Should I be nervous buying 2001 Base with just 31K miles?

[southernstar]

No real styling changes until 2003 and apart from the padded top and arguably the new steering wheel, many consider the other detail changes in MY 2001 to be negative rather than positive. The most significant upgrades over MY 1997 - 1999: the engine (2.7 versus 2.5), gear ratios, fly by wire throttle and brushed aluminum interior trim all came in the 2000 model year.

What is not a matter of opinion, however, is that the mid 2000 MY change to a single row IMS bearing was a disaster (as even Porsche is about to acknowledge if the settlement goes through). Indeed, the dramatically higher failure rate of the single-row bearings as opposed to the earlier double row bearings was the principle evidence in favour of the plaintiffs.

Not saying that the 2001's aren't great cars. Lets face it, the IMS failure rate is only 8-10% so it is highly likely that you will not suffer a failure. Of course, if you do, the value of the car will drop to about 2-3 K as a roller! Yes, you can replace the single row factory bearing with a single row ceramic bearing (or one with a stronger center cap bolt from Pelican), but you are still stuck with a single row bearing.

If you have a double-row bearing, you can essentially ignore the worry (significantly less than 1% failure rate), especially if you change the oil at shorter intervals and install a magnetic drain plug. If and when you need a new clutch, as the labour costs are very little more, you can then choose to replace the IMS bearing. A word of caution here: the allegedly upgraded Pelican bearing for the earlier double-rows is actually a downgrade to a single row with a spacer!

Brad

[Dave S.]

I bought a 2003 in 2008 with 14k miles on it. Now it has about 25k miles and has had zero issues so far. Someday, I'll replace the IMS when the clutch needs to be replaced, but until then I'm going to drive it on nice days and enjoy it.
If I have an IMSB failure, I'll look to upgrade to a 3.6 liter and make the car a real screamer to drive.
I looked for my car for about 1 year before buying one. I had a specific list of options that were important to me and I wanted only a 2003 or 2004 S. Mostly because of the glass rear window in the top. When the right car came along I negotiated a great price and bought it.
Don't be in a hurry there are a lot of them out there.

[jnicholson30]

So all this Boxster S talk has now made me widen my search a bit here. Here's what I've found in my range, including one S, though with higher miles...

Option 1: 2000 Boxster S with 62K mi "that idles a bit high sometimes when it is trying to cool down but other than that is in perfect condition" - I can pick up for $13.5 plus $350 inspection at dealer and 3 hour drive = $14K

Option 2: 2000 Boxster Base with 40K mi and upgraded factory rims (nice). Also in top condition. Can pick up for estimated $13K plus PPI and shipping = $14K

Option 3: 2001 Boxster Base with 31K mi. Can pick up for estimated $14K plus PPI and shipping = $15K

Any violent opinions either way? ***I should mention that reliability (or at least the greatest chance of it!) is important to me... do the mechanicals in the S make it any more reliable even with the higher miles? Or is it better to get it with lower miles? Any thoughts would be appreciated.

And thanks again everyone for all the great feedback already!

[Dave S.]

Originally Posted by jnicholson30

So all this Boxster S talk has now made me widen my search a bit here. Here's what I've found in my range, including one S, though with higher miles...

Option 1: 2000 Boxster S with 62K mi "that idles a bit high sometimes when it is trying to cool down but other than that is in perfect condition" - I can pick up for $13.5 plus $350 inspection at dealer and 3 hour drive = $14K

Option 2: 2000 Boxster Base with 40K mi and upgraded factory rims (nice). Also in top condition. Can pick up for estimated $13K plus PPI and shipping = $14K

Option 3: 2001 Boxster Base with 31K mi. Can pick up for estimated $14K plus PPI and shipping = $15K

Any violent opinions either way? ***I should mention that reliability (or at least the greatest chance of it!) is important to me... do the mechanicals in the S make it any more reliable even with the higher miles? Or is it better to get it with lower miles? Any thoughts would be appreciated.

And thanks again everyone for all the great feedback already!

You really have to drive the ones you are most interested in and take in the entire experience. I drove a couple of cars that had serious issues that were apparent when driving them.

[southernstar]

I agree totally with Dave S - you have to drive them and, unless you are purchasing from a Porsche dealer (where they should provide one), get a PPI on any Porsche that is out of the factory warranty period. As to the 2000 S - they are no more or less reliable than the base version, if maintained and driven equally.

Take note that the 60,000 mile point is one where a major service is required (and which should have been done prior to purchase - e.g., changing serpentine belt, brake fluid, coolant etc.); furthermore, it is a point at which numerous owners have experienced the need to replace various components including the clutch, air/oil separator, water pump, coolant reservoir, MAF sensor. My own car is approaching that mileage (57,000 miles) and I am debating replacing the air/oil separator and water pump, even though there are no signs of problems with either to this point.

Brad