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Old 01-16-2006, 12:57 PM   #1
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Question I want to put 2nd power port (lighter) in.

I would like to put a new 12V power port in the empty spot to the left of the stereo. I know I can get a non-smoker's part, but how/where would it be connected that is safe and turns off when the car is off? Any ideas?

TIA!
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Old 01-16-2006, 01:18 PM   #2
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Quote:
Originally Posted by deliriousga
I would like to put a new 12V power port in the empty spot to the left of the stereo. I know I can get a non-smoker's part, but how/where would it be connected that is safe and turns off when the car is off? Any ideas?

TIA!

John,

If it were me, I'd run it straight to the FuseBox. RadioShack sells a Product called a Blade-Type Fuse Tap - Part# 270-1204 - Pack of 4 under $2 - see: http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2102780&cp . These are Brass pieces which fit under the Blades of a standard Automotive Fuse. You insert the Fuse into the Fuse Tap (Positive + side) and then insert the Fuse into the Fusebox. This leaves an exposed Male Blade to which you can insert a Female Connector.

Install the Lighter Socket as you describe and ground one side by splicing into any Brown Wire. Put a Female Crimp Connector onto another wire, (I'd go with 14Ga) and string this through to the FuseBox (using Wire Ties to keep it secure, out of the way) and attach it to the Male Spade from the FuseTap.

On the 2000 MY, Fuse # D4 is unused and so you could add a 15Amp Fuse there to draw Fused Power for the Lighter Socket. 15 Amp is the Rating for the existing Lighter Fuse, so you'd be OK. Very Easy install. Good Luck!...

Happy Motoring!... Jim'99

Last edited by MNBoxster; 01-16-2006 at 08:26 PM.
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Old 01-16-2006, 10:19 PM   #3
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Hi,

While we're on the Subject of making Electrical Hacks to the Boxster I think it's important to pass on some information I learned when doing electrical work on my and several friends Lotus throughout the years. In Lotus Case, they used extremely complex electrical systems, much more so than were required - Lucas, King of Darkness and all that. If you didn't learn to make proper connections, you could be hunting Gremlins for years. I hate doing a Job twice because some connection failed, so I always use this method and have never had a connection fail, even after years of use.

When making splices into the Factory Harness, avoid the Crimp-On type Splice Connectors. In addition to being notorious for causing Short Circuits (which in the Boxster can lead to replacing some VERY Spendy electronic components), they are generally very poorly made, do not make strong connections, often causing the Wire to split, will corrode easily, or otherwise give poor service through the years.

See my attachment for the Proper Method to make Solid, Strong and Long-Lasting Electrical Splices and Connections. This method is certainly not quite as easy as the $0.99 Crimp Splicers, but will give better, stronger, more Long-Lasting results with significantly fewer Failures and Frustrations. Hope this helps...

Happy Motoring!... Jim'99

Last edited by MNBoxster; 01-16-2006 at 11:16 PM.
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Old 01-17-2006, 07:56 AM   #4
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Aaahhhhh. So nice to see someone else who uses pretty (and strong) connections.

Thanks for the info. I'm most likely going to use one of the additional fuse slots to keep from messing with other systems. I need to check the amps on the open slots that work only when the engine is on. If none of the empty slots can handle the amps, what is the best line to splice into?
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Old 01-17-2006, 09:12 AM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by deliriousga
Aaahhhhh. So nice to see someone else who uses pretty (and strong) connections.

Thanks for the info. I'm most likely going to use one of the additional fuse slots to keep from messing with other systems. I need to check the amps on the open slots that work only when the engine is on. If none of the empty slots can handle the amps, what is the best line to splice into?
John,

What slots are you talking about? The 2000 MY indicates unused fuses in location D4, E9, and E10 in the Fuse Panel. There will be a few more depending upon your Option pkg.

Unfortunately, each of these is indicated by the Wiring Schematic to be supplied directly by Battery Power, independent of the Ignition Switch (You will want to confirm this with a Multi-meter as innacuracies in Wiring Diagrams are often common). This means that you'll need to tap into another fused circuit (using something like the Blade Taps I described) which is supplied with power only when the Ignition Switch is in the Park, Run, or Start positions. Again, according to the Schematics, there are very few of these.

One possibility would be Fuse # A8, reserved for License Plate Lights (Canadian Models only) and so s/b unused. Another is Fuse #C5 (unused in 2000) and C6 which is your Wipers/Washers (which don't run often) and are Ignition Switch dependent in the Run or Start positions - it is already rated at 25Amps.

For Ground, to avoid splicing into the existing Harness, I would take my Ground Wire and crimp a 'O' Ring style connector on it and attach it at Ground Point GP4 which is Under the Dash, close to the Center Console on the Driver's side - this is also the Ground Point for the existing Cigarette Lighter. Hope this helps...

Happy Motoring!... Jim'99

Last edited by MNBoxster; 01-17-2006 at 09:14 AM.
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Old 01-18-2006, 08:21 PM   #6
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Any particular reason you're going for switched power? Only reason I ask is that the factory socket is non-switched... you could always just piggy-back off that and therefore the fuse panel would match the use. Or do you need more amps than the single socket rating?
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Old 01-19-2006, 08:52 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by donv
Any particular reason you're going for switched power? Only reason I ask is that the factory socket is non-switched... you could always just piggy-back off that and therefore the fuse panel would match the use. Or do you need more amps than the single socket rating?
I bought my wife a Garmin "Nuvi" navigator for Christmas and I want it to turn off every time you get out of the car. We have to unplug it every time right now and it is going to wear the plug and lighter out and it's a risk of leaving it plugged in on accident.
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2000 Boxster Speed Yellow/Black 5-Speed
1966 Wife White/Brown Top
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Old 01-19-2006, 08:57 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MNBoxster
John,

What slots are you talking about? The 2000 MY indicates unused fuses in location D4, E9, and E10 in the Fuse Panel. There will be a few more depending upon your Option pkg.

Unfortunately, each of these is indicated by the Wiring Schematic to be supplied directly by Battery Power, independent of the Ignition Switch (You will want to confirm this with a Multi-meter as innacuracies in Wiring Diagrams are often common). This means that you'll need to tap into another fused circuit (using something like the Blade Taps I described) which is supplied with power only when the Ignition Switch is in the Park, Run, or Start positions. Again, according to the Schematics, there are very few of these.

One possibility would be Fuse # A8, reserved for License Plate Lights (Canadian Models only) and so s/b unused. Another is Fuse #C5 (unused in 2000) and C6 which is your Wipers/Washers (which don't run often) and are Ignition Switch dependent in the Run or Start positions - it is already rated at 25Amps.

For Ground, to avoid splicing into the existing Harness, I would take my Ground Wire and crimp a 'O' Ring style connector on it and attach it at Ground Point GP4 which is Under the Dash, close to the Center Console on the Driver's side - this is also the Ground Point for the existing Cigarette Lighter. Hope this helps...

Happy Motoring!... Jim'99
Sorry for the delay Jim. I have a deadline I'm trying to meet at work.

Anyway, I'm thinkng about the seat heater or possibly the headlight washer circuit since I don't have either. I will definitely ground it directly rather than through another circuit.
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2000 Boxster Speed Yellow/Black 5-Speed
1966 Wife White/Brown Top
1986 Daughter White/Brown Top (Sold!)
1992 Daughter White/Blonde Top
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