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Old 11-14-2014, 06:58 AM   #1
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I disagree. My PPI was done using a three page form which called for both opinions and facts. It included measurements including rotor thickness, leakdown results, plug condition, etc. It let me know exactly what I'd be wanting to do to put the car in condition to carry me through for the next 5 years of almost perfectly trouble free driving...and it did. My PPI included a line by line review of the results with the car still up in the air, and taught me a lot even though I had owned a Boxster for the prior 6 months. It also gave me leverage when negotiating the price. We agreed on a price prior to the PPI subject to major findings. All findings were shared with the seller. He got a copy too. I felt it helped to create a fair deal for both the buyer and seller.

Is there a difference between a good PPI and a bad one? You bet. Ask to see the write up from a prior one the mechanic has done. Ask if it includes a cam deviation check.
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Old 11-14-2014, 07:06 AM   #2
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SeaNile31 View Post
They are hiding nothing on this car. Traded in at Porsche dealership across the street which they are associated with.

Their rule is no car stays on the lot more than 30 days. November 23rd will be 30 days and car will goto auction the following week. At 14850 I think we are at or very close to wholesale pricing. Even the places that will buy your car on the spot says it's worth 14000.

Kind of feel like for 15K it's a lot of car with minimal risk, aside from IMS failure, etc.

Even with PPI showing it needs X amount I don't think the dealer will discount, especially if car is going to auction.

^all the more reason to have one of their guys drive it to the indy for the inspection you will be paying for. It's a no brainer. Transparency leads to more sales when it comes to out-of-warranty cars requiring specialized labor and expensive parts.

Also, even if they are not hiding something they may be afraid that if you do find something you'll have leverage. If you don't PPI they have leverage. If the car goes to auction I doubt they're going to get a high bid similar to the lot price. I assume it's going to Manheim?
Personally if no inspection is made I would give them a low ball offer 24 hours before that 30th day. I'm sure the sales manager would rather have a sale even if at break even than a low milieage car they couldn't move in 30 days.
And it has to be low ball because it wasn't inspected. You have to factor in the wiggle room.
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Last edited by Perfectlap; 11-14-2014 at 07:11 AM.
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Old 11-14-2014, 09:24 AM   #3
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Do the PPI. I bought mine from a dealer who had it on consignment. I relied on their PPI which did not show a leaking coolant tank, need to new brakes, a need for new CV joints, a new mash air flow senor. I ended up spending another $2K on the car right after I purchased to have these items taken car of.

I would have used these items to bargain with them to get a lower price on my car.
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Old 11-16-2014, 08:26 AM   #4
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you are getting a good price on that car . A PPI will cement a good deal for you. or at least have them put it up on a lift so you can take a look .
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Old 11-14-2014, 07:12 AM   #5
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I'll go the route of the Indy shop doing the PPI. Bet the dealer balks at the fact that they can't get it there because it's 20-25 min away.
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