Wheel bearings...1 or 2?

[JFP in PA]

To be able to do both front and rear, and the hub extraction, you need the B90-P plus the B90-3 bracket (~$85) the B90-3J horseshoe adapter (~$35), which is one reasons why a "Master" kit starts to makes sense:

The B90-3 backet and "J" horseshoe adapter:



The basic B90-P:



The basic "Master Kit":

[gschotland]

What is required for the front only? The basic B90-P kit? I'm not sure I have the stomach to take on the rears.

How would you rate the level of difficult for each job? I can handle 3 wrenches (out of 5) and may be temped to try a 4. Playing around with the axle shafts makes me a bit nervous because if I screw them up replacement is big $.

[insite]

gary -

the rears really aren't much more difficult than the fronts. if you have the SIR tool & can do the fronts, you can do the rears. the trick to simplifying the rears is tooling related. if you have a base boxster, the axle bolts are shielded by the CV boots & are tough to get at. order a set of LONG hex sockets. you need a 6mm hex key socket that's about 5" long. i got mine from harbor freight. you also need a 32mm socket for the axle nut.

BTW, the SIR tool requirements are identical front to rear. in fact, the carriers are identical parts on the base boxster. the S uses a slightly larger bearing, but the standard SIR kit for the boxster will work fine on that as well.

if you do the rears, be sure to clean the axle bolts with brake cleaner & use some red loctite. the passenger side has a tendency to unscrew itself.

[JFP in PA]

Originally Posted by gschotland

What is required for the front only? The basic B90-P kit? I'm not sure I have the stomach to take on the rears.

How would you rate the level of difficult for each job? I can handle 3 wrenches (out of 5) and may be temped to try a 4. Playing around with the axle shafts makes me a bit nervous because if I screw them up replacement is big $.

As mentioned by others, there is not a lot of difference from the front to the rear other than the axles. To do either end, you need pretty much everything pictured, or you will need a slide hammer in place of the hub tooling (bracket and horseshoe).

As for difficulty, I don't find it difficult at all, but as I am equipped differently and do this for a living, perhaps that would be better answered by someone that has done it as a DIY..............

[jhandy]

To answer as someone who has done this in the past....
It is not hard at all. I took my suspension all the way apart which seems like more than you would have to do. For total disassemby and reassembly it took about 3-4 hours per corner.


Things that slowed me down.....
Not having a list of the torque values for all the bolts.
Complete metric sockets with up to 22mm.
Large metric allen wrenchs
Anti-seize compound for re-assembly
Lock-tight RED for the axle bolts.
Ball joint tool for the tie rods and bottom ball joint (you may not need this if you are not taking off the hub.
Caliper bolts