DSP - Digital Sound Processing unit removal - 986 Forum - The Community for Porsche Boxster & Cayman Owners

jaykay · 11-29-2011, 12:39 PM

I have the original DSP audio unit taking up valuable console space. Can I just remove it with no sound issues? I have the stock Becker head unit. I need to move down into the lowest console position.

Burg Boxster · 11-29-2011, 04:16 PM

You need to keep the panel or remove entire set up as the h/u and amp are dependent on it being there. That said, there is plenty of room in the center console so you could just bury it in there and leave it permanently set to the most (of the choices) desirable sound setting. You might be able to eliminate it completely if you replaced your amp w/ one from a M490 set up (I have a spare 4x40 one if you are interested) and possibly switch a few wires around. See the sound system schematic for details.

Good luck

jaykay · 12-06-2011, 10:30 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Burg Boxster

You need to keep the panel or remove entire set up as the h/u and amp are dependent on it being there. That said, there is plenty of room in the center console so you could just bury it in there and leave it permanently set to the most (of the choices) desirable sound setting. You might be able to eliminate it completely if you replaced your amp w/ one from a M490 set up (I have a spare 4x40 one if you are interested) and possibly switch a few wires around. See the sound system schematic for details.

Good luck

Thanks! I am not familiar with the M490 set up. Was the this the Bose system that replaced the DSP? I would be interested in your amp if it would allow me to remove the DSP. I can't bury it as I will need the space back there. I have the factory speakers in the storage box though. I believe there are four little speakers back there...so that would be 8 speakers to drive.

I don't find the DSP to be very good..

Burg Boxster · 12-06-2011, 12:34 PM

DSP is a small part of your issue... the drivers (ahem, "speakers") used are in a word... garbage (being a family forum and all). The M490 set up is actually the predecessor to the M680 / DSP set up. First things first... do you have a 6ch or 4 ch amp (this determines if your rear parcel shelf speakers are driven off the amp or head unit)? Remove the retaining bolt on it in the frunk and the big label facing firewall will say either 4x40 or 6x40. Regardless, you really ought to consider changing out the speakers (dash & door)...

Take a look at your amp and let me know. We can go from there. Or you can reference these two files on the Boxster Wiki page:

Upgrading the Boxster Sound System - by AndyM - very comprehensive

Template for the Upgraded Door Speaker Baffle - by some guy Burg Boxster

jaykay · 12-06-2011, 04:59 PM

Wow that's comprehensive material! It will take me time to digest. Will the older style amp fall in with a proper upgrade? Yes, agreed the whole system is not the greatest. While my primary objective is free up the low console spot, I am quite happy to take some steps to better sound.

I have never done anything as I was always trying to keep th interior stock looking. I know about many things but I am quite ignorant when it comes car audio. If you can recommend a good set up that would be great.

The car is storage but I will peel it open and have a look. It may be a while before I can get to it. I do have pictures of the option sticker if that has the same information

J

Burg Boxster · 12-06-2011, 05:24 PM

yes drop in but might need to move a few pins/wires around in the harness. They have the same master plugs as I recall and are same dimensions. I'll try and consult my electronics schematic over the weekend (or you can yours if you have a Bentley manual). M490 was an option side by side w/ M680. M490 was first but carried through the MYs too until '03 when all went to MOST/Fiber Optic set ups. You can upgrade all the speakers and still keep it looking stock (I did on mine). The OEM amp is decent, not great, but ok. The speakers truly are absolute junk... of the grade you'd find in an AM alarm clock radio from a Dollar General Store (and yet I've insulting Dollar General w/ that comment - LOL).

jaykay · 12-06-2011, 06:18 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Burg Boxster

yes drop in but might need to move a few pins/wires around in the harness. They have the same master plugs as I recall and are same dimensions. I'll try and consult my electronics schematic over the weekend (or you can yours if you have a Bentley manual). M490 was an option side by side w/ M680. M490 was first but carried through the MYs too until '03 when all went to MOST/Fiber Optic set ups. You can upgrade all the speakers and still keep it looking stock (I did on mine). The OEM amp is decent, not great, but ok. The speakers truly are absolute junk... of the grade you'd find in an AM alarm clock radio from a Dollar General Store (and yet I've insulting Dollar General w/ that comment - LOL).

My frunk sticker picture shows a 680 code but nothing else pops up.

Yep, when I pull my storage box out for the track I look up in there and think those look like something out of a sears clock radio...and the DSP seems like a big waste of time.

If you have a listing of what speakers worked for you in each location that would be great. I may eventually go for a slick double DIN touch screen head unit the M490 amp may have a better chance of being compatible unless??

oohh nice to type on a laptop for a change.....did everyone notice no typos for once

Burg Boxster · 12-13-2011, 02:23 AM

jaykay,

I just checked the Bentley and the M490 and M680 radio/amp wiring is identical except for the add'l lines from amp to DSP actuator panel (for MY'00). So the good news is you should be able to drop in a M490 amp eliminating M680 amp and DSP panel provided there are 3 plugs on your amp (one each for DSP panel, input from h/u, power & output to speakers). Please confirm.

Plus, still need to know if your rear speakers are wired to the amp or head unit - pretty sure it's gonna be amp. To confirm, look at the physically largest plug on amp (or plug w/ largest wires). Are pin locations 5, 6, 15, and 16 empty or filled (should be a 20 pin connector plug)? They will be two pairs in the middle of the plug, a pair in each row. If filled, which I'm pretty sure they are, they should have a white, white w/ brown stripe, black and a black w/ brown stripe colored wires in them. As such, you will need to find a 6 channel M490 amp to drop in (mine is only a 4ch). If they are empty, then the rear speakers are being driven off your head unit and if you have 3 separate plugs mine will work. We can talk off-line to test as such, etc.

For speakers, I recall using Infinity Kappa 4.25" coaxials in the dash and 6.75" in the door (only connecting woofer in doors b/c these amps have a built in cross over). I had the upgraded PNP rear speaker kit not the OEM one. The rears, like in a home theater set up only provide surround so it's not imperative they be of high quality as they just draw the music towards your ears in the seat as opposed to it being pulled forward under the windshield.

Good luck

jaykay · 12-13-2011, 07:39 AM

Thanks for this valuable information. I will have to try and access my car during the holidays.....it's wrapped up!

Quote:

Originally Posted by Burg Boxster

jaykay,

I just checked the Bentley and the M490 and M680 radio/amp wiring is identical except for the add'l lines from amp to DSP actuator panel (for MY'00). So the good news is you should be able to drop in a M490 amp eliminating M680 amp and DSP panel provided there are 3 plugs on your amp (one each for DSP panel, input from h/u, power & output to speakers). Please confirm.

Plus, still need to know if your rear speakers are wired to the amp or head unit - pretty sure it's gonna be amp. To confirm, look at the physically largest plug on amp (or plug w/ largest wires). Are pin locations 5, 6, 15, and 16 empty or filled (should be a 20 pin connector plug)? They will be two pairs in the middle of the plug, a pair in each row. If filled, which I'm pretty sure they are, they should have a white, white w/ brown stripe, black and a black w/ brown stripe colored wires in them. As such, you will need to find a 6 channel M490 amp to drop in (mine is only a 4ch). If they are empty, then the rear speakers are being driven off your head unit and if you have 3 separate plugs mine will work. We can talk off-line to test as such, etc.

For speakers, I recall using Infinity Kappa 4.25" coaxials in the dash and 6.75" in the door (only connecting woofer in doors b/c these amps have a built in cross over). I had the upgraded PNP rear speaker kit not the OEM one. The rears, like in a home theater set up only provide surround so it's not imperative they be of high quality as they just draw the music towards your ears in the seat as opposed to it being pulled forward under the windshield.

Good luck

jaykay · 12-27-2019, 07:05 PM

Yes, just getting back to this now!

I want to get rid of the DSP module and still power my front and rear speakers.

The current amp in there now is an M680 6x40 with a large pink connector and small black one below it. It is on a 2000 MY car.

Just wondering if anyone knows the correct model number for an amp that will accomplish this and fit. I believe that I need an M90 6x40 amp.

Tailwind · 12-28-2019, 06:13 AM

You just need to jumper pins 2 and 6 on the connector. Worked for me. Radio functions as before, and you can still use the tone controls on the HU.
Crappy reception and funky functionality known in the CDR220 have me about to replace it with the Pioneer SPH-10BT.

(sorry for the poor focus)

Cheers

jaykay · 12-28-2019, 06:47 AM

Wow great tip! Really???? So I take it that this is part of the harness that plugs into the DSP? Do your rear speakers work as well; all six?

(Not sure why I am bothered as the exhaust dominates the soundscape most of the time)

So for everyone else:

1. Disassemble lower centre console
2. Remove DSP module
3. Unplug harness from DSP module
4. Jump pins 2 to 6
5. Enjoy lower centre console space along with all six speakers and all audio controls

Yes?

I will try and pick up some suitable jumper pins and try it out. Much better than putting in a whole new amp. Let me know what jumpers you used that fit and don't drop out...

Thanks

J

Tailwind · 12-28-2019, 12:14 PM

That's it. All speakers work
Whenever I lifted my foot off the throttle to apply the brake, I would get caught on the footwell light, plus I have long legs, and wanted some extra legroom.
Looking at the schematic, I figured it out. In my case, I was installing the console delete, so I had taken the DSP and CD Holders out completely, and installed the footwell lights into the side covers.

jaykay · 12-28-2019, 04:58 PM

Nice! I really like the console delete. I am average height but have long legs and it really gets in the way sometimes.

I will give this a quick try this weekend if I can get of some jumpers; don't have any wire on hand

jaykay · 03-18-2020, 03:33 PM

I can confirm that the Tailwind solution does work. It's obviously the best combination of simple and effective.

I did some testing with DSP and without (jumper installed). DSP in and audio deck powered there is a background hiss with no volume. I think this is normal and has been present since I have owned the car. DSP removed and jumper in place the hiss gets louder. It certainly wouldn't be noticeable with the car running.

Is there some resistance needed to placed in the jumper to calm things down?

morgal48 · 03-19-2020, 08:39 AM

The 6X40 Haes amp has an internal low pass filter that chops the signal around 50 Hz. If you're handy, you can open the box and eliminate that. Really handy. The info is, IIRC, on Rennlist. If you're not that handy, remove the Haes amp, buy a 5-channel amp, remove the DSP, and adjust the sound to your liking. Wiring to the amp from the cabin is routed through a bulkhead penetration near the steering column, then behind the battery to the amp and CD changer. The door subs are 5-1/4", making the combined surface area 10% greater than a 10" sub behind a seat. Wire the doors in series and you effectively have 1-ohm speakers. The shelf speakers are designed for filler. A new amp will allow that sound level to be increased.

jaykay · 08-06-2020, 07:13 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by morgal48

The 6X40 Haes amp has an internal low pass filter that chops the signal around 50 Hz. If you're handy, you can open the box and eliminate that. Really handy. The info is, IIRC, on Rennlist. If you're not that handy, remove the Haes amp, buy a 5-channel amp, remove the DSP, and adjust the sound to your liking. Wiring to the amp from the cabin is routed through a bulkhead penetration near the steering column, then behind the battery to the amp and CD changer. The door subs are 5-1/4", making the combined surface area 10% greater than a 10" sub behind a seat. Wire the doors in series and you effectively have 1-ohm speakers. The shelf speakers are designed for filler. A new amp will allow that sound level to be increased.

The hiss is starting to annoy. Does really handy mean impossible? Why five channel when six is needed? I will search up Rennlist. Removing a filter to reduce signal noise seems counterintuitive to me..