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Old 09-05-2012, 05:48 AM   #1
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And if everything Mark said isn't enough, the poles are going to shift on Dec 21, the outer crust of the Earth will reverse motion, when it stops to change directions the Oceans will slop over the lands and wipe out most of us as mother Earth has correctly surmised that we truly need to get rid of numerous Richardheads....

So till then.... Drive the best sports car you can get your mitts on, smile frequently, be friendly, smoke a ten dollar cigar, drink a stupid expensive single malt, treat 2012 like Mayan and Egyptian predictions are fact, that way, if the dung does contact the fan at least you went out hearty and among-st the small group of humans privileged enough to fire up one of the best cars on the planet. If the ancients are wrong we get to have Christmas all over again May 2013 when the driving season in NY begins again.

Last edited by Ghostrider 310; 09-05-2012 at 05:55 AM.
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Old 09-05-2012, 06:16 AM   #2
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The general consensus around here seems to be that $2000/yr is typical maintenance costs on the 986's.

Do the wrenching yourself and perhaps its half that or less.

I agree with the others that the reason you buy a Porsche is because "There is no substitute" and having just got mine in May of this year I totally agree.

Nothing drives or handles like a Boxster unless you can afford one of those super cars.

You buy it because you love the drive!

Also, buy the "S" model or you may fall prey to "S" envy sooner or later.

There are a number of weak points in many model year combinations and from my research I choose the 2001 "S" because the cylinders are the most robust as described by a Porsche engine re-builder on these forums.

The RMS is an annoyance if you get it but the IMS issue can destroy your engine if you are in the unlucky 5% that are stricken. Thats why you will read the IMS proactive replacements being done with a 3rd party improved part, when the clutch needs replacement.

Avoid a car that has ANY dripping oil from the engine as its likely the RMS or IMS and guaranteed to cost you $1000 or more to fix.

A good car that needs no repairs should leak absolutely nothing.

In the end only you can decide but if you test drive a Boxster and don't fall in love then don't bother and just accept a cheap substitute.

PS: Due to the support by the great members in this forum/site, if you can wrench on your car there is virtually nothing you will not be able to do yourself, including making a Boxster race ready, upgrading engines and anything else. That is what you get when you hang out with enthusiasts.
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2001 Boxster S, Top Speed muffler, (Fred's) Mini Morimotto Projectors, Tarret UDP,
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Last edited by jb92563; 09-05-2012 at 06:27 AM.
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Old 09-05-2012, 07:07 AM   #3
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Greetings,

I have never understood why people suggest that changing the oil on a Box is difficult or requires special tools...neither is the case.

In reality, an oil service on my 2002 S is much easier than on my Lex GS400 or my GF's M Cooper S. The filter is right next to the oil pan. A small oil filter wrench or strap wrench makes it easy (don't over-tighten it). The drain plug is easily accessed as well. You need a jack, jack stands, a simple metric socket set and whatever you want to use to grab the oil filter (sticky rubber gloves would probably be enough to remove it by hand as long as it's clean.

If I paid $400 for an oil service I don't think I'd be able to sit down for a week!

Hengst filters are $14 on line and 5 qt jugs of the synthetic of your choice can be had for under $30.

My oil changes cost me:

~$30X2=$60 + $14 = $74 at the most, even if I figure my time at $200hr (time you'd spend in the dealer's reception area anyway) I am doing better than going to a dealership, plus I get to inspect the underside of the car.

It's really not a big deal and not beyond the capabilities of any healthy adult I've met.

Stop the bleeding folks, save your cash for real repairs...
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Old 09-05-2012, 12:31 PM   #4
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Ok, what is the deal with the IMS? And was it ever 'fixed' in any of the 986's years of production?

It appears that a 'fix' is an aftermarket piece?

I'm assuming failure of this can kill the engine?

I've driven a few examples but not really inspected them, but where should I look for oil? I'm assuming the undercarriage is covered by aerodynamic flimflam?

Also, what's the average life of a clutch?
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