sanding my rotors?

[WhipE350]

Heck, too much science going on here...my rear rotors are 11 years old, threw on new pads did the normal high speed break in and they work great!
On the front I needed new rotors and pads, I put on Mintex pads drove for a 1000 miles, hated the dust and put on Akebono, did the break in again and they work fantastic and no dust at all.
Think I have heard this concern before and maybe I don't know much, but I think you would be fine to put new pads on, heat'em up good and you'll be real happy.
Good luck!

[blue2000s]

The pads are constantly wearing down the rotors, so the thin layer from the old pads will soon wear off. Bedding helps to get the naked rotors coated with the pad material but after that, the rotors are constantly getting "bedded" as they wear thinner. If you just put on your new pads and run through the manufacturer's bedding process, you should be good to go.

[Lil bastard]

Get some #40 sandpaper and a piece of 2X4 as a block and sand them (both sides). This is not rocket science or hard to do at all - Hold the block on the rotor and turn the wheel. With the wheel off to swap the pads anyway, it will only add 10 min. to the job.

Pads bed-in partly by depositing a layer of material on the rotor and the interaction of this layer with the pad creates the most efficient braking.

Different material from different pads are not usually compatible or consistent with the most efficient braking. This is why you want to sand the rotors - to remove the old material, so a good layer of the new material can be laid down.

Cheers!

[ekam]

My Toyota mechanic would do it if he puts in new pads on used discs.

NOT required (as most mechanics simply don't do this) but would definitely help the bedding process.

[jhandy]

thanks for all the info. I ordered new pads and new steel brake lines.

I will sand the rotors, it sounds like it may help, and surely wont hurt.

I got the pressure bleeder from pelican parts.....Any pearls of wisdom on flushing the system?

[paulv]

Originally Posted by jhandy

thanks for all the info. I ordered new pads and new steel brake lines.

I will sand the rotors, it sounds like it may help, and surely wont hurt.

I got the pressure bleeder from pelican parts.....Any pearls of wisdom on flushing the system?

Pelican parts has many tech articles including brake bleeding -- check it out:

http://www.pelicanparts.com//boxster/boxster_tech.htm

Regards,
paul...

[WhipE350]

If you got the Motive Euro Power bleeder you are going to love it...comes in real handy. I even used it to bleed clutch.

[Lil bastard]

Originally Posted by jhandy

I got the pressure bleeder from pelican parts.....Any pearls of wisdom on flushing the system?

Yes... the brake and the clutch master share the same fluid reservoir. because of this, you need to flush/bleed the clutch at the same time, or the old, dirty, moisture ridden fluid in the clutch line, master and slave will contaminate your new brake fluid.

As mentioned, plan on forcing 1-2 qts through the system, or you will have air trapped in it, and have to do it over. Be sure car is level and bleed the calipers in the proper order and sequence (inside/outside)

Also, as mentioned, switch between ATE super blue and gold - they are the same fluid, different colors.

Cheers!

[jhandy]

Mr. Bastard,
I have to bleed the clutch as well? Ok, there is a valve on the top of the tranny, I am guessing that it is the one. It does not look easy to get to....is there any easy way do do this?

thanks