'01 Boxster w/ 50k miles BUT has been in crash

[thom4782]

I have driven manual transmission cars as my primary vehicle for over 30 years. Of all sports cars I've owned, my Boxster gives me the most difficulty when starting from standstill. Occasionally, I will still stall the engine.

When downshifting into first, I would not say the transition is butter smooth. I do need to apply a bit more pressure than when I downshift into other gears. That said, I would not say that I need to force the transmission into first gear.

[BruceH]

First, like the other poster mentioned, can be a little stiff, but yes, if the rest are smooth, that is how it should be. If you haven't driven a stick in awhile, it will take you time to master it.

[eli cash]

Ok that sounds like how it felt for me. Another question: how much exterior (non-engine) noise should I hear? My only gripe was that the ride was a little noisy.

[BruceH]

Get a PPI and see what that says. It might give you some more negotiating leverage. Only you can decide what you are comfortable spending, but a good condition car that doesn't need much right away is better than a "cheaper" car that hasn't been properly cared for. You also need some cushion for any surprises. A 2000 S with that mileage and at that price is a pretty good deal IMHO. I paid $13,750 for my 2001 S a year ago with 64K miles and it was in excellent condition.

[thstone]

Get a PPI and use that to help negotiate.

Never believe what the seller says about what someone else offered him (he should have taken it if it was so great).

Turn your thinking around: Will the seller really want to lose a cash sale over $1,000? Force the seller to make the decision.

Therefore, if you really want the car, show up with cash and make your offer - if the seller declines, then walk away.

Do not get emotionally attached.

I'll say it again: do not get emotionally attached.

Its a buyers market, another equally good or better car will turn up at the same or better price within a short time.

Make sure that you have $2,000 left over after the purchase to fix whatever the owner "forgot" to mention or anything that happens to crop up in the first year of ownership. It is normal to need a few repairs on a 10+ year old car.

Get ready to own the best car of your life and start living the dream!

[eli cash]

Originally Posted by thstone

Get a PPI and use that to help negotiate.

Never believe what the seller says about what someone else offered him (he should have taken it if it was so great).

Turn your thinking around: Will the seller really want to lose a cash sale over $1,000? Force the seller to make the decision.

Therefore, if you really want the car, show up with cash and make your offer - if the seller declines, then walk away.

Do not get emotionally attached.

I'll say it again: do not get emotionally attached.

Its a buyers market, another equally good or better car will turn up at the same or better price within a short time.

Make sure that you have $2,000 left over after the purchase to fix whatever the owner "forgot" to mention or anything that happens to crop up in the first year of ownership. It is normal to need a few repairs on a 10+ year old car.

Get ready to own the best car of your life and start living the dream!

Ok so here's what I did:

Basically sent him an email explaining that I am a serious buyer and reminding him that he could have cash. Also mentioned the IMS problem explained to me by a Porsche mechanic (which I would be taking off his hands) and told him how Edmonds appraised the car (which is well below his asking point).

Don't know if this was the right move or not. Don't want to sound too desperate or arrogant. But, hey, I can still walk away if he balks. No harm.