Dome light swap from 97 to 04 type, possible...? - Page 2 - 986 Forum - The Community for Porsche Boxster & Cayman Owners

oldskool73 · 10-16-2016, 08:29 AM

No I don't think so, looks too big. If you look at the last pic in the first post with the green PCB showing, it's the white connector there you need to fit on and it's quite small with tiny PCB type pins.

I think you'd have more luck with something like this (though I can't guarantee it's the right size, just looks more like it...) : https://buildyourcnc.com/Item/3d-printer-component-connector-female-2!54-pitch-newbiehack-connectors-female-2!54pitch-wrcon

I was lucky, I just found an old Arduino motor I had lying around that fitted and chopped it off.

oldskool73 · 10-16-2016, 08:39 AM

You might also be able to use the single pins, something like Single Pin Connector Set (1 set) - Servos and Stuff

Or even a simple PC fan connector, like https://allpinouts.org/pinouts/connectors/motherboards/motherboard-cpu-3-pin-fan-connector/ , although that would take a bit of filing to get rid off the ridges and make it fit, better to get a flat one if you can.

KevinH1990 · 10-16-2016, 08:46 AM

Thanks for the suggestions. I have a PC power supply that I use when I test my electronic work. I'm pretty sure it has some 3-pin connectors on it. If the guy who sold me light cannot provide the part from the car, it looks like I have several viable options for making this work.

Chuck W. · 10-16-2016, 11:16 AM

qualityporscheparts have the newer ones for sale for $52.50 OBO

01 Boxster s rwd Porsche 986 Black Interior Dome Roof Light 99661821002 48 485 | eBay

KevinH1990 · 10-16-2016, 04:35 PM

I purchased the part from another vendor and should receive it next week. Right now, I need the part to modify the wiring harness in my car so it will work with the updated part.

By the way - Oldskool - can you clarify a point in your instructions?

When you say:
old ---> new
left (door open power) ---> left
middle (ground) ---> right
right (constant power) ---> middle

Are you referencing the connector in the light or (male end) or the connector in the car (female end)?

Thanks

oldskool73 · 10-16-2016, 08:08 PM

Um, can't remember, it was a year ago, haha! Guess it would have been in the car side, as I just plugged the 3 pin connector into the light side then put male spade connectors onto the ends of the connector wire and stuck them into the slots in different combinations until it worked

One thing I never got working 'properly' is the little yellow LED, mine just goes on and off with the main light. Not sure if you can get this working so it's on all the time when the ignition is on, but I didn't bother looking into it too much.

KevinH1990 · 10-17-2016, 07:28 PM

Thanks. My part is scheduled to arrive on Wednesday, so I'll have an opportunity before the weekend to see if anything I have on had will fit in the connector. If not, I'll probably start contacting the folks who are parting out Boxsters and asking if they will cut the connector and a bit of wire out of their cars. I think the part design changed at some point in the 2001 MY. So I may have to check 2002-2004 cars to be sure I obtain the connector.

particlewave · 10-17-2016, 07:43 PM

If you still need assistance once the part arrives, take a picture of each side of the circuit board and I'll be able to tell you what to connect to what.

KevinH1990 · 10-17-2016, 08:04 PM

Thanks - I'm likely to need some guidance. I think I still owe you a favor for your assistance with my litronic project.

PaulDash · 10-18-2016, 05:02 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by oldskool73

One thing I never got working 'properly' is the little yellow LED, mine just goes on and off with the main light. Not sure if you can get this working so it's on all the time when the ignition is on, but I didn't bother looking into it too much.

If I remember, I had to short the ground and "constant 12V" to get it to work. Then rethinking it, I used the little switch as an on/off instead of intensity switch...

...and for over a year it's stayed off as it's not really all that useful.

KevinH1990 · 10-18-2016, 06:40 PM

The company that sold me the light assembly told me that they were also going to send me the connector from the car. I'll post some pictures when I receive it. Looking at the part may help explain how the part works.

KevinH1990 · 10-19-2016, 06:10 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by particlewave

If you still need assistance once the part arrives, take a picture of each side of the circuit board and I'll be able to tell you what to connect to what.

Do these show you enough? I probably won't receive the connector from the car until the weekend.

particlewave · 10-19-2016, 07:21 PM

Almost...can you pop the circuit board out and get a picture of the other side (with bulb out) so I can trace the circuits?

Pdwight · 10-19-2016, 07:24 PM

But what is the advantage ??

KevinH1990 · 10-19-2016, 07:28 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by particlewave

Almost...can you pop the circuit board out and get a picture of the other side (with bulb out) so I can trace the circuits?

I'll try tomorrow night.

KevinH1990 · 10-19-2016, 07:34 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Pdwight

But what is the advantage ??

1. I couldn't find the part like the one in my car for a reasonable price.
2. The newer part has a metal clip that holds it securely in place. The original part had plastic tabs. Mine broke when I took it out to change the bulb. The two sellers I contacted told the lights they had also had broken tabs.
3. There is an LED on the newer part that provides "ambient illumination." Not a big deal, but I always like novelty.
4. My old one is held in place with double-sided tape and it shakes loose after about 30 miles of driving. Living with that would start my car on the path to becoming a "beater."

particlewave · 10-19-2016, 07:46 PM

Never mind...got it.

In your first picture:

Top pin = 12V+ constant (the existing wire from your old light, red with black stripe).
Middle pin = switched ground ("" brown with yellow stripe).
Bottom pin = constant ground ("" brown wire).

particlewave · 10-19-2016, 08:07 PM

BTW, your new connector will have the same color coded wires in the correct orientation. Just match up the colors.

KevinH1990 · 10-20-2016, 03:58 AM

Thanks - I was hesitant to pull it apart.

KevinH1990 · 10-22-2016, 10:05 AM

My connector arrived yesterday courtesy of the nice folks at SpecializedGerman.

Particlewave and Oldskool's guidance was very helpful. I just cut off the connector, matched the wire colors, and used solder and shrink tubes to connect everything. I pulled the fuse (on my car it as in position C3) for the interior lights before cutting wires. Here's a picture of the light assembly showing the connector and wires:

Here's the connector and wiring in the car. I cut off the brown connector:

It's probably hard to tell due to the lighting, but the updated light and the original connector in the car have black/red, brown/yellow and brown wires. They are in different orders, but as Particlewave noted, just match the colors and it will work.

Here's the result with the "ambient lighting" LED switched on:

I'll experiment a little with switching it on and off. I doubt that it draws enough current to have a major effect on the battery. If anyone else runs into a problem with a broken "dome" light I recommend this upgrade.

Thanks to all who provided comments.