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Old 04-16-2012, 12:17 PM   #1
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Unhappy Brake squeal won't go away.

I started having brake squeal around 1 year ago. It just started up randomly, slowly getting worse.

In the past year, I have changed my pads AND rotors TWICE. I changed the pads both times and the rotors once to get rid of the squeal, the other time I changed the rotors was because of warping. Everything squeaked.

The first set of pads and rotors were from Pelican, the second set was straight from the dealership.

It only occurs in the front wheels, both of them, 90% of the time I brake. It's very annoying.

I've never tracked the car and I'm not very hard on the brakes.

In addition to changing the pads and rotors, I tried anti-squeal sheets on the pads. They got rid of the squeal for 2 day and then back to normal.

Hosing down the brake with a hose sometimes works for a day or two, then the noise is back.



What can I do?

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Old 04-16-2012, 12:27 PM   #2
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I have the same problem. I'm curious what people will have to say about this.

Looks like you did a lot more than I did. I only changed my front pads with EBC yellow stuff.
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Old 04-16-2012, 12:40 PM   #3
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I've had brake squeal on other cars and have it on this. Never found a solution that works. Removing brake dust usually helped for a short period of time, but never permanently. Curious to hear as well if anyone found a permanent fix.
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Old 04-16-2012, 01:44 PM   #4
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Permanent fix as requested

PORSCHE WELTMEISTER ANTI-SQUEAL BRAKE PAD LINERS, SET OF 8 - RP910822
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Old 04-16-2012, 01:52 PM   #5
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Squeal is typically caused by pad material or shims.

If you're using OEM pads/rotors/shims, only times I've ever had or heard of others having squeal issues is when the brakes aren't getting enough exercise (to cycle and heat them up) and they develop a glaze. Or improperly bedding them. Try going for a spirited drive and really hitting them hard to heat up.

If using aftermkt pads or rotors... could be any or combination there of and there have been many issues w/ different composites causing issues (and of course many trouble free too). To OP, how did you get warp w/ new pads/rotors as they are really beefy other than a really bad component. Wonder if you might have a caliper issue going on too?

Good luck
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Old 04-16-2012, 02:23 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ghostrider 310 View Post
I've tried them with no luck. They're actually on the car right now.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Burg Boxster View Post
Squeal is typically caused by pad material or shims.

If you're using OEM pads/rotors/shims, only times I've ever had or heard of others having squeal issues is when the brakes aren't getting enough exercise (to cycle and heat them up) and they develop a glaze. Or improperly bedding them. Try going for a spirited drive and really hitting them hard to heat up.

If using aftermkt pads or rotors... could be any or combination there of and there have been many issues w/ different composites causing issues (and of course many trouble free too). To OP, how did you get warp w/ new pads/rotors as they are really beefy other than a really bad component. Wonder if you might have a caliper issue going on too?

Good luck
It has nothing to do with bedding them or warming them up. Current set is OEM from the dealer.

I have no idea how the 'warp' happened, but it was incredibly annoying also.




My next attempt at a solution will be to grind the leading and trailing edges of the pads down, I've heard that this can be a solution.
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Old 04-16-2012, 04:06 PM   #7
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I used to have the same issue with my brakes, but not since I've changed to the new ceramic brake pads. I'm not sure what's the brand, but I'm sure a quick online search will help.
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Old 04-16-2012, 09:40 PM   #8
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Sorry but by now with the amount of times you done it you could have paid someone to do it right.
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Old 04-17-2012, 06:16 AM   #9
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I have a buddy who owns an auto service centre and, as I'm about to do a brake job myself, I asked him about any tips and tricks I should know. He says they chamfer the leading edge on every set of pads they install on every car. He says that if you don't do that then they tend to squeal.
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Old 04-17-2012, 11:01 AM   #10
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I have a buddy who owns an auto service centre and, as I'm about to do a brake job myself, I asked him about any tips and tricks I should know. He says they chamfer the leading edge on every set of pads they install on every car. He says that if you don't do that then they tend to squeal.
Excellent. Do you know what the best way to do that it?
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Old 04-17-2012, 11:32 AM   #11
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Belt sander would be my first choice, and a grinder would be my second. You don't need to remove a lot of material - just break the leading edge at about 45 degrees.
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Old 04-18-2012, 03:34 PM   #12
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I have a 2000S and I replaced the rotors and pads, but after a couple of months I had a squeal from one wheel. So I ordered the anti-squeal from Pelican and gave the anti- squeal sims a good blast on both sides. Allowed it to set a couple of hours and I no longer have a squeal.

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Old 04-18-2012, 04:11 PM   #13
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I hope you all know that taking a high pressure nozzle sprayer on the front of your hose and thoroughly blasting your rotors and pads when you wash the car will stop a LOT of the squealing.

Dust buildup is the cause much of the time. Hard braking will remove it, braking after gunning it in reverse will help a little too, but a water blast doesn't wear down your pads.

Give it a try.
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Old 04-18-2012, 04:43 PM   #14
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Originally Posted by jcb986 View Post
I have a 2000S and I replaced the rotors and pads, but after a couple of months I had a squeal from one wheel. So I ordered the anti-squeal from Pelican and gave the anti- squeal sims a good blast on both sides. Allowed it to set a couple of hours and I no longer have a squeal.

Pelican Parts - Product Information: WRTH-890106
I'll try this when I grind the pads.

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Originally Posted by RandallNeighbour View Post
I hope you all know that taking a high pressure nozzle sprayer on the front of your hose and thoroughly blasting your rotors and pads when you wash the car will stop a LOT of the squealing.

Dust buildup is the cause much of the time. Hard braking will remove it, braking after gunning it in reverse will help a little too, but a water blast doesn't wear down your pads.

Give it a try.
I do this once a week. It helps for a day or two, but then the noise comes back. I want a near permanent solution.
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Old 04-18-2012, 04:53 PM   #15
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Highlow, don't you wash your car every other day like the rest of us?

Sheesh! You're not a very conscientious Porsche owner!
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Old 09-20-2017, 10:46 PM   #16
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Hey folks, on my 2001 Boxster base 2.7 with good condition, used OE brake pads (brembo and textar, if I recall correctly), I've also been trying to get rid of some brake squeaking that only occurs under certain conditions (temperature and pedal pressure).

Recently, I tried removing the front pads, cleaning and greasing all the contact points, and adding some "Permatex Disc Brake Quiet" (goop) on the back of the pads which was designed to stop pad squeaking. I made sure I had the factory heat shields/shims installed behind the pads, also. It worked for about 10 minutes when I had wonderful completely quiet braking, but then the squeaking had returned!

Since I noticed there is a small worn ridge near the outer diameter of the rotors, I figured maybe turning them is something I might try next, so I was talking to a fellow at a car parts store about doing this. He suggested so try chamfering the pads, so I got reading about it, and it seems it just might work.
https://ebcbrakes.com/articles/squeaky-brakes/

Found this thread. Anyone have same issue and fix, or try pad chamfering on their Porsche/brembo/textar pads to fix brake squeaking?

By the way, I seem to have some drilled brake rotors. Although I like the way they look, I don't believe they're stock spec on this 2.7/base brake setup. Pads are also not new, but pad thickness is good. Happy with brake performance aside from the squeaking.
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Last edited by jakeru; 09-20-2017 at 11:03 PM.
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Old 09-21-2017, 03:23 AM   #17
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I wouldn't worry about the ridge on the rotor, my car has the same thing with EBC red pads and no squeal. I didn't even replace the OEM anti-squeal pad.
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Old 09-21-2017, 04:29 AM   #18
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If you are not tracking your car, EBC Redstuff ceramic pads give very low dust and did not squeal for me. Yellowstuff pads are more track oriented and have been known to squeal although I use them and they aren't making any noise, but I do really heat them up at the track! YMMV
Don't use Redstuff at the track though.
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Old 09-21-2017, 06:40 AM   #19
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I went to Pagids once and even with anti-squeal pads, they squealed. Went back to OEM pads and rotors and no more squeal.
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Old 09-22-2017, 02:10 AM   #20
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Sounds like you are very mechanically inclined as you have changed the brakes twice and tried all the old mechanic remedies to fix the squeal but let's just go back and look at what causes brake squeal and see if we can find anything else.
Brake squeal is caused by vibration. The vibration plays out just like an on LP record player and can change the pitch depending on what is causing it and how it is being transferred. All brake squeal reducing/eliminating products that you have tried basically try to dampen the pad (in my record player analogy it would be like putting an isolator on the needle so it no longer feels the bumps on the record and produces no more sound) What this brings me back to is that you still have a vibration. The vibration is the rotor surface being uneven, glazed, warped or otherwise affected. You must find the source of the rotor problem. Dial indicators are dirt cheap on ebay. You need to do a serious rotor runout test and see what is actually going on. I am making these assumptions based on the number of pads you have tried so I am eliminating that the pad material is causing this problem. You may have some buildup on your hubs where the rotor sits that you have not cleaned properly and the rotor may be moving out of round just so slightly because it is not sitting on the hub perfectly even or there is some damage to the hub itself. A dial indicator with a magnetic or clip on arm will allow you to test the hub and the rotor (of course index the rotor and hub and tighten it to the hub before you do the rotor runout).
I am suggesting this because you have already replaced everything twice or more. There are not many more things to check. It is unlikely that you got 2 sets of warped rotors so the only things besides runout on the hub that could be causing this would be things like overtightening your wheels (which will cause slight rotor warpage at times) improper bedding in of the pads etc... I say check the runout on the hubs and then check the runout on the rotors while installed on the hub and go from there.

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