Grrrr Need both battery and tires!

[Bob O]

A couple of weeks ago the Box started showing signs of the battery failing...slower turnover on start, and once dead from leaving the radar detector plugged in overnight (stupid me). It's at least 6 years old (was in the car when I got it, so not sure exactly how old it is) so I'm not complaining a whole lot. Sunday night after being at a friend's house for a couple of hours it wouldn't turn over fast enough to start. arggggg. And after a couple of tries it just clicked. Another guy had jumper cables in his truck and we attempted to jump it. No go. It would turn over but not start. It SORT of started and ran for 15-20 seconds but was backfiring, and struggling to keep running. Gave up and called AAA on Mon morning. Went back to the car on Mon morning to meet the tow truck guy and tried to start it again, thinking I may have flooded it on Sun night. More strange things...windows went up and down, spoiler went up and wouldn't come down!! Towed it to the dealer, ( since I was 30 miles from home, just around the corner from the dealer and my independent was 40 miles or so from where I was) but they're trying to "work it in our schedule" and haven't gotten to it yet. geezzzzz. Really??? It's been two and a half days and you haven't gotten to it yet? lol....Must be a lot of broken Porsches in KC. I'm sure it will need a new battery and I'm hoping nothing stepped on the computer when it was in the process of dying!!!

Second issue: I currently have Bridgestone RE760 tires on it which have been great overall. I've had Bridgestones on this car and the 911 for a lot of years, so I have a good opinion about them. They're quiet, excellent in the rain, good dry traction, outstanding wear. They've been to the track several times, where they are just so so, and I've gotten between 15-20K miles on them. BUT...now they're shot. Like I said, I have nothing at all against the Bridgestones', but want to try something different...better? I have heard and read some good things about the Dunlop Direzza Sport Z1. The survey at Tire Rack on them is outstanding, much better than the Bridgestone. So...Ordered the Dunlops yesterday and they shipped today. I got one size up for the fronts...225/45-17. Hopefully that will eliminate a bit of the understeer at the track.

This is going to be an expensive week.

Bob

[ekam]

I'd strongly suggest you to spend the extra money and get an Optima battery. Most batteries don't last more than 5 years (mine lasted 6) but with Optima I've heard of them lasting 10+ years and still going strong. Extra money you spend will turn out to a saving of headaches.

[Bob O]

I've heard a lot of good things about Optima's. But...since it's at the dealer I'm not sure that's possible at this time. The plan was actually to buy and install a new battery myself this week!!! Rats.

[thstone]

In my experience with modern cars, its typical for them to kind of go crazy when the battery is very low or dies. My BMW X5 acted like it was possessed when the battery went out. As you said, hopefully its just the battery and not the alternator or any other electronics that took a hit.

I've heard lots of good things about the Dunlop Direzza Sport Z1's. Seems to be a very good tire for spirited street driving and track use without giving up a lot of treadwear. The only concern that I've heard is that they may ride a bit harder than some other comparable tires but ride quality is always a bit subjective in my opinion.

+1 on going a bit wider on the fronts to 225/45-17. This will slightly reduce some of the inherrent understeer. The next step is to get a performance alignment to get as much negative camber in the fronts as possible. This will make a world of difference on the track. The trade off is more inside tire wear on the street (which can be somewhat mitigated by swapping tires/rims to even out the tire wear) but if you do a few track days (equals more outer tire wear) then the general result will be mostly even wear across the tire.

[fatmike]

Originally Posted by Bob O

It SORT of started and ran for 15-20 seconds but was backfiring, and struggling to keep running.

That doesn't sound like a dead battery to me.

Originally Posted by Bob O

More strange things...windows went up and down, spoiler went up and wouldn't come down!!

I would take a critical look at the ignition switch. Maybe it didn't "dis-engage" the electronics and caused the drained the battery too. A bad ignition switch is a common and inexpensive problem (I've changed mine); the symptoms are strange electical issues.

Originally Posted by Bob O

This is going to be an expensive week.

Bob

....yep...hope you fix it right up and have no other problems. Let us know the result.







/

[Bob O]

[/QUOTE=thstone]+1 on going a bit wider on the fronts to 225/45-17. This will slightly reduce some of the inherrent understeer. The next step is to get a performa nce alignment to get as much negative camber in the fronts as possible. This will make a world of difference on the track. The trade off is more inside tire wear on the street (which can be somewhat mitigated by swapping tires/rims to even out the tire wear) but if you do a few track days (equals more outer tire wear) then the general result will be mostly even wear across the tire.[/QUOTE]

I get a track alignment before going to the track and a street alignment after. Have worked out a pretty good deal with my alignment guy so it's not double the cost!! And in doing so I think I've extended the life of the tires...not running the street alignment on the track and vice versa. I really need to get R's and another set of wheels for track use, but, the garage is overflowing as it is and so is the storage locker.

Could be an ignition switch, but I replaced it a year ago or so when it wouldn't shut off completely and other strange electrical things hapened. It could be bad again, but I'm doubtful. I really think the gremlins are related to low power in the battery. Other than the slow turnover on start there were no other problems or issues, up til it wouldn't start. It started and ran perfectly til then. We'll see what the dealer says when they eventually call!

Bob

[thstone]

Bob O: "I get a track alignment before going to the track and a street alignment after. Have worked out a pretty good deal with my alignment guy so it's not double the cost!! And in doing so I think I've extended the life of the tires...not running the street alignment on the track and vice versa. I really need to get R's and another set of wheels for track use, but, the garage is overflowing as it is and so is the storage locker."

Wow, good job on getting your alignment guy to swap the settings back and forth - definitely a good way to go in terms of tire wear.

And yes, I'd like to get some R's for the track too but just haven't bought a spare set of wheels yet becuase I don't really have a good place to keep them.

Best of luck with the battery!

[Bob O]

Dealer called...finally. Battery kaput! Of course I pretty much knew that. The sputtering and backfiring was.......any guesses??? A cheap 3 minute, or less, fix. $30 DEALER prices!! lol. no peeking.....
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Fuel pump relay....Fuel pump is working fine when connected directly to power, but not so with the relay in the circuit. No other issues according to the tech. Whew!!!!

Oh..and..new oem battery from dealer is about 200 or so. AND he said if I bring in an Optima they would be glad to install it. Pretty good deal. Now I just have to find one in stock somewhere by noon tomorrow AND get it to him to install. Drive home, get some actual work done for a change, get a ride back, drive it home! lol. No problem.

[ekam]

Optima info:
http://sites.google.com/site/mikefocke2/batteries

I'd like to know how they can install it without some sort of adapter plate which you'll need.

[Bob O]

They can't. And I can't find one in stock in kc anyway. So I'm off to Sears for a diehard. Much better than an oem I think. And a lot less expensive too.

Bob