JFP - always appreciate your posts... So, in this case...with an older Boxster does the Durametric software treat PSM and plain old Traction Control (TC) in the same manner?

My 2000S has TC, but not PSM as far as I know...

Either way- sounds like it's time for me to get the Durametric.

TIA -

Basically, yes.

Your 2000 could have PSM as that was the transitional year from TC to PSM; just remember that back then, both were options.

Not much forward progress tonight. Although I am beginning to like using the pressure bleeder (thanks again Randy). I once again attempted to "cycle" the ABS with my Durametric, but no noise, no hum, no motor noise, no click, nothing! The only thing I can do is turn on the light. I bled the brakes again and no air bubbles, and the pedal still goes to the floor, bummer. Not sure what to do next except call a tow truck. Chris

Have you flat bedded it in yet? I think I have hen solution. Need another hour to experiment. Looking good, lots of air out visibly.

not yet, I'm hoping you are my savior :)

I'm taking pics. Getting massive air out. It's the technique. Keep that power bleeder. Get 50' of 3/16 ID 5/16 OD vinyl tubing. Clean white small plastic bucket. 3 qts DOT 4. I'm taking pics now. Still watching the bubble parade.

I have maybe 15 ft of 3/16 tubing, perhaps keep the pressure bleeder going for hours? Do you pump the pedal during all this time? Is it possible you are drawing air bubbles thru the threads in the bleeder nipple, or you really getting the air out of the ABS slowly but surely?

I'm dying to know your trick. I have lost faith in the Durametric for this procedure.

I haven't yet bled my brakes as i usually make every mistake one can make when wrenching. I will usually never get it wrong again though. A motiv bleeder is on my list as i want to replace my brake lines. Good luck!

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I have definitely done this before, open the threads too much and you get a steady stream of bubbles coming in through the threads.

I am curious to see what the results are; I bled the brakes on my FJ and I have never been 100% satisfied; they did not get rock hard like the brakes on my tacomas after I bled them.

OK. With the power bleeder up to 25, open a valve with the clear tubing running up and over a spring, then down to the floor to the reservoir. Use a high-power flashlight and look through the tubing. There are micro bubbles streaming out. This is not from the bleeder screw threads, since the power bleeder is making positive pressure and fluid is weeping from those threads, hence the rag needed to catch that. After 10 brake pumps, the bubbles stop, but only because they are very fast now and they make a cloud. The bubbles slow down half way through the tube and you can see them line up on the top of the tubing. After 20-30 min of this, the micro bubbles stop or slow. Then you know that line is done. Sometimes a cloud of bubbles came through, then a large bubble, then trails of small micro bubbles.

If you re-use fluid from the reservoir, it has to sit 5 min to let it de-gas after pouring it back into the power bleeder.

I did this to my rears first. Pedal came right back, felt fine. Drove around the belt route. Got back, noticed rears wearing fine but fronts still had L & R stamps on the rotor surface...no grip from fronts at all! Got 4-6 large bubble equivalents out and they bite now, but I am still going to have Porsche bleed them tomorrow to be done with it.

It's time for me to let the professionals handle it, so I got a flat bed on the way to pick her up. I was hoping there was a simple solution, and Durametric wasn't it.

Sorry this didnt work out for you. A group of guys on this forum met up a year or so ago at Top Speed where we used two motive bleeders and we did about three or four boxsters. Kenny Boxster might correct me if Im wrong but what we did was suction out as much fluid out of the resovoir, then refilled mine with Atf blue. Placed power bleeder on battery compartment and pumped the bleeder. That created the pressure to bleed the brakes while double checking that it doesnt go dry. Open up the bleeder valves starting from the furthest brake from master cylinder. (Left rear?) Watch for new fluid to appear un mixed then close valve and wipe up spills. We had some alcohol pads, didnt want to ruin those red painted calipers.. No pumping brakes and no mushy brake pedal when done. Motive bleeder is the way to go.

$139 to flush and bleed. Found significant air.

Shuttle to & from shop in 2014 Cayanne Turbo S.

We shall see! Hawk rear ceramics in today.

I agree to Motive bleeder is simple to use. I screwed up when I didn't top off the reservoir and sucked in a massive air bubble.. that's where we are now... air trapped in the ABS and a Durametric that was "supposed" to cycle the ABS. She's going to German European Imports to get fixed.

Randy, I need to return the bleeder back to you. Any time you need Durametric for anything (except cycling the ABS lol) you have a free ticket with me anytime. :cheers: Chris

$929.38 cents later My brakes were bled and power booster replaced (not including the tow truck). German European Imports in Plano did the work. I thought that was a bit pricey, but I desperately needed to get this fixed. Sam was originally going to charge me $1,200 after taking a look it, and I told him I'll call the tow truck and come get my car. He said he'd work with me and get the part cheaper. So $929 was the deal. I got my car back filthy dirty as it was left outside. I would have felt a little better if I got it back clean like it was the day I had it towed. I also noticed I got drip stains on my headlight lens I suspect brake fluid was spilled, and really feeling sick to my stomach. I can't prove they did it unless I noticed it right when I picked up the car (but it was filthy dirty). The car sat in my garage for a week as I was out of town, and discovered the stains last night. I'm now considering selling the car.

for the record... It is possible that I could have caused the stains myself, but I really have no way of knowing. I was extremely careful when handling the power bleeder. I think I would have noticed this already if I would have caused it.

So you had a bad master cylinder? Although you claim the brakes worked prior to tinkering with it. Some indies are just messy. You can try buying the 3m headlight repair and grinding out the imperfection.

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I'm not saying it won't take aeons to bleed with a long hose and gravity, but its free and you can do it by yourself.

Its interesting looking at this software and the control over the whole brake system. I feel like If the resovoir were bigger, the car could almost be programmed to bleed out the bubbles itself :)

By the way if your fluid is green and you open the cap and see patches of what looks like oil, water or water lillies, you are already WAY overdue for your brake fluid. Its typically done every 2 to 4 years on a non-track car, though in my city I've seen people go over ten years. Its magic that their brakes didn't outright fail.