GTsilber]

Originally Posted by tomonomics

Hard to tell from the pics, but if the interior and top are Black/Grey, that will save you a ton of money instead of looking for the cocoa parts. I believe those are the same as the standard models parts/colors.

Black was a factory option on the SE, and is pretty rare compared to the SE brown.

Yes both top and seats are black...what seats am I looking for specifically, all leather, heated?

[Smallblock454]

Hi,

i'm sorry but the 550 Spyder edition model seats are not standard leather. Both cocoa or dark grey seats are natural leather seats, which was an expensive option from standard leather for the normal car and the quality of the leather is different - less paint on the leather, more open pored and by that more breathable. This leather is also more sensitive against moisture. Which maybe describes the really bad condition of the drivers seat.

The rear cover of the seats is painted with the exterior color GT silver. You look for heated seats. As i said, these seats will be hard to get - especially in dark grey color.

Regards from Germany
Markus

Again cocoa:

[rick3000]

I mentioned the difficulty sourcing parts earlier in the thread, best best would be to try and have a shop repair the seat and match the color. You can find your option code sticker under the hood, it will have all of the options and color codes so you know what to look for. You can find decoders online.

[tomonomics]

"the 550 Spyder edition model seats are not standard leather. Both cocoa or dark grey seats are natural leather seats, which was an expensive option from standard leather for the normal car."

You are correct...I meant to say that the 'seat' was a standard heated sport seat. But it is covered in natural leather, which I will assume it different than the 'Large Leather' package that was offered that year. The painted seatbacks were an option, but not in GT Silver.

[GTsilber]

Originally Posted by Smallblock454

Hi,

i'm sorry but the 550 Spyder edition model seats are not standard leather. Both cocoa or dark grey seats are natural leather seats, which was an expensive option from standard leather for the normal car and the quality of the leather is different - less paint on the leather, more open pored and by that more breathable. This leather is also more sensitive against moisture. Which maybe describes the really bad condition of the drivers seat.

The rear cover of the seats is painted with the exterior color GT silver. You look for heated seats. As i said, these seats will be hard to get - especially in dark grey color.

Regards from Germany
Markus

Again cocoa:

Your seats look incredible, the painted seat back makes is look so clean and crisp...love it!

[Smallblock454]

@ GTsilber: Sorry, that might be misleading. The pictures don't show my car. Found them on the internet just to illustrate the differences.

My car has a black interior. Sorry, i don't have good photos from my interior.

Regards, Markus

[Muskoka Minute]

Here are some pics of my 04 SE







Hope this helps.
I wish my seats were painted GT Siler....

[GTsilber]

Originally Posted by Muskoka Minute

Here are some pics of my 04 SE















Hope this helps.

I wish my seats were painted GT Siler....

Wow your car is immaculate! This is what I want mine to look like. I went to 3 body shops today, all deal with high end cars. All 3 confirmed that the clear coat peeling is the result of the sun NOT the car being repainted. I got quotes to repaint the entire car ranging from $3k-$5k...really want to do it

[BFeller]

Originally Posted by GTsilber

Thank you husker. I am mechanical, I have only owned German cars (Benz and Audi) for the last 15 years, and just recently purchased a 2005 Dodge Ram that I brought back from the dead. I live in South Florida, plenty of upholsterers around, just wasn't sure if it was worth it to go that route or buy a new seat? I have a friend that owns a high end body shop that I could work with on the paint. Very good advice though, you get what you pay for...in my circumstance, I would just rather pony up $7k now and "pay as I go" opposed to dropping $15-$20k on the car.

I would run over to the paint guy and get some feedback from him. Try to move the top in service mode. It could be as simple as some bad micro switches. Freedom in movement could quickly tell you broken assembly's - arms control and such. A few people have resorted to manually open and closing the top. Doing that doesn't help resale value - but takes only a little more time than automatic mode. There are some great writeup's on trouble shooting the top.

[Timco]

I'll post the 550 brochure later. Painted seat backs were an option. Mine does not have them painted.

[GTsilber]

I have been trying to trouble shoot my top issue, so far no luck. Here are some things I tried and observations:
1. Check handbrake is illuminated in dash when pulled - confirmed
2. Check top microswitch is working correctly - when pulled Windows go down, when pushed up windows roll up - confirmed
3. Remove top double relay and reinsert - confirmed but not sure if relay is bad?
4. Replace B6 fuse - confirmed
5. The top warning light does not illuminate when placing key in ignition, not sure if it should
6. The top rocker switch does not illuminate with yellow light, upon toggling switch no sound from top motor or otherwise

What else can I try?

On another note, got a CEL light, P0420. Hooked up my OBD2 and noticed that B1S1 and B1S2 are showing similar voltage, do I need to replace S1 or is it the cat that's bad?



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[Tcar]

I think the car also sat outdoors with the TOP DOWN in the sun (maybe rain) for extended periods to make the seats look/feel like that.

Same treatment that caused the paint fail.

[BIGJake111]

Who does this to a Special Edition. I could see someone buying a base and letting it rot because they're exponentially more replaceable, but if you're going to let a car sit why pay more for the special edition.

[GTsilber]

Originally Posted by BIGJake111

Who does this to a Special Edition. I could see someone buying a base and letting it rot because they're exponentially more replaceable, but if you're going to let a car sit why pay more for the special edition.

To be honest I think the PO had no idea this was a special edition. But even so, this is no way to treat a car, I am going to do my best to restore it.

[dghii]

Originally Posted by GTsilber

I have been trying to trouble shoot my top issue, so far no luck. Here are some things I tried and observations:
1. Check handbrake is illuminated in dash when pulled - confirmed
2. Check top microswitch is working correctly - when pulled Windows go down, when pushed up windows roll up - confirmed
3. Remove top double relay and reinsert - confirmed but not sure if relay is bad?
4. Replace B6 fuse - confirmed
5. The top warning light does not illuminate when placing key in ignition, not sure if it should
6. The top rocker switch does not illuminate with yellow light, upon toggling switch no sound from top motor or otherwise

What else can I try?

On another note, got a CEL light, P0420. Hooked up my OBD2 and noticed that B1S1 and B1S2 are showing similar voltage, do I need to replace S1 or is it the cat that's bad?

The windows toggle up and down with the microswitch in the top latch assembly.

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I guess you've got to do a little more digging with the top.

First off, handbrake illumination does not mean the microswitch for the top is good, Bypass the switch at the top controller relay. See Pedros DYI for instructions, its easy and once you do it, you'll like it!

1, Beg, borrow steal a new top controller relay and see what happens.
2. Get out the top pry bar and disconnect the pivot arm ball joints to allow top and clam shell to operate manually. This will allow you to inspect the mechanical aspects of the top operation, along with allowing you to place the top in any position you want.

3. with top disconnected, get to the tops motor, which is directly underneath the rear window. Disconnect drive cables (to keep both sides in sync) and power the motor directly to check its condition.

[GTsilber]

Originally Posted by dghii

I guess you've got to do a little more digging with the top.



First off, handbrake illumination does not mean the microswitch for the top is good, Bypass the switch at the top controller relay. See Pedros DYI for instructions, its easy and once you do it, you'll like it!



1, Beg, borrow steal a new top controller relay and see what happens.

2. Get out the top pry bar and disconnect the pivot arm ball joints to allow top and clam shell to operate manually. This will allow you to inspect the mechanical aspects of the top operation, along with allowing you to place the top in any position you want.



3. with top disconnected, get to the tops motor, which is directly underneath the rear window. Disconnect drive cables (to keep both sides in sync) and power the motor directly to check its condition.

Thanks for the help...wasn't sure which Pedro article you were referring to but I tried the one for bending back pin 18 to drop the top while moving...didn't work for me is there another article that I should try?

How do I get my hands on another relay to test?

[BIGJake111]

Originally Posted by GTsilber

To be honest I think the PO had no idea this was a special edition. But even so, this is no way to treat a car, I am going to do my best to restore it.

I'm glad it's in good hands now. It would be more cost effective to just buy a car in working order. So it shows your dedication to go through the time and money to bring this car to the life it deserves.

[Timco]

Jump out micro switch at park brake first. It may be bad and the hand brake light will still light up.

Dammit. Dog farted. That's just awful.

That is all.

[GTsilber]

Originally Posted by BIGJake111

I'm glad it's in good hands now. It would be more cost effective to just buy a car in working order. So it shows your dedication to go through the time and money to bring this car to the life it deserves.

I've looked around for a SE, they are usually in the 18-20k range, and even then you still have to pony up for IMS fix and have potential for other issues like AOS...I would rather do the work myself, knowing the work was done right.