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Old 07-25-2014, 06:13 PM   #1
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CV boot replacement

Well, while under there looking to replace my CPS (see thread prior to this one), I noticed my CV boot on the transmission side is nearly completely separated. That can't be good right? All I saw was $$$ when i noticed it.. so.. maybe it's not so bad to replace that?

What all does it involve? Haven't checked the other side, but most likely needs replacement too... one thing after another!!!

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Old 07-25-2014, 08:25 PM   #2
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Quote:
Originally Posted by stateofidleness View Post
Well, while under there looking to replace my CPS (see thread prior to this one), I noticed my CV boot on the transmission side is nearly completely separated. That can't be good right? All I saw was $$$ when i noticed it.. so.. maybe it's not so bad to replace that?

What all does it involve? Haven't checked the other side, but most likely needs replacement too... one thing after another!!!
It depends. If only the boots are torn but the joints haven't lost all the lubrication they need, and they are not worn, I think you only need to replace the boots, which is what I did on mine, a do-able DIY, mostly labor. If the inner (transmission side) joints are bad, they are sold separately and not very expensive. If you need to replace the outer joints, I think those are only available as whole half axles ($$$).
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Old 07-26-2014, 05:39 AM   #3
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you can replace the boots with the axle still attached to the hub but it is better to remove the whole axle to service it throughly .
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Old 07-26-2014, 07:14 AM   #4
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Usually it takes a long time for the boot to deteriorate to the point where it separates. During this time, dirt and water have been able to get inside the boot and into the grease in the CV joint. This is why most shops and the dealer (for sure) will want to remove the CV joint, clean thoroughly, inspect for wear (replace if necessary), re-grease, and re-install with a new boot.

You can do the quick DIY fix and just replace the boot but the dirt, sand, and water that is in the grease won't help the longevity of the CV joint. But if you don't have the money and need to put this repair off into the future, you can take this route and it will probably be ok for awhile.

Now, if I can rant for a second - why the heck are we relying on a rubber boot that everyone knows will deteriorate and cause the need for an expensive repair? And if we know this, why isn't replacing the boots part of the standard maintenance? I always feel that if these darn boots are so critical to preventing an expensive repair that you'd think that someone would make them out of more permanent lasting material or come up with a better enclosure! Rant complete. Thank you.
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Last edited by thstone; 07-26-2014 at 07:21 AM.
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Old 07-26-2014, 10:07 AM   #5
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was thinking the same thing stone.. a $10 part to protect a $1,000 repair..

I'm about to hit 90k miles, so will justify it as "90k maintenance". Will have to wait for the funds to come in, but will most likely replace with new axles and everything all at once. I'm thinking this is the reason for my "squeaking" sound in the rear that I've been hearing for a while... most likely there's no grease left at all, and to be honest, I've probably damaged some stuff as I've been driving with it like that for a while (haven't looked under for a while).

They should design a boot that can be slipped around the axle and then sealed some how. The expense in this repair is the labor to take everything apart and reinstall...
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Old 07-26-2014, 10:24 AM   #6
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Its not that bad to do but I just remove the shaft and have it rebuilt locally. I'm sure there is a local re builder out where you are that will tear the joints apart clean rebuild if nec, re grease and install new boots for less than 100 a axle.

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