06-28-2011, 05:28 AM
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#1
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Registered User
Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: Ohio
Posts: 2,016
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Engine mount - Suggestions?
Aw, Jeez...Here I've been planning on replacing my front engine mount when I did my water pump (which I now NEED to do), fully intending to use Pedro's Enthusiast's Mount when I did it. It sounded perfect for what I was looking for. Now I learn it's no longer offered.
Suggestions, I need suggestions on motor mounts. I'm not looking for rock hard racing mounts, but something maybe a bit firmer than OEM, with comparable or better longevity. (Like Pedro's Enthusiast's mount!)
What do you guys recommend?
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06-28-2011, 07:06 AM
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#2
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Registered User
Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: Bastrop, TX
Posts: 705
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__________________
2002 S
Pedro rear stabilizer bar, CF strut braces, Maxspeed headers with 100 cell cats, Fabspeed cat bypass pipes, H&R springs with M030 setup, TRG rear links, EVO air intake, B&M Short shift kit, Raby IMS upgrade, Raby underdrive pulley
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06-28-2011, 12:51 PM
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#3
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Certified Boxster Addict
Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: Los Angeles
Posts: 7,669
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Just a note - the performance engine mount (in between stock and solid/racing) that I had installed does transmit more engine vibration than the stock mount. The add'l vibration is not bothersome but I can definitely notice the difference.
__________________
1999 996 C2 - sold - bought back - sold for more
1997 Spec Boxster BSR #254
1979 911 SC
POC Licensed DE/TT Instructor
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06-28-2011, 01:15 PM
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#4
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Registered User
Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: Bastrop, TX
Posts: 705
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Thstone is correct. I had a "enthusiast" mount. Semi- solid put on after my original craped out. The vibrations, for me at least, were unbearable.
I then installed the cayman mount which as the same durometer as OEM 986, but is said to be an upgrade on longevity. Now it feels nice- like from factory.
__________________
2002 S
Pedro rear stabilizer bar, CF strut braces, Maxspeed headers with 100 cell cats, Fabspeed cat bypass pipes, H&R springs with M030 setup, TRG rear links, EVO air intake, B&M Short shift kit, Raby IMS upgrade, Raby underdrive pulley
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06-28-2011, 01:23 PM
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#5
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Registered User
Join Date: Jun 2007
Location: Littleton, CO
Posts: 456
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Thanks, guys. This thread is helpful, as I plan on doing this next month. Is the 987 mount any stiffer than the 986 piece, or is is just more durable. I would like stiffer, and am willing to put up with a little bit of vibration, but not much.
__________________
"Of all the extreme sports I've ever participated in- windsurfing, kite boarding, wake boarding, tow-in surfing and snowboarding- skiing, for me, made everything else easy."
-Chuck Patterson
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06-28-2011, 02:54 PM
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#7
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Porscheectomy
Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: Seattle Area
Posts: 3,011
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987 Boxster and 987 Cayman use the same part. I could tell no difference between the 986 and 987 engine mounts in feel.
Why do you want a harder mount? Are you drag racing the car? You can always make your own mount, it's not hard.
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06-28-2011, 02:57 PM
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#8
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Registered User
Join Date: Jun 2007
Location: Littleton, CO
Posts: 456
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Just for a more firm feel. I track the car a bit, and performance is a bigger priority than comfort.
__________________
"Of all the extreme sports I've ever participated in- windsurfing, kite boarding, wake boarding, tow-in surfing and snowboarding- skiing, for me, made everything else easy."
-Chuck Patterson
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06-28-2011, 03:21 PM
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#9
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Registered User
Join Date: Dec 2006
Location: shoreham, ny
Posts: 1,619
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Be careful. The more solid mounts can trigger the knock sensor.
__________________
996 3.4 engine with 2.7 986 5speed transmission
Ebay Headers, Fabspeed high flow cats, JIC Cross, IPD Plenum, H&R Coilovers, B&M Short Shifter, AEM Uego Gauge Type Analog, Apexi S-AFC Select, 987 air box, Litronics, 2000 Tails and side markers, painted center console, 18" 987 S-Wheels, GT3 Front bumper with splitter.
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06-28-2011, 07:16 PM
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#10
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Registered User
Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: canada
Posts: 445
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I just had mine replaced with OEM 987 from a factory 986 for a 2001 boxster and man alive what a difference!! I think it is a great combination of comfort and rigidity. From what I got from it. I only drove it about 10 blocks due a license discrepancy  .
So far so good tho. I would recommend the OEM.
Also I don't track the car so I can't speak to that. But for street, she's a beaut!
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06-29-2011, 08:19 AM
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#11
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Registered User
Join Date: Nov 2005
Location: Florida
Posts: 529
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JAAY is absolutely ...
Quote:
Originally Posted by JAAY
Be careful. The more solid mounts can trigger the knock sensor.
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... right!
Many people that have made their own or purchased a very rigid mount could end up loosing power,
The knock sensors on the engine are actually vibration sensors.
Sometimes with certain mounts the harmonics created can mimic knocking and the DME retards the timing, cutting back power.
Happy Boxstering,
Pedro
__________________
Racecar spelled backwards is: Racecar!
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06-29-2011, 11:05 AM
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#12
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Registered User
Join Date: Jun 2007
Location: NW Indiana
Posts: 156
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jhandy
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This ******************************************** site is a scam. They stole the item photo and description directly from CHEETAH:
http://www.cheetahonline.com/products/c8036.html
http://www.cheetahonline.com/products/c8037.html
then they didn't reference who actually made them and raised the price. They have not been authorized to do this at all. I have also not sold them any mounts. I will be contacting them. Thanks for bringing it to my attention.
Now to the technical aspects. Both of these mounts were tested long term on my 02 S 6-speed (when it was still a 3.2 with stock transmission mounts). The Delrin definitely is stiffer and adds vibration to the car but serves a purpose. The Polyurethane / Aluminum one is what 99% of people want. I now have that with WEVO solid transmission mounts on my 3.4L swap and I love it. The stock mount is garbage and usually ends up ripping in half (as seen on the product pages).
I periodically scan during races / track days and have yet to see any knock from the mounts (and I have a more aggressive timing from the Softronic tune). Usually, false knock comes from metal contact, such as a something hitting the exhaust, etc. not vibration from the engine itself. They are made to look for certain criteria to activate (look-up vibration analysis).
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06-29-2011, 11:21 AM
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#13
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Registered User
Join Date: Jun 2005
Location: Georgia
Posts: 15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Frodo
What do you guys recommend?
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A couple of months ago I filled mine with 3m window weld. Just cleaned it up with alcohol and filled it in. It is "similar" to what Pedro used to do, but not near as involved nor the same filler. Since I didn't remove any material I don't think it is much stiffer than the the original. It feels firm, but not too firm to me. If you do a search there are quite a few post about doing this on Hondas and such. I have a spare from an earlier replacement that I plan on filling and saving for a backup. For the price, if it lasts a year, it will be worth it to me.
__________________
John
2008 Boxster RS 60 Spyder, stock except for B&M Short Shifter & Full Time PSE Hack.
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06-29-2011, 11:40 AM
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#14
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Porscheectomy
Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: Seattle Area
Posts: 3,011
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BigBadJohn
A couple of months ago I filled mine with 3m window weld. Just cleaned it up with alcohol and filled it in. It is "similar" to what Pedro used to do, but not near as involved nor the same filler. Since I didn't remove any material I don't think it is much stiffer than the the original. It feels firm, but not too firm to me. If you do a search there are quite a few post about doing this on Hondas and such. I have a spare from an earlier replacement that I plan on filling and saving for a backup. For the price, if it lasts a year, it will be worth it to me.
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You used window caulking for your engine mount, you used window caulking on your engine mount.
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06-29-2011, 11:51 AM
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#15
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Registered User
Join Date: Nov 2009
Location: Madison, Georgia
Posts: 1,012
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I have a WEVO with a modded 3.6. It is great for me, at first I thought it was too harsh but it loosened up over time and I got the squeaks fixed, one by one. I love it now.
When a mount say it is for track cars and racing they MEAN IT. In my case I would chew up stock mounts due to increased torque... just rip them into two pieces so I needed a more durable mount. If you drive on the road and run errands and track your car at one DE day per year then get the stock mount.
__________________
2001 Boxster S 3.6L, Zeintop
"Calling upon my years of experience, I froze at the controls." - Stirling Moss
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06-29-2011, 04:31 PM
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#16
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Registered User
Join Date: Dec 2006
Location: shoreham, ny
Posts: 1,619
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Pedro. Learned that from you at Brbs. Waiting to get a cayman mount in. Mine is solid now.
__________________
996 3.4 engine with 2.7 986 5speed transmission
Ebay Headers, Fabspeed high flow cats, JIC Cross, IPD Plenum, H&R Coilovers, B&M Short Shifter, AEM Uego Gauge Type Analog, Apexi S-AFC Select, 987 air box, Litronics, 2000 Tails and side markers, painted center console, 18" 987 S-Wheels, GT3 Front bumper with splitter.
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06-30-2011, 06:29 AM
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#17
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Registered User
Join Date: Jun 2005
Location: Georgia
Posts: 15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by blue2000s
You used window caulking for your engine mount, you used window caulking on your engine mount.
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Not exactly, it is a polyurethane with a shore hardness of 55-60 when fully cured. I beleive this is somewhat softer than Delrin, and should outlast the stock material.
__________________
John
2008 Boxster RS 60 Spyder, stock except for B&M Short Shifter & Full Time PSE Hack.
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