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Old 03-21-2013, 06:19 PM   #1
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Striped the brake caliper bolt. BAD

So I fudged up with my caliper bolt. Striped it and tried to repare and now whats left is a hollowed out bolt which is still stuck. I have to get a new/used front left wheel carrier because the remains of the bolt cant be removed. SOOOOOO angry right now.

Now I have to search some junk yards in search for a cheap replacement.

Also ordered new bolts for the rest of them.

Just wanted to share the bad experience and say be very carful when removing those bolts and always replace them.

No pics dont feel like photographing my mistake. Maybe later.
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Old 03-21-2013, 06:35 PM   #2
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I feel for you. I once tried to fix a broken exhaust manifold stud on my Jeep and ended up screwing it up so bad I had to buy a new head. Good luck.
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Old 03-21-2013, 07:00 PM   #3
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Sorry to hear this - but if you feel any better, I am the king of rounded off bolts and nuts!

You can't drill into the remaining bolt in the wheel carrier and use an easy-out to remove it? It should come out pretty easily.
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Old 03-21-2013, 07:22 PM   #4
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I snapped (over torqued) a bolt on the front strut bearing a few weeks ago.
$100 please, said the Porsche parts counter guy.
Every attempt at saving money has unforeseen costs.
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Old 03-21-2013, 09:10 PM   #5
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Just to clarify i did you the easy out and failed. The bolt was soo tight that the inside of the bolt gave in before it gave a budge. It moved a bit before I striped the bolt head and then I used a plumbers pipe wrench and budged it a bit more. But guess what the pipe wrench's teeth ened up braking. So the bolt was still in there. I cut the head off of the bolt, cut the bolt shorter, and proceed to dril. Broke a few bits and bought a titanium set, burned two of the bit tips and damaged two of my easy out bits. Then I tried drilling the bolt out completely but ended up with about a 7mm hole in the apparent middle of what is left of the bolt. With that said i am sure i cant do any more. As a last resort I bought a blow torch and used it a bit to see if it did something. Well it did not, so I was very frustrated. Been at it for two nights and called it quites on the third decided to get the replacement. Also recruited some friends to help out and still nothing.

I am looking at possibly paying $75-150 for a used carrier. Add to that the tools I bought to attempt and fix the problem, which was around $45 and I feel like money was wasted. Not to mention if I bought it new it would be around $860 so that is way out of the question.

All I wanted was to change my rotors not to deal with all this. I don't even want to think about how hard changing my suspension is going to be in the very near future.

Last edited by Bmod986; 03-21-2013 at 09:12 PM.
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Old 03-22-2013, 02:43 AM   #6
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This is why I had a shop do the job the first time...this way I figure when I do some work to it it will have had the factory bolts removed and now is accessible. Sorry to hear!
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Old 04-09-2013, 11:43 PM   #7
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Ok I still have not finished with this job which started off as just a simple brake change.

So far I have bought 8 new bolts, a salvaged wheel carrier and now two new lower control arms. So ya the list keeps growing.

I finally took pictures so here take a look.







My bushings were shot and i bought remanufactured lower control arms from **************************** for $43 dollars each. Some one else on the forum had bought a set so I will let you know how they do.

See here is the drop link bolt and I cant take it out hammered it and all so I let it be for now. I was able to remove the droplink part connected to the sway bar so thats good.

Last edited by Bmod986; 04-09-2013 at 11:46 PM.
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Old 04-09-2013, 11:44 PM   #8
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Here are pics of old rotors and new rotors.







Here is the salvaged wheel carrier.



And pics of my suspension.

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Old 04-10-2013, 02:13 AM   #9
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That hole is ugly!

I swear, I have no idea how the guys in my field do it up north with all the rust. I wouldn't do my job if I lived North of DC on the east coast.

As far as removing the link joint with out the aid of heat, is simply an issue of PB Blaster and hammer utilization. I really feel for you.

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Old 04-10-2013, 01:38 PM   #10
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I have more bad news. First off the passenger side of my car is done, which is good but now i have to go back because my driver rear ebrake is broken. The spring wont compress so the shoe is halfway extended. I have to order a new ebrake kit and do both sides while I am at it. To add to the sadness my axle boot was torn clean so I have to replace that too.

Why are there so many things going wrong. And at the beginning of spring. the days are so nice and I cant enjoy them.

Last edited by Bmod986; 04-10-2013 at 01:41 PM.
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Old 04-10-2013, 03:21 PM   #11
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Tis is wy I', trying to convince my wife that I need 2 P-Cars. So when I need to wrench on one I can just drive te other one. Hasn't worked so far.
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Old 04-10-2013, 07:25 PM   #12
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Same thing happened to me. Driver side was smoothe and I snapped a bolt on the passenger side. Infuriating! Drilled it out and used helicoil. No brake jobs on the p-car since haha
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