How many have NOT changed IMS bearing on their 1997-2000 Boxster?

[sailing1]

OK, I also would like to know why type of transmission would make any difference to the IMS failure rate. Is it because some feel that those with a Tip will drive it lower in the RPM range?

[Mark_T]

That's the thinking, yes

[Perfectlap]

Tip is less prone to the RMS seal tearing. maybe that's what the one poster was thinking about.

[SF-Rockster]

97' bought two years ago
37k miles then 55k now driven the way the doctor ordered

[Bengalfan]

2000 2.7 with 57k on it, original IMS. I added the IMS Guardian a year ago just for peace of mind.

[rondocap]

So just so I understand correctly, my base 2001 can have either the single or double bearing right? No way to really know? My car was first sold around July of 2001.

[Boxtaboy]

2001 2.7 5-speed. 69k miles. Still with original IMS. Running great.

[Jerkstore]

107k 2000 Tip 3.2 original ims

[darknight]

I have a 2003 3.2S, 39k, 6-speed, that I replaced the bearing with the LN IMS bearing last weekend. I know that the original poster did not ask about the later boxsters, such as my 2003, but I wanted to point out that life is about calculated risk.

I knew about the IMS issue before I bought my first P-car, I understood that it could happen and I bought my box knowing this. After two years of ownership, my box would on occasion make a slight clunk as I pulled the clutch out, while in second gear. I decided to address the gearbox issue by installing the CMS shift arrestor. As long as the gearbox was out, I installed a new RMS (which had a slight leak), resurfaced the flywheel, installed a new clutch, and replaced the IMS bearing.

The bearing that I removed appears fine, the clutch still had some life left; however, I would rather spend my time enjoying my box than worrying about it. It drives great, brings a smile to my lucky face, and reminds me why I drive a Porsche.

[Mr. Mike]

My 2000S just turned 41K. It had 21K on when I bought it. A great car, nothing but tires and maintenance so far.

MEB

[Troutman]

1999 2.7 1 previous lover, FPSH and 63K

I just keep it in the garage locked up until the weather is good and then I go for a blast.
The IMS bearing is not an issue to me. I drive it sometimes hard, sometimes softly.
I think the base Boxster with minimal gadgets is one of most amazing cars to own and drive.
I am 42, fairly well off and see no need for a different sports car, for the money there is nothing close.
If I ever have to do a clutch or RMS I will have the IMS bearing changed, no doubt but not until then.
I could pick up a low mileage 2.7 engine from a crashed car for approx £3k so it's not too bad if the engine blows to bits, not that it will, but to be honest if it did I would quite like to rebuild the engine over the winter as a project..

[Timco]

Originally Posted by darknight

I have a 2003 3.2S, 39k, 6-speed, that I replaced the bearing with the LN IMS bearing last weekend. I know that the original poster did not ask about the later boxsters, such as my 2003, but I wanted to point out that life is about calculated risk.

I knew about the IMS issue before I bought my first P-car, I understood that it could happen and I bought my box knowing this. After two years of ownership, my box would on occasion make a slight clunk as I pulled the clutch out, while in second gear. I decided to address the gearbox issue by installing the CMS shift arrestor. As long as the gearbox was out, I installed a new RMS (which had a slight leak), resurfaced the flywheel, installed a new clutch, and replaced the IMS bearing.

The bearing that I removed appears fine, the clutch still had some life left; however, I would rather spend my time enjoying my box than worrying about it. It drives great, brings a smile to my lucky face, and reminds me why I drive a Porsche.

Last pic is the empty gear box? How difficult to remove the gears down to the way shown? My shift lever leaks and I need to get down that far.

[darknight]

Originally Posted by Timco

Last pic is the empty gear box? How difficult to remove the gears down to the way shown? My shift lever leaks and I need to get down that far.

Getting the gearbox apart was not the challenge. Remove the bolts cap/spring/bolt of the shift catch and gingerly tap upwards on the case using one a dead-blow plastic hammer. I sprayed a penetrating spray at the location of the two dowels, I let it sit a while, and then taped upwards VERY carefully on the top half of the case (with the bell housing on the ground).

The trick was getting it back together. The shift fork shaft assemblies have some play in them and you need to have each lined up with the respective cage bearings on the case end.

I strongly recommend installing the CMS shift arrestor as long as you are in there. It made a night-and-day difference in how my box goes between gears. I no longer wonder if second gear will clunk when the clutch is released; I can now feel that it is in gear before releasing the clutch. It is good insurance, shouldn't take more than five or 10 minutes to change at this point, even if you don't have any apparent shifting problems.

After a few hours of teeth grinding (five to be exact), I found that the only way to get the case together correctly was by propping-up the bell housing on top of a chunk of 4x4 lumber (the side where the shift detent faces upwards). The weight of the gear racks will want to make the bell housing teeter and tip onto the floor and you will need two people; one to hold the bell housing against the 4x4 and another to guide the housing over the gears and shift fork shafts.

Another crucial trick was to take a gasket hook tool and grab the third (from right to left) shift fork shaft and pull it, using slight pressure, towards you. This shift fork shaft will pull the respective shafts on either side in alignment with the corresponding cage bearings on the case end. Just make sure that this shift fork position has not changed (it will line-up with a notch on each of the neighboring shift fork shafts).



Additionally, the round roller that rides on the shift catch needs to be stuck on using a bit of grease and you will need to be mindful that it takes a bit of wiggling/playing with the external shift linkage lever to get the roller to its place on the shift fork shaft. This cannot be lined up until the separation between the two halves is only an inch or two.

Finally, keep in mind that the main gear on the end of the case needs to mesh with the respective gear on the end of the gear assembly. My brother in-law guided the case end onto the rest of the gear box while I pulled on the shift fork shafts while spinning the input shaft, in order to get the two gears on the case end to mesh.

It was a bit of a dance and I could probably do it in a fraction of the five hours it took the first time around. I don't want to discourage you but please don't hold me responsible if you attempt this and do not get the same results as I had. As a check before bolting the whole thing together, the external shift lever should "shift" without binding as you manually change the gears. If you are not familiar with what this feels like, check it out before disassembling the box.

It was a calculated risk and I knew I was either going to pay royally for someone else's education or else I was going to figure it out on my own and pay for my own education.

Best wishes and happy motoring.

[Fnred98]

Thks for asking the question. I have a 98 with 35000 miles original clutch and IMS. Using a magnetic drain plug, change oil around 3000 miles and inspect oil filter for derbies. So far I have had no problems and still enjoy the car !

[RandallNeighbour]

97 box 2.5, 112,000 miles. New motor installed at 75k by PO. No imsb swap on the current motor.

I keep hoping the motor will implode so I can put an LS1 in it, but it keeps on purring like a kitten.

[Timco]

Originally Posted by darknight

Getting the gearbox apart was not the challenge. Remove the bolts cap/spring/bolt of the shift catch and gingerly tap upwards on the case using one a dead-blow plastic hammer. I sprayed a penetrating spray at the location of the two dowels, I let it sit a while, and then taped upwards VERY carefully on the top half of the case (with the bell housing on the ground).

The trick was getting it back together. The shift fork shaft assemblies have some play in them and you need to have each lined up with the respective cage bearings on the case end.

I strongly recommend installing the CMS shift arrestor as long as you are in there. It made a night-and-day difference in how my box goes between gears. I no longer wonder if second gear will clunk when the clutch is released; I can now feel that it is in gear before releasing the clutch. It is good insurance, shouldn't take more than five or 10 minutes to change at this point, even if you don't have any apparent shifting problems.

After a few hours of teeth grinding (five to be exact), I found that the only way to get the case together correctly was by propping-up the bell housing on top of a chunk of 4x4 lumber (the side where the shift detent faces upwards). The weight of the gear racks will want to make the bell housing teeter and tip onto the floor and you will need two people; one to hold the bell housing against the 4x4 and another to guide the housing over the gears and shift fork shafts.

Another crucial trick was to take a gasket hook tool and grab the third (from right to left) shift fork shaft and pull it, using slight pressure, towards you. This shift fork shaft will pull the respective shafts on either side in alignment with the corresponding cage bearings on the case end. Just make sure that this shift fork position has not changed (it will line-up with a notch on each of the neighboring shift fork shafts).



Additionally, the round roller that rides on the shift catch needs to be stuck on using a bit of grease and you will need to be mindful that it takes a bit of wiggling/playing with the external shift linkage lever to get the roller to its place on the shift fork shaft. This cannot be lined up until the separation between the two halves is only an inch or two.

Finally, keep in mind that the main gear on the end of the case needs to mesh with the respective gear on the end of the gear assembly. My brother in-law guided the case end onto the rest of the gear box while I pulled on the shift fork shafts while spinning the input shaft, in order to get the two gears on the case end to mesh.

It was a bit of a dance and I could probably do it in a fraction of the five hours it took the first time around. I don't want to discourage you but please don't hold me responsible if you attempt this and do not get the same results as I had. As a check before bolting the whole thing together, the external shift lever should "shift" without binding as you manually change the gears. If you are not familiar with what this feels like, check it out before disassembling the box.

It was a calculated risk and I knew I was either going to pay royally for someone else's education or else I was going to figure it out on my own and pay for my own education.

Best wishes and happy motoring.

No way, thanks. I'll leave it with a tranny shop for the shift lever leak. Porsche wants $750 for a new housing and my trans guy said he could press in a new bearing and seal for way less.

[Meat Head]

I think this has been a very positive thread! Now that Porsche has released the low rate of failure (much less than 1%), I think Boxster owners of the 2000 and older double row bearing motors have very little to worry about:dance:. I have a feeling that many motors from numerous manufactures have close to a 1% failure rate if not higher. I'm not going to give my IMS bearing a second thought until time for a new clutch .

[southernstar]

Meat Head, just as a precaution I would still get a magnetic drain plug, do frequent oil changes and cut open and inspect the filter for metallic particles with each change. Still, we should take comfort from the fact that less than 1% reported dual-row bearing failures to Porsche, as opposed to 8-10% for the single row. This is a HUGE difference and when one considers that the dual-row bearing cars are now at least 13 years old and are likely on average to have higher mileage than the newer single-bearing cars (and that we have no way of knowing what were the oil change frequencies and driving habits of the ones that did fail), well yes, we should be able to rest much easier.

Brad

[McDuff]

Sorry if you responded to my post earlier, but does anyone know if the IMS bearing is also an issue with automatics, or just standard transmissions?

[McDuff]

Thanks for responding, do you know why the IMS is more of an issue for a tip by chance?