Ignition Switch problems

[fullthrottle52]

I know this is a common problem with Porsche, but I am a new owner of a 2000 Boxster and during my first week of ownership the ignition switch would not allow me to turn the key. It would not even get to the first postion. Of course this happened with the top down and a rain storm coming at me fast. After 15 panic minutes of trying, it finally turned.

I am confused on the replacement. What i read is that all I need to do is replace the electical switch. The dealer say's i need to replace the whole switch mechanism, which looks like a gun, to fix my problem permanently.

Any advise before I pay over $500.00 to a dealer to have this done?

[JFP in PA]

Yes, buy the $10 switch from ********************************e AZ and replace it yourself in about 30 min. Do a search, covered many times..........

[IMG]http://www.********************************************************************************************/images/product_images/images/WORLDPAC/W01331621815MEY.JPG[/IMG]

[deliriousga]

Just do the switch like JFP says. I replaced ours in less than an hour. It's a simple thing to do and it has been working fine for over 5 years now.

The dealer has to replace everything because they use an updated switch that does not work with the original system. If the dealer does it you may never have to replace the switch again, but at $10 a pop it will be pretty hard to reach the cost of the dealer over time.

[Overdrive]

Just something I thought I'd mention, and in no way meant to insult your intelligence, but I just wondered if you tried turning the wheel slightly during your attempts to see if it was just that the steering was locked? I know that I sometimes end up locking the steering if I use the wheel as a brace while stepping out of the vehicle, and if I forget that I did so unintentionally, I'll come back to the car and wonder for a few seconds why I can't turn the key. While your ignition switch probably could use a replacement just because, it'd be a few bucks saved if you find that the issue was something as simple as this.

[thstone]

For clarification, the switch has two fuctions, one is mechanical and one is electrical.

Typically, if you're experiencing weird electrical problems, then all you need to replace is the electrical portion of the switch (as shown in the previous posts). However, if you're having problems physically turning the switch, the entire "gun" assy may need to be replaced.

Ignore the dealer and start with replacing the electrical portion yourself since its easy and cheap. If that doesn't solve the problem then you may to replace the entire switch mechnical assy. You could still do this yourself and save the dealer labor but its a little more complicated than the electrical-only fix.

[calvani]

Hi Folks....I was having problems over the last week with my ignition as well...

Trouble getting the key in and out of the system (getting more difficult each time) and finally the engine would not even start, and all the lights in the display would flicker/light-up etc....

I just exchanged the ignition electrical switch (for 35$) and everything is back in perfect working order. Beware if you are told that the entire ignition (mechanical + electrical assembly) systems needs to be replaced. Given the small expense and level of effort in changing the part, there's absolutely no need to change the entire unit (and there's still potentially plenty of life remaining on the mechanical counterpart of the unit).

I simply followed Pedro's DIY procedure and it worked like a charm (thanks, Pedro!!):

http://www.pedrosgarage.com/Site_3/Replace_Ignition_Switch.html

Cheers,

Humberto-

997-Boxster, Gemballa Competition Corsa Wheels, Gemballa air intake scoops, Mulsanne bumper

[SoCalKen]

Originally Posted by thstone

For clarification, the switch has two fuctions, one is mechanical and one is electrical.

Typically, if you're experiencing weird electrical problems, then all you need to replace is the electrical portion of the switch (as shown in the previous posts). However, if you're having problems physically turning the switch, the entire "gun" assy may need to be replaced.

Ignore the dealer and start with replacing the electrical portion yourself since its easy and cheap. If that doesn't solve the problem then you may to replace the entire switch mechnical assy. You could still do this yourself and save the dealer labor but its a little more complicated than the electrical-only fix.

If you are having trouble turning the switch it also could be only the little electrical portion also. sounds wierd but so. When my ignition switch went bad the turning of the switch was a problem and it didn't make sense that the part I was replacing could be the problem but it was.
Ken

[xcbxer]

I posted this topic yesterday. It's buried in renntech 996 forums - DIY articles - carrera (996) - common fixes and repairs - thread Upgraded Ignition Switch/Lock Installation for 996/Boxster.

This particular DIY is detailed with many pics showing how to replace the steering lock. Anywway, here's my story of how I diagnosed and did a zero cost fix: ---

My recently acquired 97 boxster (40K miles) came with an ignition switch which was consistently notchy going from 0 to 1. A few times it would not budge. Jiggling the steering wheel and key became tiresome. Never saw any electronic misbehaviour.

First, I went under the dash and pulled the electric switch. Part number was 4A0 905 849 B and obviously had been replaced in the past.

With the electric switch disconnected the key still resisted going from 0 to 1, but only after the key was pulled out. If the key stayed in the tumbler there was no notchiness. I concluded that the steering lock disengagement was the culprit.

Next day I pulled the left side vent and instrument cluster to remove the steering lock. The instrument cluster took 10 minutes and fully exposed the work area - (hats off to those who succeeded thru the vent hole alone). Once the lock assembly was on the bench, why not take it apart before ordering a new one.

There is a square plate crimped in by the aluminum casting. It can be carefully pryed out to expose the steering lock disengagement cam.

With the tumbler and electric switch removed, using a screw driver to simulate the key and with one thumb standing in for the spring, I easily duplicated the original notchiness. Maybe it's no surprise with this mechanism's many rotational and longtudinal friction points, endless mechanical gyrations and tight tolerances.

I intended to remove the circlip from the tumbler end and strip out the locking plunger, thus leaving the car without steering lock. With encoded keys who needs the steering lock function?

However, laying down some molybdenum EP grease on the cam totally eliminated the notchiness. I then sprayed in some McLube (or use Jigaloo) and closed up the gizmo.

For now problem solved - cost zero. If it acts up again somewhere down the road, I'll pull the plunger.

[jones904]

Originally Posted by xcbxer

I posted this topic yesterday. It's buried in renntech 996 forums - DIY articles - carrera (996) - common fixes and repairs - thread Upgraded Ignition Switch/Lock Installation for 996/Boxster.

This particular DIY is detailed with many pics showing how to replace the steering lock. Anywway, here's my story of how I diagnosed and did a zero cost fix: ---

My recently acquired 97 boxster (40K miles) came with an ignition switch which was consistently notchy going from 0 to 1. A few times it would not budge. Jiggling the steering wheel and key became tiresome. Never saw any electronic misbehaviour.

First, I went under the dash and pulled the electric switch. Part number was 4A0 905 849 B and obviously had been replaced in the past.

With the electric switch disconnected the key still resisted going from 0 to 1, but only after the key was pulled out. If the key stayed in the tumbler there was no notchiness. I concluded that the steering lock disengagement was the culprit.

Next day I pulled the left side vent and instrument cluster to remove the steering lock. The instrument cluster took 10 minutes and fully exposed the work area - (hats off to those who succeeded thru the vent hole alone). Once the lock assembly was on the bench, why not take it apart before ordering a new one.

There is a square plate crimped in by the aluminum casting. It can be carefully pryed out to expose the steering lock disengagement cam.

With the tumbler and electric switch removed, using a screw driver to simulate the key and with one thumb standing in for the spring, I easily duplicated the original notchiness. Maybe it's no surprise with this mechanism's many rotational and longtudinal friction points, endless mechanical gyrations and tight tolerances.

I intended to remove the circlip from the tumbler end and strip out the locking plunger, thus leaving the car without steering lock. With encoded keys who needs the steering lock function?

However, laying down some molybdenum EP grease on the cam totally eliminated the notchiness. I then sprayed in some McLube (or use Jigaloo) and closed up the gizmo.

For now problem solved - cost zero. If it acts up again somewhere down the road, I'll pull the plunger.

Thank you xcbxer. I knew this problem as I experienced it was purely mechanical and past the switch and tumbler. Especially since it began again after sitting for 3 mo. and in gummy humidity. You saved me a lot of unnecessary expense.

[marbra]

I tried, but how does one get under the dash to change this switch out. you need to be VERY small.

[Rob175]

FYI....there are several You Tube videos of people changing the switch out. Some have worked from underneath while some have worked from above, by removing the left vent section.

[dghii]

Search for instructions on going through the drivers side air vent. Easy to remove and give you much easier access to the switch. You may still have to get to the switch to start getting one of the screws loose but most likely not.

Game changer!

[robdelorenzo]

Good thread. The issue that I am having is the “Kerchunk” when I pull out the key happens maybe 50% of the time without some help. Is this a problem with the mechanical key assembly or the $10.00 switch? Or both? Knowing these cars, I will guess that it’s not the $10.00 switch. I appreciate the clarity.

[pilot4fn]

Originally Posted by robdelorenzo

Good thread. The issue that I am having is the “Kerchunk” when I pull out the key happens maybe 50% of the time without some help. Is this a problem with the mechanical key assembly or the $10.00 switch? Or both? Knowing these cars, I will guess that it’s not the $10.00 switch. I appreciate the clarity.

Same kind issue - difficulty on removing the key - has been discussed here or UK's Boxa -forum and the reason has been the ignition switch. Yes, in some cases the key barrel / lock assembly.
Also in my car the key operation eased up as I did change the switch (to a new Audi part). I'd start with that to find a cure.

[robdelorenzo]

Thanks for that info. I didn’t know about the compatible Audi part. I haven’t gone all the way down this rabbit hole - yet. But I think I had better deal with it soon. I don’t want to be stranded somewhere and unable to start the car. Starting with the least expensive part is always the best bet.
The link above doesn’t seem to work for me.

[Stl-986]

Neither, it is the ignition lock.
https://rennlist.com/forums/boxster-and-boxster-s-986-forum/1290213-ignition-switch-cylinder-problem-change-key-cylinder.html