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Old 07-08-2013, 07:48 PM   #21
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Originally Posted by Hayden View Post

Well, that's progress!

...
So where are we now with this particular car? I got a top that manually goes up and down, but to my surprise, the convertible light is still on. I thought once the top latch was secured, the "system" wouldn't care anymore.
...
In the "B Version" top transmissions Boxsters (i.e., 2000 and later), the transmissions are 360 degree gears, unlike the earlier versions that had "half-moon" gears". Inside the driver's side transmission in the B Versions, one of the two microswitches is the one that "tells" the "top open" light to go on and to go off.

If you manage to rotate the V-levers with the electric motor (now that you have access to the electric motor), you should be able to get the light to go out.

Testing the electric motor would be the best place to start to try to diagnose the source of the problem.

Regards, Maurice.

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Old 07-11-2013, 08:07 PM   #22
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Going through the EXACT same thing currently and trying to eliminate switches little by little. I replaced the one under the handbrake already and that fixed my "PARK" light on the gauge issue. But no dice on the top going up or down consistently.

I have a 2000 so I'm guessing I have the "B Version" transmissions as well. I unhooked the transmission cables from the motor on both sides and when I hold the switch down, the motor continuously spins like it should (no dead spots or hesitation). This is a good thing right?

My next step will be the microswitch above the rearview mirror. My top light doesn't go on at all, even in fully-closed position. That's gotta mean something right?

EDIT: I'm going to try to stop by the dealership tomorrow to get the microswitch above the mirror, but I'm a little confused still on what "Version" I have. Being a 2000 makes it even more difficult. I don't have the little "lever switch" thing on the top of the motor under the clamshell. I DO have the dual-row looking switch above the mirror though. Every reference I see to this switch though says 97-99!

97-99 - 986.613.795.02 (http://www.************************************************************************************.com/store/cart.php?m=product_detail&p=9045) looks like my switch, but will that work on my year model?

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Old 07-12-2013, 09:43 AM   #23
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Going through the EXACT same thing currently and trying to eliminate switches little by little. I replaced the one under the handbrake already and that fixed my "PARK" light on the gauge issue. But no dice on the top going up or down consistently.

I have a 2000 so I'm guessing I have the "B Version" transmissions as well. I unhooked the transmission cables from the motor on both sides and when I hold the switch down, the motor continuously spins like it should (no dead spots or hesitation). This is a good thing right?

My next step will be the microswitch above the rearview mirror. My top light doesn't go on at all, even in fully-closed position. That's gotta mean something right?

EDIT: I'm going to try to stop by the dealership tomorrow to get the microswitch above the mirror, but I'm a little confused still on what "Version" I have. Being a 2000 makes it even more difficult. I don't have the little "lever switch" thing on the top of the motor under the clamshell. I DO have the dual-row looking switch above the mirror though. Every reference I see to this switch though says 97-99!

97-99 - 986.613.795.02 (911 / 356 Porsche Parts | Porsche, Wurth and Fuchs Wheels | Sierra Madre Collection) looks like my switch, but will that work on my year model?
No dead spots or hesitation is definitely a good thing.

Not having the black lever microswitch on top of the electric motor means it's the B-version transmissions and set-up. To confirm it further, take a look at the double relay in the relay tray above the fuse tray in the driver's side kick panel. If you have a black square on the top surface of that relay, it's definitely the B-Version system. A black triangle is for the A Version.

The parallel strips microswitch in the convertible top latch receptacle assembly can cause intermittent operation because it develops cracks which are hard to see with the naked eye. The cracks are minute enough that heat (such as the sun beating down on that area) can cause it to make contact and break contact again when it cools down. If you are not sure which version of this microswitch you have, remove it and bring it to the dealer to compare with the new part.

If the "convertible top open" light does not go on or off at the appropriate times in the cycle, you have to look into one of the two microswitches INSIDE the driver's side transmission.

Regards, Maurice.
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Old 07-12-2013, 10:37 AM   #24
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Hi Maurice! This may be backtracking, and answered elsewhere, but is there a way to manually test if the upper microswitch is working? If I latch it the windows go up. If I unlatch it, they drop. With it latched, vs. unlatched, the alarm acts as it should. Does this mean it is working, or is there another sensor in there that detects something, which cannot be tested manually?

Currently, I have all the rods taken off the v-levers and am enjoying the car's manual mode, though the clamshell and top assembly rattle around a lot. I can live with that for now. Keeping an eye on things though. That trim at the back of the clamshell can come loose, it seems. Bungie cords, or some sort of spring to connect the old v-lever to the clamshell attachment point is my next project. Maybe adding some rubbing strips to keep it from clunking. Honestly, I like the manual mode a lot. It also allows me to fold the plastic window more perfectly as it goes down, so it doesn't crinkle up as much.
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Old 07-13-2013, 07:58 AM   #25
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Stopped by dealership today. Confirmed the difference between the two part numbers, one being -99 and the other 00+. I have a 2000, so of course, it could go either way, so I'm gonna have to take it loose to see what I have. For shigrins, I asked him what that switch costs and he says $110!!! yikes. He said "Yea, the prices go up every 2 weeks. Been like that for years now" (something to that effect). Good to know... that's why i'll keep supporting our vendors online!!

Now, I'm having a real hard time finding that 00+ part number online to purchase. 986.613.799.00

Where's the cheapest place online to get that one?
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Old 07-13-2013, 08:35 AM   #26
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Im not sure why you are even looking to replace that switch , but anyway , Your dealer is ripping you off !!!
It is a $70 part collected at the counter (minus my pca discount)
Or a 55 buck part if I order online and pay at the counter . ( I'm only 15 mins away so never pay for delivery)


Last edited by Ian c; 07-13-2013 at 08:38 AM.
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Old 07-13-2013, 02:51 PM   #27
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wow that's crazy! well I knew he sounded high on the price (which is why I passed on it), but sheesh!!

Was looking to replace as it was a cheaper/easier fix than the transmission stuff under the clamshell. Going through process of elimination with all the parts of the system...

I STILL have not managed to get the convertible top light to come on no matter what. I guess my next step is to crack open that driver's side top transmission and see if something isn't right. I managed to break the little clips on the courtesy light above the rearview mirror when taking apart that latch assembly.. ugh...

I did confirm I have the "B version" setup though. Is it dumb to just purchase a new/used left transmission and swap it out? I've run out of things to check.

EDIT: I tried to look at that switch without taking the two little gold "clips" off, but never saw a part number on it?? I can't tell if I need the -99 one or the 00+ one (i have a '00 though).
EDIT 2: Also, that is corrosion on each end of the two strips. I scraped it off and cleaned both real well. Checked continuity of each strip with a multimeter and reinstalled, but didn't seem to help at all.
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Old 07-13-2013, 02:54 PM   #28
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Have you checked the bulb ?
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Old 07-13-2013, 02:57 PM   #29
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Not yet
I guess that could be checked huh? Doesn't seem like it will resolve the actual issue in this case but may help me know if the switches are being "triggered" properly.
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Old 07-13-2013, 03:06 PM   #30
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In all honesty , it would be the first thing I'd check !!!

That dash light should only be OFF when the hood is either up or down .
from the time it is unlatched at the front all the way to its fully down position , and viceversa it should be lit .
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Old 07-20-2013, 03:13 PM   #31
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In all honesty , it would be the first thing I'd check !!!

That dash light should only be OFF when the hood is either up or down .
from the time it is unlatched at the front all the way to its fully down position , and viceversa it should be lit .
Finally got around to this today.. got the gauge cluster off and... SURE ENOUGH!! the bulbs for the 3 right-most items was gone. I think I had removed these a while back during a "blue light" conversion on the gauges. So.. I put bulbs in the two that appeared to be related to the top (the furthest right and the one directly next to it to the left).

Put the key in.. convertible top light is ON! played with the button a few times, got the top all the way open again and remained holding the button to see if it would turn off, nope. Holding it long enough eventually resulted in "clicks" on the driver's side transmission area.

Well I had one of these delivered today as well and am in the middle of the swap. I'm at the point where I have the new one in, but the V-lever is in a different spot than my original was. I guess this is the "syncing" I see a lot of DIY's reference. I'm not understanding the drill approach. I put my drill on the cable end of the new transmission, give it a few presses, but I don't see the V-lever side move at all. Is that supposed to happen?

What is the other option to get the V-levers lined up? disconnect the passenger side (original and working) and then use the car's switch to make it rotate? Do I keep the incorrect V-lever side cable connected or disconnected during this?
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Old 07-20-2013, 05:20 PM   #32
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What a pain in the assssssss

I'm to the point of assuming that my (used) replacement transmission assembly and cable has a bad cable on it. Nothing I do makes the V-lever move at all. Tried the drill trick, the motor, nothing works...

Is the metal cable inside the black sheath supposed to be able to go in and out?? What keeps the cable on the transmission end from "unplugging" from the little metal roller inside? I hear the cable "turning", but the v-lever never moves no matter how long I hold the button or spin the drill for. Is this a clear indicator the cable isn't seated?
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Old 07-20-2013, 10:53 PM   #33
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...............
Well I had one of these delivered today as well and am in the middle of the swap. I'm at the point where I have the new one in, but the V-lever is in a different spot than my original was. I guess this is the "syncing" I see a lot of DIY's reference. I'm not understanding the drill approach. I put my drill on the cable end of the new transmission, give it a few presses, but I don't see the V-lever side move at all. Is that supposed to happen?

What is the other option to get the V-levers lined up? disconnect the passenger side (original and working) and then use the car's switch to make it rotate? Do I keep the incorrect V-lever side cable connected or disconnected during this?
Because there is a slot at the rear of the V-levers there are two possible ways to install them...the correct position and 180 degrees off. So, first check to see if you may have re-installed that V-lever upside down.

More likely, the new transmission was at a different point in the rotation cycle than the one that you removed. For the drill approach, disconnect the drive cable from the electric motor on that side and insert the inner metal cable into the chuck of a cordless drill, set on the LOWEST torque setting. When you turn on the drill, it will spin the inner cable which will turn the worm gear at the rear of the transmission and that will then rotate the big gear and the V-lever will then start to rotate.

Make sure that you put a little pressure on the end of the inner metal cable by pushing the drill towards the transmission. It is sometimes possible to just pull out the inner metal cable from its metal sheath, so make sure that it is engaged.

The drill will spin quickly but the V-lever will rotate slowly.

If the lever does not rotate at all, the inner metal cable may be split or frayed, or the worm gear may not be completely secured in its place because the black plastic housing cover may be slightly deformed.

If you want to try the other option, just keep in mind that pressing the button will only turn the V-lever if the electric motor is spinning with the drive cable properly engaged both at the electric motor side and at the transmission side.

You have to have the "original and working side" disconnected so that the other side can "catch up".

If you want a good starting point for synchronizing the transmissions, take a look at the photo on page 39 and the text at the bottom of page 38 on the Part III PDF at this link: https://sites.google.com/site/mikefocke2/installinga'03-'04glasstopandframeona'97

Regards, Maurice.
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Old 07-21-2013, 08:10 AM   #34
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Looks like you have gotten excellent advice thus far. Just went through a similar issue with my 2002S. Right side drive cable was broken. That was not the cause of failure. The problem you had with ball pin stuck in the black spring push-rod is what caused mine to fail. Forced the upper pin of the black push-rod out (under tension & big pop). The bat wing Vee bar was so tight I don't think I could have loosened it with a box wrench. I used a socket and breaker bar (long pipe on handle of 1/2 inch drive). Not good for your tools but one click at the time it finally came loose. The rear bolt to top push-rod was fairly easy
Then to the vise to pry black push-rod off ball pin. Corrosion of this socket caused failure. Cleaned and lubed socket and now working. Had to use the vise to press ball back into socket. Replacements on order. I hate to cut any parts. As Maurice said you have to spin the cable a lot for very little movement. If you are certain the drive cable is good and you are certain the transmission is not moving, there is a plastic gear in the trans mission that can break. Not totally convinced a corroded socket caused failure I did open the transmission. Fortunately all was fine inside. Transmissions are very expensive so you don't want to go there. If you do open the transmission do so very carefully. There are alignment marks on case. If the plastic gear is bad I think you have to buy the whole transmission. I would be very certain it doesn't move before tearing into it. If you think the cable is bad you can pull the inner core out to make sure it is intact. Good Luck.
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Old 07-21-2013, 10:21 PM   #35
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To provide closure, I got this all sorted!

After installing the new (used) driver's side transmission, the drill "trick" and even hooking it up to the motor never turned the v-lever... I was exhausted, but knew it was most likely the cable not being "seated" in the metal roller on the transmission side (I figured this as I disassembled the removed one to see what the internals looked like).

So back apart it came... reseated the cable, and glued it in as well. Also glued the cable itself to the 3 clips on the transmission body to keep it from pulling out also.

After re-install, the drill trick started to work! got it close to the other side and then used the motor/switch method. Used the door "gap" and a tape measure to get both sides even. Worked like a charm. Top opens and closes perfectly now (even more flush than before the failure!!)

So... the reason for the failure was the white plastic gear inside the transmission housing. For kicks, I checked the "new" one (from an '03) and it also had hairline cracks in the plastic gear. So only a matter of time I suppose.

Appreciate all the support!
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Old 04-13-2014, 05:16 PM   #36
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Hello all.. I am having a similar problem. My top is stuck up. All indications seem normal. Parking brake light, windows drop when center latch is released. But no motor sound at all.
I have a '99 Boxster. At first the problem was intermittent. Now, no workie at all.
I know electronics. I want to troubleshoot as much as possible from the top control relay/module.
So... Question for Maurice...
Do you have a document that shows the pin-outs for the relay? And what indications(ground, battery, etc.) would be seen at each pin (and at what state the top is in)?
I do have a wiring diagram that shows the relay and what is connected to it. But, it is not really clear as to what should be read from a multimeter on those pins.
Again, I can probably figure it all out... But, if you have already done this, it would be very helpful....

Thanks,
Phil
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Old 04-20-2014, 08:08 PM   #37
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No response from top motor - 986 Boxster Top Issues and Solutions - RennTech.org Forums
This thread has exactly the fix I needed...
And this doc from Maurice...
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File Type: pdf Boxster Conv Top Microswitch Troubleshooting.pdf (79.1 KB, 872 views)

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